yeah ! I m thinking about just buying a smoke machine I found online for about 40 , I appreciate controlIssues sharing the homemade machine however , I just don't feel like putting one together if I can get it for around 40 or 50 ..also I forgot to mention I have NOT gotten any "Restricted performance " since I did this last work
new coil packs , rewiring IMT valves
appreciate all the help guys.

 

Are you talking about the threaded inserts as seen here:


(Image stolen from eBay)


If so, yeah, that's going to cause a problem. You'll probably be looking at a vacuum leak, which will cause a rough idle, amongst other problems.

Post #13 in this thread has an excellent description of how to check for vacuum leaks with propane while watching your scanner at idle:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...1/#post2194561


Did you have the battery disconnected when changing the coils? I ask because you mentioned the engine would not start until you sprayed the MAF sensor, followed by rough running and new fault codes. When the battery is disconnected, the computer discards any learned behavior (fuel trims, etc.) and reverts to default values. If this didn't happen (battery was connected the whole time), the poor computer may not have known what to do since so much on the engine had changed.

Are you getting any fault codes now?

And by the way, I'd like to extend a HUGE thanks for NOT changing the O2 sensors yet, like you had been considering. After this recent work, you had some new symptoms. Had you replaced the sensors at the same time, you may have been sidetracked now, wondering if they were causing the new issues.

 

I hope this doesn't offend..

I can only assume you attempted to tighten a bolt before they were all started by hand?

 

Kr98664 multa gracia ! , I had the battery disconnected all this time , charging it while I was doing the work and did not replaced any O2 sensors
those are the inserts that I messed up , both the top two towards the drivers side - I just purchased an smoke emissions diagnostics machine from ebay 65.00 total
I drove it yesterday no check engine lights so today I was so excited driving to work . the darn codes cameback ( same ones that I listed at the beginning of thread ) with the infamous " restricted performance"
car is hesitating at times now don't feel as much power as before !! so I definetly need to do the smoke test . thanks for the link I will look at that

and No offense Catfan01 I thank you for bringing that up .. problem is I overthighten them .. my screw up , I have tried epoxy , JBweld to glue them back in - no success
has anybody aver tried to repair/ reglue those inserts and did they use ?

 

Yep. I broke one, by putting the wrong bolt in the wrong hole. I've got a post around here somewhere on it. Will see if I can find it and edit a link. If memory serves, I used Harbor-Freight generic version of JB. (Epoxy)
If I recall, there are two such bolts - You'd better make sure you have those sorted or there is nothing you can use that will hold onto the inserts.

Here you go: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...itment-174932/

 

Ooh, sorry to hear that. On a related note, I just discovered somebody had recently hacked into my account and posted ridiculous advice using my name...

Sorry to hear the new coils didn't fix the original issue. I sure thought we were on to something. I'm not sure what to suggest next, and considering my recent track record, maybe I should not suggest anything.

If it's any consolation, installing those no name coils is no longer the biggest mistake you've ever made. That's been eclipsed by taking mechanical advice from some mouth-breathing stranger on the internet.

 

guys, i think the new coils are alot better than the other cheap one from ebay , I like to replace the inserts they are both kind of messed after using jb wed and epoxy on them . Anybody knows where i can get them besides dealer ??

on another note : i m thinking about testing the MAF unplug it while engine running and SEE the response ? also what are the two sensors attached to the throtlebody , one is the position sensor (top one) how about the other one is it the accselator sensor perhaps !!

 

The inserts are not available as separate parts; There were three different lower manifold units during the production life of the S-type. Mid production was part #XR854716, which is now discontinued. On the used market, this part typically runs $250-500. I did note one used part at a very economical price, which is listed here:

https://www.jagroverland.com/jaguar-...5488-xr832279/

You might want to verify which part is required for your car, as the parts are tied to VIN range:

Inlet Manifold Lower from L86902
1. Inlet Manifold
To VIN M45254 XR853369
VIN M45255 to VIN N52047 XR854716
From VIN N52048 C2C41691

Good luck getting this sorted.

 

thanks for the info. I m doing a smoke test this weekend that will determine if i need to order the part,
appreciate it

on another point ! I was trying to get an idea on the MAF operation so I unplugged it while the engine is running notice : a bit of change on the idling then went to plug it back in the car die !
is that perhaps a sign the MAF sensor may also be defective or getting there ?

 

Where are the two damaged inserts located? Are they adjacent to cylinders 1 and 3, the ones originally flagged for low power (misfire)?

Do you remember if the inserts were sticking up when you removed the plenum? I'm wondering if they had previously kept the plenum from sealing to the manifold, even more so than just not being able to torque those two bolts.

Can you please refresh my memory on the history of when the problem started? Was it right after you installed the eBay coils? Or had the problem been ongoing before that?

 

this car was in the garage for almost two years getting all kinds of work done such as : , head gasket, timing chains , oil pan gasket , water pump …..transmission oil , filter .. and much more items
last phase was spark plugs, coils , the inserts NOT tighten down right are on bolts 1,2 on the plenum opposite to cylinder 1,3 so they probably wouldn't be that cause .

 

Has the car run well at any time since all this engine work? How about before all that work? Just thinking out loud, wondering if something wasn't properly reassembled. It may be time for some basic diagnostics, such as a compression test.

How much have you driven the car after the repairs? I wonder if a valve or piston ring is partially stuck due to all that inactivity.

Next time you have access on the difficult side of the engine, I'd suggest swapping injectors with the other side. If the misfire (low power) codes follow, then you'd know those injectors were bad.

 

great advise KR98664,

I wish i had thought of swapping the injectors when i did the new coils ! and after reassembling the car back - it has always had issues although recently after i got the new COILS car ran pretty good for a day or so then all the bad stuff cameback codes and restricted perf.. !
I really have not driven the car that much for that reason ever . guess I m planning on doing the smoke test this weekend hopefully that will give me an idea whats next ??
oh yea ! I m considering a compression test if it doesnt get better .

 

SO I've done the smoke test this morning and the only bit of smoke was behind IMT valves at button of them litle bit NOT that much smoke , NO SMOKE at all over by bolts 1.2 on the plenum which are the ones where the inserts are not seated right kind of loose ! them I after putting everything back I ran the engine old codes came back
. SO what Next ?
should I be doing a compression test first before swapping injectors ??

 

IMHO...

I'd do a compression test on all the cylinders on bank one and two.. It's going to be hard to determine if the misfire codes are causing your AF ratio codes or vise versa until we determine good compression on all the cylinders.

Kinda odd that you would have lean codes along with misfires...I would think that would tend to set P0172/174 codes

 

You must still have the adrenaline rush going from UK-Auburn game. P0174 IS a lean code. And remember, the sensors are measuring oxygen. So when a misfire occurs, unburned oxygen passes through to the cats and sensors. They don't give anymore thought to unburned fuel in the exhaust than Ashton Hagans does to jacking up 3's (that he can't hit) at critical points in the game! So a misfire is prone to trigger a lean code, all else being fine, because despite how much fuel may be in the exhaust......there's too much oxy in there, dangit!

 

That's way too much smoke. There needs to be none.

A tiny tiny tiny leak will throw the trims. Much more and you'll get one or more lean codes.

 

I think you meant P0175 not P0174, and no - a leak or misfires give lean codes because there's too much O2 (quickly tweaked by adding fuel but too much of a tweak needed and a lean code flags).

 

so test drove the car to the gym this morning : on my way there car drove pretty nice , felt no hesitation , good power NO check engine all, idling pretty smooth at stops too , be honest I felt pretty encourage !
on the other hand : on my way back check engine light came back even "restricted performance " momentarily .. so I pulled into driveway pulled the following codes AGAIN

oh yea ! before I forget to mention. last night I sprayed some MAF sensor cleaner on the sensor I think it made a difference !!

P0174 system too lean bank 2
P0300 random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0303 cylinder 3 misfire detected
P1316 misfire rate above limit

maybe I should another smoke test to get a better idea where I have a small leak ? also Am I wrong by being hopeful that cylinders may have good compression given that the car drives at times pretty good , good power , idling pretty smooth ? how can I Be dealing with bad compression if that is the case ??
And any chance a new MAF sensor (which I ordered ) may help at all?

 

These cars tend not to have compression problems, whereas air leaks (such as old IMT valve O-rings) or failing coils are common.