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S Type charging port

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  #21  
Old 08-09-2015, 06:08 PM
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Chassis. Spare tyre (tire) securing bolt is good. (See handbook / workshop manual.)
 
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  #22  
Old 08-10-2015, 11:57 AM
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Hook your ground lead to a solid part of the chassis. Not any moving part or other wires. You don't want to accidentally feed back thru who knows what and let the smoke out.
 
  #23  
Old 07-22-2017, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Having read a few posts like:

"Help my batteries flat and the trunk is locked and I cannot get into it..............".

I went looking at our "newish" 01 S type 3ltr SE today. I am familiar with the +ve posts under the bonnet/hood/place where engine lives, of the X300, BUT, no such delights on the S.

Sooooo, in the engine bay fuse compartment are numerous "not used" positions, HOWEVER, these positions have a single male spade post standing proud. Thoughts abound, so probed with the trusty DCM, car keys IN MY POCKET, and surprise, surprise, they are 12v HOT, SWEET.

Made up a simple wire with an insulated spade on one end, and suitable adaptor on the other end (that will be your sorting based on the battery charger you have), and connected the battery charger, began charging merrily.

Now, based on that if you got a flat battery, and for some reason cannot get into the boot/trunk/rear compartment, a 12V supplied via these terminal will "power up" the car for access purposes etc.

Also a good point to charge the battery without messing with the stuff at the rear.

YOU CANNOT JUMP START VIA THESE, THE WIRES ARE TOOOOOOO SMALL.

Photo shows the wire I made attached, and the other 2 terminals are also 12V HOT, so you do have a choice of 3.



Attachment 29041
I have to say a big thank you to Grant for helping gain access to my boot this morning, you saved me an awful lot of mucking about and by using your technique getting in was a sinch, So, Many Thanks mate, very much appreciated.
 
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  #24  
Old 09-04-2017, 02:40 PM
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I foolishly ran my battery dead and had parked my Jag in my garage where the trunk access was blocked. I thought no problem, I'll just put the car in neutral and push it forward enough so I could open the trunk and get access to the battery. No go, I can't shift the transmission into neutral with the battery dead. Then I went this posting and found the solution. Many thanks ! I love this forum !
 
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2019, 12:22 PM
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Cant turn the wheel to reach it since the car won't start.
 
  #26  
Old 08-07-2019, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by EfficientLifeChurch
Cant turn the wheel to reach it since the car won't start.
then remove the wheel.
 
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  #27  
Old 08-07-2019, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Datsports
then remove the wheel.
Good idea. Maybe I'll call AAA, let them deal with it, rather than risk blowing up my fuse box. Or is the fuse box thing not really risky like the dealership is telling me? I'm thinking if I find any positive terminal anywhere it should work, at least just to pop the trunk. If I hit a negative terminal, of course, I get big sparks. But I'm planning to do exactly what the photo shows. Also, I could put a 10 amp fuse in between?
 

Last edited by EfficientLifeChurch; 08-07-2019 at 05:12 AM.
  #28  
Old 08-26-2019, 04:33 PM
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Doesn't work on my car that has the positive cable removed. Maybe this works for a dead battery. But not a disconnected one! Nothing has worked. ,Major waste of time.
 

Last edited by EfficientLifeChurch; 08-26-2019 at 04:40 PM.
  #29  
Old 08-26-2019, 04:37 PM
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Spare tire bolt. Right
 
  #30  
Old 03-02-2022, 09:28 AM
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Yes you bring up a very good point! Any of these AUX points should only be used to open the trunk and/or the door. NEVER to jump start the car.
Once the trunk is open then attach your jumper cables to the battery and try to start the car.

How did the battery cable get unhooked inside a closed trunk?
Or did the trunk lid get shut accidentally while you had the battery unhooked?
.
.
.
 
  #31  
Old 03-02-2022, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Or did the trunk lid get shut accidentally while you had the battery unhooked?
So many tales of woe about being locked out of the trunk after disconnecting the battery! Several things I always do now to make sure it doesn't happen to me:

1) Check the key still works to unlock the driver's door AND manually open the trunk lid.
2) Lower the driver's window to make sure I have access to the cabin.
3) Before disconnecting the battery, I pull the T-handles to unlock the rear seat backs. That way, if all goes to pieces, such as leaving the keys in the trunk, I can still fold the seat forward for access.

Something I've toyed around with is connecting a light rope to the emergency release handle inside the trunk lid. I'd run the rope forward and sticking out just a little from the rear seat. In a pinch, I could pull the rope to open the trunk. I'd tape the rope in place or lightly secure it somehow so it's out of the way until needed.




 
  #32  
Old 03-02-2022, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Yes you bring up a very good point! Any of these AUX points should only be used to open the trunk and/or the door. NEVER to jump start the car.
Once the trunk is open then attach your jumper cables to the battery and try to start the car.

How did the battery cable get unhooked inside a closed trunk?
Or did the trunk lid get shut accidentally while you had the battery unhooked?
.
.
.
Easy to happen. If you leave the connection off overnight for a hard reset and close the trunk so no one steals from your truck overnight.
 
  #33  
Old 03-03-2022, 08:32 AM
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Oh that would be a problem. I work inside my shop so no worries about theft.
Maybe Karl's idea of a hidden rope release would work?
.
.
.
 
  #34  
Old 03-27-2022, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by EfficientLifeChurch
Easy to happen. If you leave the connection off overnight for a hard reset and close the trunk so no one steals from your truck overnight.
Squirt lots of WD40 into the lock and try to open with the key again?
Keep working the key backwards and forwards until the lock frees off.
 
  #35  
Old 03-28-2022, 02:09 AM
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Avoid WD40!

It attracts dust & dirt, making the problem worse over time.

Use what locksmiths use - graphite - if you must use anything.
 
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  #36  
Old 03-30-2022, 02:22 PM
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Graphite won't free a rusty lock. Thought it may have prevented a seized lock if it had been used beforehand.
 
  #37  
Old 03-30-2022, 02:48 PM
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WD40 won't fix rust.

You'll need to dissolve it (probably don't try that on a lock) or movement / abrasion.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 03-30-2022 at 02:51 PM.
  #38  
Old 03-31-2022, 08:18 AM
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WD-40 eventually reduces to a gummy, sticky mess. A locksmith friend hates it...

The trunk locks, being more or less hidden on a somewhat protected spot in the license plate recess usually end up with road grit in them that was carried in water that sprayed up when driving. This sometimes causes the key to be less than fully seated in the lock when inserted. Electrical contact cleaner can sometimes clear the passage and allow the key to function normally.
 
  #39  
Old 04-02-2022, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
WD40 won't fix rust.

You'll need to dissolve it (probably don't try that on a lock) or movement / abrasion.
Syringe the lock with vinegar?
 
  #40  
Old 04-03-2022, 09:06 AM
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I wouldn't but if you do please report back!
 


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