The bracket bolts were accessed, but the torque and muscle required to turn them seemed far too excessive, so I aborted the mission and tightened back up. Wondering if any weight release may take pressure off of the bolts, or is this a pure muscle job? I was working from underneath, using a box end and all the muscle I had just to move, even with a good soaking of thread lube. Appreciate any ideas before I try again.

 

I am assuming the front "D" mount rubbers. The ones that pound out regularly??.

I did both of ours from the top, and YES, that damn heater tap needs to come off to access the RH bracket bolts.

Ours were tight, but a standard ring spanner (box wrench in some languages) did the task easily.

The Black car came into the range of the TSB about wrong saddle clamps (Mustang units by mistake), and had not been done, so I found some here at a wreckers, and job done.

 

Grant: Thanks. Never had done before, so leary abouut approach. I think doing work from top more logical, with proper extenders. Agree the passenger side SBB cannot be accessed unless small distribution box moved out of the way. For those that anticipate alleviation of the front end clunk, purchase the proper bracket and replace rubber bushing. If bracket is not the proper one, the new rubber bushing will quickly wear it out and the clunk will return. Stan

 

Just don't twist the bolts off if they are rusted!

Maybe do some long term soaking to try and free them up? I have seen several that were just rusted solid and no amount of soaking would work.
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