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I'm having really tough time finding a bumper and grill and to have them ship it to me.
I found a few black ones but none of them are willing to ship it.
If there is anyone that can help me out with this that would be wonderful..
Some updates, got the interior wrapped up and car runs and drives now.
Finished vacuuming, and shampooed the carpets and vacuumed one more time. I'd say its clean now.
Replaced the hood latch. Thing was really difficult to push it through the firewall. Ended up making a small cut on the firewall boot and lots of lube and it went through.
Interior is all done, I cleaned the seats as well. No more mold, I let them soak in vinegar overnight to kill all the molds.
Reat seats. Also eliminated all the odor and car smells and feels fresh inside.
However there still are some moisture inside and I still have not found the source of leak.
The leak comes down the passenger side C pillar and drains down the rear seat into the carpet.
Not sure where it is coming from...
Got the rear bumper off, replaced both fenders and side skirts. Few clips for the side skirt broke so gonna have to source them.
Not sure from where though.
Now this, radiator hose, Why is it here? Thing is located behind the bumper and core support, and there is no way to put
any tools in there to get that clamp off!! I ended up taking the front bumper and passenger side headlight and still no access.
Took me like an hour to get that off and new hose in.
But after new hose and few bleeder hoses replaced, car has no leak now. Cooling system builds pressure and heater blows hot.
Ordered the headlight adjuster repair kit.. Also bought front grill and bumper, paid over a grand because of the shipping fee.
For god's sake could not find one locally and nobody were willing to ship it, had to persuade this guy to have their bumper shipped to me..
It's coming in a wooden pallet at least..
Replaced the belts, no more squeeking noise and car is very quiet now. These belts were real pita to replace because those tensioner
pulleys... Hard to slide in and out the belts.
Also got alignment done and car drives straight and all the alignment values fit into stock values. Nothing bent, which is great to hear.
Also tranny is flushed and filter is replaced. Those pan bolts kept breaking my t27 bits, even my snap on one.. but now its replaced and has redline fluid in it..
Shifts really smooth..
Car is getting closer to being able to drive on street.
Just gotta fix
-headlight sag
-Front bumper, rear bumper, front grill (and rear parking sensors)
-Engine tune up (CCV is causing a slight vacuum leak, need plugs changed)
-Rear control arm bushings (This will probably have to come later, theyre worn, but will drive for now. I'm already over $7000 into this car so gotta take it easy )
-steering wheel (good condition one coming in mail)
I'm having really tough time finding a bumper and grill and to have them ship it to me.
I found a few black ones but none of them are willing to ship it.
If there is anyone that can help me out with this that would be wonderful..
Keep an eye on uk ebay. The str grilles come up fairly often but you might have to get the painted rim repainted in correct colour.
Your interior leak is likely caused by one or more clogged moonroof drains. When they become clogged, rainwater tends to run down the side pillars inside the cabin and collects underneath the rear floorboard carpets. You must drop the headliner a bit in order to get to the drain nozzle attachments on the bottom of the moonroof pan. You then unplug the 4 black rubber hoses from their nozzles and blow them out with compressed air. I have had to do this twice to my 2005 S-Type 3.0 in a little more than 9 years of ownership. After clearing the drains, I always set one of our high-powered dog hair dryers in the rear floorboard area for 4 to 6 hours to fully dry out the carpets. Opening all of the windows helps to speed up the process, and so does doing it on a bright, sunny day....
Your interior leak is likely caused by one or more clogged moonroof drains. When they become clogged, rainwater tends to run down the side pillars inside the cabin and collects underneath the rear floorboard carpets. You must drop the headliner a bit in order to get to the drain nozzle attachments on the bottom of the moonroof pan. You then unplug the 4 black rubber hoses from their nozzles and blow them out with compressed air. I have had to do this twice to my 2005 S-Type 3.0 in a little more than 9 years of ownership. After clearing the drains, I always set one of our high-powered dog hair dryers in the rear floorboard area for 4 to 6 hours to fully dry out the carpets. Opening all of the windows helps to speed up the process, and so does doing it on a bright, sunny day....
Thank you very much, that's what I was assuming as well, just didn't know where the moonroof drains are located.
So did you remove the headliner from the moonroof area or from the back of the car?
I dropped the headliner a few inches on both sides of the car near the moonroof drains location. The upper-adjustment seat belt assembly bolts have to come out, the sun visors have to come off, and some of the interior trim at the pillars has to be pried back as well....
I have posted a description on how I went about doing this job somewhere here in the S-Type section. I think I first had to do it in September 2012 or 2013. I think I last had to do it in April 2017. Try using "getting to the moonroof drain nozzles" as your search phrase and you should be able to locate my thread fairly quickly....
Reading that you're almost ready to take it on the road properly I was wondering if the paint is generally ok?
Or will you just roll the polishing mop over it?
Reading that you're almost ready to take it on the road properly I was wondering if the paint is generally ok?
Or will you just roll the polishing mop over it?
Paint is actually in great shape, car stayed in Oregon and Washington it's whole life, clear coat is still top notch condition. I'll prob just wash it and hit it with compound and call it good.
I dropped the headliner a few inches on both sides of the car near the moonroof drains location. The upper-adjustment seat belt assembly bolts have to come out, the sun visors have to come off, and some of the interior trim at the pillars has to be pried back as well....
I have posted a description on how I went about doing this job somewhere here in the S-Type section. I think I first had to do it in September 2012 or 2013. I think I last had to do it in April 2017. Try using "getting to the moonroof drain nozzles" as your search phrase and you should be able to locate my thread fairly quickly....
Paint is actually in great shape, car stayed in Oregon and Washington it's whole life, clear coat is still top notch condition. I'll prob just wash it and hit it with compound and call it good.
Few more updates..
I finally decided to fix the water leak. I wanted it to sit out in the rain by its own without getting water in the car.
I actually didn't have to remove the headliner, I undid the door seal on rear passenger side, then from the roof I pulled down the headliner with hand just a bit and through the gap I was able to reach in then pull out the rubber moon roof drain hose.
That was the easy part.
After that I let compressed air go through but didn't do anything. Air came right back out. It was completely 100% clogged.
I twisted long piece of safety wire and fed it through, after multiple trys with silicon lube, it finally went through and hit something.
It did get some dirt and a small rock piece out of the tube (How did a rock get in there?!?!)
However I noticed there was a kink in the line. The kink was from where the tube exits the trunk and enters the rear bumper.
This kink wasn't allowing water to exit either.
I ended up taking out one of the factory drain spots.
This rubber plug is at the right rear of the trunk. Underneath is the heat shield from the muffler.
I ended up drilling a hole through the rubber drain seal and let the moonroof drain exit there. No kink.
Tada. Then after I let it sit outside overnight in very heavy Seattle rain, came back next day to a clean dry interior.
Now, got the headlights out, brought it home to 'therapy repair' on break time, turned out 3 hour night mare.
There is the broken adjuster.
I bought the repair kit on ebay for $55. Turns out I only need 2 out of 10 some pieces it came with. Whoever wants the rest, I'll give it to you for free lol
Taking out the adjuster motor was really difficult. The way it slides out of the pivot point was just nearly impossible to get it out.
I found this job harder than reassembling the head on quad vanos v8 bmw lol.
The steps are simple, just actually executing them is so difficult. But after 3 some hours of grunting and swearing.. ...........
Tada..
I was surprised how durable all the plastic pieces were on the overall headlight assembly. (Obviously except for the adjuster pin haha)
Anyways.. Now that headlights are done.. (Just gotta put sealant around and put the glass cover back )
It's time to fix the front end. New bumper, new grill, and new hood..
I always wondered how this rebuild turned out. Did you finish it? Is it still running? I'm in the process of fixing up a few problems with mine and found some parallels here. I hope all is well.
I always wondered how this rebuild turned out. Did you finish it? Is it still running? I'm in the process of fixing up a few problems with mine and found some parallels here. I hope all is well.
The OP has not posted in over two years, so the end result may well remain a mystery...
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