Hello,



I would like to explain my problem with a 2000.5 Jaguar S-Type V6 3.0:

I have had it for four years and a few months ago, the accessory belt (new) jumped off the tensioner. There was no suspicious noise, but after checking, I found that it had loosened by 3 to 4 cm after a few months of use, so I thought that was the problem. I installed a new belt, which is properly tensioned, but I noticed that at the tensioner pulley, it shifts 3 to 5 mm toward the inside of the engine.



The tensioner is new; I even have two of them. The tensioner installed before purchase reduces the offset (it is installed on models between 1999 and 2000 and a few others). So I replaced it with the same one, but I didn't know it was the wrong one. With the “right” tensioner, the offset is even more terrifying.



So the problem is not with the belt or the tensioner.



I checked all the pulleys; they are fixed and not warped.

I don't hear any unusual noises.



I've read through quite a few discussions: broken bearings, crankshaft pulley mounted upside down, pulley misalignment...



Do you have any ideas or have you seen similar cases?



Kind regards

 

I have no knowledge of the of the 2000.5 model, my S-types are from 2 facelifts later...

But to answer your question just by thinking logically: ALL pulleys (idler pulleys and all other pulleys) obviously need to be on the "same level".
Did you have a proper look, if the tensioner pulley is the only pulley, of which the drive belt wants to "jump off"? If, yes, the fault is with that tensioner.
Are you absolutely sure that the routing of the belt is correct? Better find a picture, which shows you, how the routing should be.
Once I managed to install the drive belt on an X-Type incorrectly - it seems logical, but close to the tensioner it was wrong, and it was squeaking like mad, as the belt had a touch condition with itself on another section....
Also confirm that you mounted the tensioner correctly. Any chance that you mounted it up-side down or something like that? That would be the most logical explanation of a tensioner being utterly misaligned...

 

Thanks for your reply.



That's true, but I don't have a laser measuring tool to check that the pulleys are on the same plane.



It came off the tensioner pulley, and when it jumped, it was partially cut by the crankshaft pulley, so I assume it came off either the tensioner pulley or the crankshaft pulley.



The belt path is correct; I have access to the workshop documents. I assembled and disassembled the whole thing several times to be sure, but nothing.



The tensioner is properly seated in its location, with both lugs in the holes. Both tensioners have the same angle when assembled.



It could be the idler pulley bearing, but I don't know how the belt would behave in that case.



Best regards

 

> It could be the idler pulley bearing, but I don't know how the belt would behave in that case.

That's a good point. Normally, if the bearings of the idler pulleys (one of them is in the tensioner) are on their way out, they squeak like mad - similar to a squeaking belt.
And the next step would be that those bearings "disintegrate" (I have seen that on other bearings, but never let it happen to those bearings). If a bearing is in such a bad state, the pully would/could wobble around all over the place and obviously very easily throw off the belt.
I don't know exactly, if the pulley/bearing of the tensioner could be replaced separately without replacing the whole tensioner on the S-Type (I have done a idler pulley replacement on the X-Type), but didn't you just put a new tensioner in? What about all other pulleys (idlers and others): With the belt off, did you manually rotate each an every one to check, if they all turn smoothly without wobble? Did you try to push and pull on every pulley manually, to check if there is anywhere "movement", which should not be there?

 

For the idler pulley, I was referring to pulley no. 1 on the diagram, which I have never touched.


I heard that there was a shim for the crankshaft pulley; as the offset is towards the inside of the engine, the absence of a shim could explain the offset, which makes sense in any case. I have no idea if there is a shim on this model, and removing the pulley is a lot of work... I wouldn't be surprised, as I've had some surprises during the renovation.



I'll remove the belt this afternoon to check the pulleys, and I'll get back to you this evening.

 

Okay, I tested all the pulleys:



At first, pulley no. 3 was slightly loose and wobbly. I tightened it and that fixed the problem, but it doesn't turn like the others; it's slightly braked, as if it needed a little more force.



I also noticed that the power steering pulley is slightly warped. I tried tightening it, but that didn't change much.



All the other pulleys seem OK to me.



The belt now only protrudes by 2 mm, but that may be due to the good weather. It protruded by 3 to 5 mm when it was raining.

I didn't express myself clearly. The belt is not centered on the tensioner pulley at all. It protrudes 2 mm from the pulley, but that means the offset is close to 1 cm.

 

If it is stiff to turn then the bearing on pulley no.3 may be dry and partially seized. But that may not be your only problem.
I suggest you get a long steel straight edge ruler to see if each pulley lines up with the others. Check all the pulleys. When you find a pulley that is only in contact with the steel rule on one side, you have found your culprit.

 

If you need to remove the crankshaft pulley, it wasn’t too difficult to do. Here’s my experience:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...cement-278413/


I don’t remember any shims, but perhaps they are there and stayed put against the crankshaft so I didn’t notice them.


Edit:

Not seeing any shim in this parts diagram:

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/




Item #4 is the seal. #3 is the timing chain sprocket.

 

I had to change my crankshaft pulley a while back. As KR says, it’s not too difficult, if you have a small three leg puller, a breaker bar and socket for the bolt. The puller goes on the INSIDE of the pulley. If you use it on the outside you ruin the rubber bond on the pulley. New pulley can be got by finding the Ford Lincoln LS equivalent. It is identical to the unobtainable Jaguar part.

 

> At first, pulley no. 3 was slightly loose and wobbly. I tightened it and that fixed the problem, but it doesn't turn like the others; it's slightly braked, as if it needed a little more force.
As Sportston already mentioned: That sounds like a buggered bearing.

> The belt is not centered on the tensioner pulley at all. It protrudes 2 mm from the pulley, but that means the offset is close to 1 cm.
That does not sound right to me. - Apart from that: How is the pulley on the tensioner doing? On the X-Type I swapped the pulley of the tensioner without having to buy an all new pulley. Note that (at least on the X-Type) the bolt holding the pulley was a "wrong way thread", i.e. turn clockwise to open. Is there any chance that the pulley in the tensioner is not symmetrical? Is it possible that the pulley sits in the tensioner the wrong way 'round and that therefore it's located too much to the front or back and the belt is offset? Or is there any chance that it is simply the wrong pulley in the tensioner or the wrong tensioner altogether?

> I also noticed that the power steering pulley is slightly warped.
That, too, does not sound too good. Depending on who bad this is, this may also have to be fixed/swapped.

 

Hello,

I’m back with news :

Below is my tensioner pulley




Pulley n°4 and pulley n°5, seem to be OK



Pulley n°1 and pulley n°8, seem to be OK




Pulley n°3 and pulley n°4, seem to be OK



Pulley n°4 and pulley n°6, issue here


Pulley n°7 and pulley n°6, issue here

Pulley no. 4 is slightly warped but it is straight in relation to no. 3, which is not warped, and it is also OK in relation to no. 5.



The suspects are pulley no. 6 (tensioner) and pulley no. 7 (crankshaft pulley).

But perhaps I should test between no. 7 and 1, 2 and 8.

What do you think about?


Kind regards

 

From looking at your pictures, it appears the tensioner pulley is not in line with the other pulleys. Either it is the wrong tensioner, or it has been incorrectly assembled/installed.

 

it looks to me like that car has the wrong tensioner on it. another thing to check would be the harmonic balancer isn't disintegrating. the crank pulley on a lot of car has a rubber layer in it .... and will disintegrate in time.

seeya
Shane L.

 

I agree with Sportston and Double C: Wrong tensioner or incorrectly installed. And check if the harmonic balancer isn't falling apart: Generally those balancers are not one solid metal part/pulley, but it's actually 2 parts (hard soo see, if you do not know) - an inner and an outer part, only connected by a layer of rubber inbetween those two.- thus, theoretically the 2 parts of that one balancer could have shifted in relation to each other...

Double C: reg. your footnote:
Are you sure your '63 Citroen was build in "Hiedleburg Australia"? I suspect that this should read Heidelberg, Australia - named after a big city in Germany with the same name...

 

On the right, the wrong tensioner, which was installed on car, the right one is on left.
I got them both from an indepedant jaguar specialist. However; the right one is aftermarket and doesn’t look like the OEM one on a video i found.. Pulley looks like smaller.




On the video I found :



Where the tensioner seats :



Also, I noticed something on water pump pulley (2) : if you watch it carefully, you can see the belt deflecting slightly all around the pulley.




It’s really hard to inspect the crankshaft pulley, nothing special about outer and inner

 

Have you tried fitting the correct tensioner yet?

 

Yes, I already tried to install the right one, but it’s the same.

 

Hmmm. Forgive me for checking the obvious; but have you lined up the two pins with the two holes on the tensioner mounting? Failure to do so would cause the whole assembly to sit several millimetres out of line.
Also, do you still have the original tensioner still? If so, have you tried fitting it back on?

 

Yep, both lugs are in the holes

The original tensioner was already the wrong one, I thought it was the correct one, that’s why I bought a new one. I bought the correct one after.

 

There is still a possibility that the tensioner, which you think is now the right one, just is not the right one.
I might get wrong information on my computer, but what I seemed to have just found is:
You URO part number is 24305 - however:

The URO Parts tensioner with part number URO-010743 (also listed as URO010743) is the aftermarket replacement for the Jaguar accessory drive belt tensioner, corresponding to OEM part numbers such as C2S45579.

C2S45579 seems to the the correct Jag.-P/N to me, which seems to equate to URO-010743, but you seem to have 24305

PS:
I just confirmed that C2S45579 is the Jag-P/N of your tensioner:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...tensioner.html
https://britcar.com/search.php?query...t=&xPerPage=10

So, try to find out, if your 24305 is supposed to be the same as C2S45579 - it looks similar, but looks can be deceiving...