hey all. my wife had her 02 S-type out today when it stalled on her. re-started OK and she made it to her destination where she texted me about it. I was just leaving work and met her there to swap cars. when I went to start it, it turned over for just a second then stalled. then started fine and drove home fine. came home, grabbed my code reader and it cranked but wouldn't start to read the codes. tried again and it started (no codes other than p0420 i've been throwing for a while which is CATS and should not cause stalling). thinking might be fuel pressure/pump. when you start the car, it will idle in the garage and then after about 1-2mins, it shudders a bit for about a minute, then settles out and we're off with no problems. this has been going on for a while. would that be a consistent symptom if there are fuel pressure issues? any other thoughts? thanks for your help.

 

Need not be fuel pressure but changing the filter is cheap and easy - well worth doing if you don't know its condition.

Like any code, P0420 is a clue/hint. Something's wrong and has been narrowed down to probably the items Jaguar listed for that code. Best place to start is that list.

An example: if an O2 sensor is plausibly working (so not shorted etc) but misleading the PCM it may throw a code that hints elsewhere. Meanwhile the fuelling's wrong and a stall could occur. Similarly with an air leak.

A failing battery can cause a stall, too.

So, things to do:
1. consider your battery's age and how likely it may be on its way out
2. read the Jag info about that code. Ignore non-jag stuff.
3. look at the freeze frame data
4. check that all monitors Complete (aka set) (if you have P1111 then they have)
5. check LTFT (long term fuel trims) at idle and about 2500rpm

Post data if you find something wrong.

 

thanks jagv8. with my limited automotive savvy, i believe i'll let a good Jaguar shop have a look. This at least gives me enough to understand where to ask them to start looking and have some clue what they are telling me when they report back. been chasing this rabbitt for a while now and thought we had it, but it just reared it's ugly head again. btw...if it helps. new battery inside of 12 months ago as well as o2 sensors (in a hopeful bid to deal with the 420 code that didn't pan out)

 

My 00 S had a idling issue, and turned out to be a bad rubber elbow that caused a vacuum leak. My jag guy said it was under the manifold and had to pull it to get to this $1 piece of rubber. However, it was a good time to change the water pump and she has been idling without issue ever since...

 

I bought a 2003 Jaguar S type 4.0 with 102k miles. After it warms up while driving it suddenly stalls and after I stop and turn ignition off and back on, it will drive for a few minutes then does thesame thing again with traction light flashing(I scanned it but no codes was found). The car will not go past 3000rpm once this happens.
Please help before I start to change every part in the book.
Thanks.

 

Your engine will not go past 3000rpm is a good indication you are in restrictive performance. If your OBDII scanner is not able to read a code you need to take the car to AutoZone, PepBoys or a shop nearby and get them to read the codes and see what is going on.

I should note not all places can read ABS & Transmission codes.

 

Are you 100% sure which light is flashing and that it's the trans light? Because the usual light is the MIL and flashing means serious misfires which are causing catalyst damage right then. The car tries to protect the cats and reduces power to do it. Usually on a 4.0 it will be one or more failed/failing coils. Do some reading of existing threads - ignore those for the 3.0 but 4.2/4.0 are essentially the same in this regard.

Commonly #7 or #8 coil (but check) and often water/oil/dirt but can just be age (heat).

 

catalytic converters, if fouled up enough with fuel, CAN cause stalling if the exhaust pressure is increased from the damage. My guess is bank 1 (passenger) is toast. My mom's lincoln LS did the same thing, same side. I did a bolt-on part, not welded, and did the work myself for under $200.

 

That's a great price!

 

$200 for new cats? Dang, that's a nice price.

 

I meant the traction light(not trans). Thanks.

 

In that case there could be codes stored but they will be in the module for that, which generic OBD tools won't read. Dealer-type tool needed.