tapping noise after oil change
Wait a minute. Back to the a/c. There was thread a while back that discussed a tapping noise inside the car related to a/c...solenoid perhaps? Anyone here remember the thread form late summer or thereabouts 2010?
What color is the oil on the dipstick. Any bubbling in the radiator header tank? If you take off the oil filler cap, are there puffs of smoke blowing out? Is there greyish residue on the inside of the oil filler cap?
Smoke is not good. You had better make sure that the dealer fixes it before any warranty period is up. Start with a registered letter stating your concerns. Not a phone call, not a visit, a registered letter. That get's you on record as to the date that you reported the problems.
Hey people, this is serious. The OP JUST TOOK DELIVERY on this car according to the opening message.
Ok, what colour is the smoke, and how much. At idle or at speed? Only when cold? Picture?
What color is the oil on the dipstick. Any bubbling in the radiator header tank? If you take off the oil filler cap, are there puffs of smoke blowing out? Is there greyish residue on the inside of the oil filler cap?
Smoke is not good. You had better make sure that the dealer fixes it before any warranty period is up. Start with a registered letter stating your concerns. Not a phone call, not a visit, a registered letter. That get's you on record as to the date that you reported the problems.
Hey people, this is serious. The OP JUST TOOK DELIVERY on this car according to the opening message.
What color is the oil on the dipstick. Any bubbling in the radiator header tank? If you take off the oil filler cap, are there puffs of smoke blowing out? Is there greyish residue on the inside of the oil filler cap?
Smoke is not good. You had better make sure that the dealer fixes it before any warranty period is up. Start with a registered letter stating your concerns. Not a phone call, not a visit, a registered letter. That get's you on record as to the date that you reported the problems.
Hey people, this is serious. The OP JUST TOOK DELIVERY on this car according to the opening message.
Correct bought it at a BMW dealer not a jag dealer.
I took the jag to the shop today, told him about my concern and he checked it out. He didn't find any thing wrong but suggested that I run through the tank of gas and put in premuim, run it through and it should go away. I guess the sales man at the dealer went the cheap route when filling it up for me. as for the breaks and the noise in the dash maybe Im just noticing every little thing after I started hearing the engine knock. But I hope I didn't ruin anything behind the wheels but I don't see how I could have because that spot seemed like a tough and sturdy place to put the jack stands. But just to be safe and protect my car I will not do that again. I'll probably switch to ramps.
I decided to take a look at the spark plugs and found a big surprise. the spark plugs where so damn bad they are completly covered in what looks almost like rust or some thing had like a brownish dark burgandy color. all plugs are like this but one seems like it had oil on it the whole tip is covered the center electrode, every thing Im pretty sure that the check engine light would start throwing missfiring codes but for some reason it hasn't. the same thing with the oil pressure, the light didn't pop up when I was running on 4 quarts of oil Wich has me thinking some thing is wrong with the computer maybe? All dash lights do come on when the car is turned on.
Last edited by DavidRey; Apr 2, 2011 at 07:31 PM.
I decided to take a look at the spark plugs and found a big surprise. the spark plugs where so damn bad they are completly covered in what looks almost like rust or some thing had like a brownish dark burgandy color. all plugs are like this but one seems like it had oil on it the whole tip is covered the center electrode, every thing Im pretty sure that the check engine light would start throwing missfiring codes but for some reason it hasn't. the same thing with the oil pressure, the light didn't pop up when I was running on 4 quarts of oil Wich has me thinking some thing is wrong with the computer maybe? All dash lights do come on when the car is turned on.
But, the gaps are HUGE -- unless it is an optical illusion.
suggestion:
1. clean out the sparkplug wells
2. install new properly gapped plugs
Then, if the car can survive a longer drive, warm it up well to evaporate any condensation out of the exhaust system and see if the white smoke is still present. If it is, it could be a head gasket problem.
Last edited by plums; Apr 2, 2011 at 10:05 PM.
The coloration on the center insulator is pretty normal.
But, the gaps are HUGE -- unless it is an optical illusion.
suggestion:
1. clean out the sparkplug wells
2. install new properly gapped plugs
Then, if the car can survive a longer drive, warm it up well to evaporate any condensation out of the exhaust system and see if the white smoke is still present. If it is, it could be a head gasket problem.
But, the gaps are HUGE -- unless it is an optical illusion.
suggestion:
1. clean out the sparkplug wells
2. install new properly gapped plugs
Then, if the car can survive a longer drive, warm it up well to evaporate any condensation out of the exhaust system and see if the white smoke is still present. If it is, it could be a head gasket problem.
JoycesJag is the expert on that one. (or is that the X?). There is probably a stickied thread at the top or in the FAQ.
You have to use a very small screw-driver or similar object (I had success with a nail-set) to push inward on the outer plastic ring where the tube penetrates the aluminum. You might think it is extra-difficult because you can hardly see it or access it....but that's only the half of it....it's still a B even if you get it out on the bench with good light and good access.
Still, I do have to admit that they reconnect quickly and easily.....
The one at the back:

This part stays with the manifold when the tube uncouples
And in the front:

Sorry, didn't take a de-coupled pic. (In case it is confusing, we are looking at a mirror held under the vacuum fitting, with the throttle body removed for clarity)
Last edited by aholbro1; Apr 2, 2011 at 11:31 PM. Reason: corrected terminology for accuracy
"quick-connect" vacuum lines that would be more accurately called "bitter-ex-wife-to-disconnect" fittings!!!
You have to use a very small screw-driver or similar object (I had success with a nail-set) to push inward on the outer plastic ring where the tube penetrates the aluminum. You might think it is extra-difficult because you can hardly see it or access it....but that's only the half of it....it's still a B even if you get it out on the bench with good light and good access.
Still, I do have to admit that they reconnect quickly and easily.....
You have to use a very small screw-driver or similar object (I had success with a nail-set) to push inward on the outer plastic ring where the tube penetrates the aluminum. You might think it is extra-difficult because you can hardly see it or access it....but that's only the half of it....it's still a B even if you get it out on the bench with good light and good access.
Still, I do have to admit that they reconnect quickly and easily.....
Yes, push in on the annular ring. If you can do it from two sides at once, I'm sure that is goodness, but unless you are 3-handed, may be difficult..you need to pull out on the tube when you hear it "click" ...can't remember if pushing in on tube helps or not. Maybe Rick will weigh-in soon...I think he knows....I even tried the little a/c - fuel line quick-connect tools on it to no avail. As best I recall, pulling out on the tube whilst trying to press the ring inward is kinda like trying to lift the chair you are sitting in....
Yes, push in on the annular ring. If you can do it from two sides at once, I'm sure that is goodness, but unless you are 3-handed, may be difficult..you need to pull out on the tube when you hear it "click" ...can't remember if pushing in on tube helps or not. Maybe Rick will weigh-in soon...I think he knows....I even tried the little a/c - fuel line quick-connect tools on it to no avail. As best I recall, pulling out on the tube whilst trying to press the ring inward is kinda like trying to lift the chair you are sitting in....
After taking out the plugs and seeing all the rust that was on them It got me thinking maybe water got in the tank some how? When I first went in to look at the car before buying the carpet in the passengers side rear seat had a puddle of water (it rained about and hour before I got there) First I thought maybe some one left the window down but the seats, door panel, or roof where not wet. I told the sales man about it and had his mechanics find out what caused it. Calls me 3 days later and says that there was a hoes that got blocked up and as a result the water from the rain got into the car, so I had him fix it and I have not had water runing in to the car anymore any chance that water might be getting in to the fuel tank?
Last edited by DavidRey; Apr 3, 2011 at 02:22 AM.
Injectors will tick like a time bomb if going bad I agree.
Injectors for these cars are cheap..surprise surprise
I just bought 8 new injectors OEM Jaguar for $99.00
I will send off my old one and have them professionally cleaned....$18 a piece and changed out injectors every 50,000 miles for optimal performance and mileage.
Injectors for these cars are cheap..surprise surprise
I just bought 8 new injectors OEM Jaguar for $99.00
I will send off my old one and have them professionally cleaned....$18 a piece and changed out injectors every 50,000 miles for optimal performance and mileage.
Rust looking deposits are not from water...
Odds are they are covered with this and ash..Tells me someone ran cheap fuel and tried to compensate by dumping a "bunch of snake oil" in the gas tank.

MMT Fouled
APPEARANCE: Spark plugs fouled by MMT (Methycyclopentadienyl Maganese Tricarbonyl) have reddish, rusty appearance on the insulator and side electrode.
CAUSE: MMT is an anti-knock additive in gasoline used to replace lead. During the combustion process, the MMT leaves a reddish deposit on the insulator and side electrode. RECOMMENDATION: No engine malfunction is indicated and the deposits will not affect plug performance any more than lead deposits (see Ash Deposits). MMT fouled plugs can be cleaned, regapped and reinstalled.
Odds are they are covered with this and ash..Tells me someone ran cheap fuel and tried to compensate by dumping a "bunch of snake oil" in the gas tank.

MMT Fouled
APPEARANCE: Spark plugs fouled by MMT (Methycyclopentadienyl Maganese Tricarbonyl) have reddish, rusty appearance on the insulator and side electrode.
CAUSE: MMT is an anti-knock additive in gasoline used to replace lead. During the combustion process, the MMT leaves a reddish deposit on the insulator and side electrode. RECOMMENDATION: No engine malfunction is indicated and the deposits will not affect plug performance any more than lead deposits (see Ash Deposits). MMT fouled plugs can be cleaned, regapped and reinstalled.






