Troubleshooted AC system blows cold only for driver
Hey, this relates to a 2001 S-Type (V8 4.0L). I went through the epic guide and replaced a faulty DCCV + recharged the refrigerant and applied some sealant. Compressor engages and no slip on the clutch.
In MANUAL mode, with LOW setting and max fan speed, I get ice cold air on drivers side, and kinda cold but disappointing air on passenger's side. Any idea what could cause that ? I double checked the DCCV both outputs are at same temp (so closed).
Sorry for the new post, couldnt find an answer in the epic guide...
Thanks
In MANUAL mode, with LOW setting and max fan speed, I get ice cold air on drivers side, and kinda cold but disappointing air on passenger's side. Any idea what could cause that ? I double checked the DCCV both outputs are at same temp (so closed).
Sorry for the new post, couldnt find an answer in the epic guide...
Thanks

Last edited by human_gamepad; May 4, 2025 at 04:30 PM.
My first thought is your new DCCV is bad, or possibly a problem in the circuit controlling the warmer side. What brand did you install?
When operating in manual LO, both sides of the DCCV are commanded to the full cold position, i.e. no warm coolant flowing through the heater core. If one side is warmer, something ain't right. You had mentioned "the DCCV both outputs are at same temp". Are you talking about the temperature of the coolant return lines? Or do you mean the air temperature from the vents? In the troubleshooting guide, I listed a test procedure to compare the vent temperatures to ambient, without any heat or cooling added. There were some specific steps to follow, such as switching off the AC.
A quick and dirty test you can also try is to clamp off the large coolant return line. This stops coolant flow through both sides of the heater core. I'm almost positive you will then see full cold on both sides, which means the one side of the DCCV was not fully closing. If so, the next step is to determine why. This could be due to a defective DCCV, even though it's new. It could also be due to a problem in the circuit controlling that side of the DCCV. In manual LO, both sides should receive full battery power to close the internal valves and stop the flow of coolant. If you've got high resistance in the circuit, such as a corroded connector, that valve may not be closing fully. Later models are also prone to problems with burnt traces inside the control module, but this generally isn't an issue on early models like yours.
When operating in manual LO, both sides of the DCCV are commanded to the full cold position, i.e. no warm coolant flowing through the heater core. If one side is warmer, something ain't right. You had mentioned "the DCCV both outputs are at same temp". Are you talking about the temperature of the coolant return lines? Or do you mean the air temperature from the vents? In the troubleshooting guide, I listed a test procedure to compare the vent temperatures to ambient, without any heat or cooling added. There were some specific steps to follow, such as switching off the AC.
A quick and dirty test you can also try is to clamp off the large coolant return line. This stops coolant flow through both sides of the heater core. I'm almost positive you will then see full cold on both sides, which means the one side of the DCCV was not fully closing. If so, the next step is to determine why. This could be due to a defective DCCV, even though it's new. It could also be due to a problem in the circuit controlling that side of the DCCV. In manual LO, both sides should receive full battery power to close the internal valves and stop the flow of coolant. If you've got high resistance in the circuit, such as a corroded connector, that valve may not be closing fully. Later models are also prone to problems with burnt traces inside the control module, but this generally isn't an issue on early models like yours.
Last edited by kr98664; May 6, 2025 at 02:15 PM.
Thanks for taking the time to reply 
I have no idea which brand the DCCV was... I went through a french jaguar parts specialists, which I know usually curates his components well (and it was on the expensive side of DCCVs)
Both DCCV lines leading to the heater core were at the same temp (very little difference, with the slightly hotter one being closer to the engine)
I did not check the vent temperatures vs external temp, because it seemed obvious the AC was providing cold air (on the drivers side mainly). But I understand I should run this test to double check that with no heat or cooling added, the vent temp should be equal to external temp, otherwise the DCCV is "leaking heat". If not, I understand I should start some electric troubleshooting.
Thanks again !

I have no idea which brand the DCCV was... I went through a french jaguar parts specialists, which I know usually curates his components well (and it was on the expensive side of DCCVs)
Both DCCV lines leading to the heater core were at the same temp (very little difference, with the slightly hotter one being closer to the engine)
I did not check the vent temperatures vs external temp, because it seemed obvious the AC was providing cold air (on the drivers side mainly). But I understand I should run this test to double check that with no heat or cooling added, the vent temp should be equal to external temp, otherwise the DCCV is "leaking heat". If not, I understand I should start some electric troubleshooting.
Thanks again !
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