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I've noticed the Stype is leaving drips of pink coolant on the floor. I can see its weeping from the water pump gasket. Is this a common problem? Before I whip the water pump off, what am I in for? Are all the bolts into the coolant passages and going to sheer off? Its a V6 3.0.
Have a look, if the coolant really comes out of a gasket - if it weeps of a gasket, it does not necessarily mean that this is where it comes from.
I has this problem - and after having fixed it and knowing what my issue was, I am puzzles as to why not everybody has this exact same problem...:
The coolant was weeping thru the metal of the water pump...
And this was - in my case - way worth then it sounds, because naturally this would mean: Replace the water pump, and it's fixed... - but no:
Have a look, which PART of the water pump you will get, if you order a water pump for you S-Type. - This was NOT the part, which had the holes corroded into the material on my S-Type - it was the other half - because: Ridiculously, if you order a water pump, you will receive only half a water pump. And that half, which you do not get, was the part with the holes...
I did some kind of massive research an figured out the that part, which I was looking for, was used on an old Ford. Ford sold the complete water pump back then, but that half, which Jaguar sells as pump for the S-Type is slightly different on the Ford, which means: After being able to source one of those old-stock Ford pumps new, I used half of that and screwed it onto the new Jaguar half to finally get a new water pump...
But of course, if you are lucky, that is not your problem, but really only a leaking gasket or hose...
Oh great ... that sounds like fun. In this case, it certainly looks like the joint between the water pump and its base. I'll look further tonight. Hey at least its not the weep hole meaning I need a new pump .....
The type may not matter if you replace base and pump at the same time?
The assembly bolts to the front of the engine. IIRC, two bolts go into the timing cover and the third goes into one of the cylinder heads. It’s the third bolt that won’t line up.
That eBay link appears to be the wrong style for an early V6.
A while back I purchased one of these big kits of "hose clamp" pliers as they are quite cheap these days, and I always struggle getting the damn clamps off when I'm forced to work on plastic modern crap boxes.
Guess what ... they don't really help at all. You can't fit the things into the spaces around the hose clamps. Imagine how easy life would be if I had little girly hands and arms (I can't think who else could fit there hands into half these places)
These clamps, straight to the bin!! I keep old worm drive clamps from parts car to use (they are way better quality than the garbage you buy these days).
My brain screamed .... AAAARRRRhhhhhhhhhh.... when I spotted these tiny bolts with 8mm heads holding the pump together. I was lucky, look how close they were to snapping off and "growing" into the alloy pump housing.
Such a relief, look how spotless and corrosion free it all is.
You can even see the ink marking there still inside the pump from when it was new.
I probably should have ordered in a pump gasket before I started .... Oh well ....
This gasket stuff is magic, it doesn't "set", and will just wipe away if it squeezes out.
Those bolts, I coated the threads with anti-seize and shanks with grease so they hopefully will not corrode into place and sheer off next time around.
Yeah, it really bleeds itself. I was suprised when I poured over 5 litres of coolant in and it just filled, without even having to open the thermostat. I can't get any coolant flow to the heater though, it looks like the heater valves are stuck closed (Yay, fun ).
Nice job, DoubleChevron, and thank you for posting photos!
Be aware that worm drive hose clamps should never be used where the hose fits onto a plastic fitting or nipple such as on modern radiators with plastic end caps. Worm drive clamps have a flat spot or pressure point under the screw housing. Over time, with thermal cycling, the plastic hose fitting will collapse under this pressure point and potentially crack. Plastic hose fittings and nipples are why modern cars use equal-pressure spring clamps, which have no flat spot. Pat Goss explains in the second half of this video:
P.S. I will gladly pay postage if you will send me the spring clamps you removed... I collect used spring clamps for the times when one jumps out of my hose clamp pliers into some uncharted corner of my shop.
#2): When access to a hose is limited, often you can reach the other end without too much trouble. Leave the difficult end attached and break the connection at the easy end of the hose. Remove the component with attached hose and then separate them from the comfort of your workbench. Reverse the order for installation.
Wow, I did not know that! I've actually learnt something today I had no idea you shouldn't use worm drive clamps on plastic. My favorite clamp is the fuel clamps to use are these types:
they have such a small range of size adjustment and are quite expensive. I usually keep a box of them here for fuel lines.
fortunately you can usually access the spring type clamps on the radiator, so I can easily remove/refit them in this case.
@ DoubleChevron: Job well done.
And if your self-cut gasket works, then great. I have in the back of my head that those gaskets specifically are unreasonable expensive to buy.
I usually make the gaskets as most of the cars I own don't have readily available gaskets I can just buy (often I have to order the in from overseas). A roll of gasket paper on hand is so much quicker and easier You don't need to use sealers on the gaskets, but I usually do on aluminium as it'll seal up any areas with that have any corrosion damage.
water pumps
