Unless the metal tubing portion of the lines fail, there is no reason to replace them. The line failures that tend to be reported on this forum seem to occur at the metal tubing-to-rubber hose crimps, an infamous weak spot / design flaw. So the easiest, quickest, and most cost-effective repair in this case is to do what I'm planning to do (as described above)....

 

Looking forward to hearing they've got you fixed up, Jon. I was worried about this on the wife's 05 - noticed a few really sparse drips on the garage floor the last couple of weeks. I was kinda dreading a cam-cover change, but actually hoping for that over a belly-pan refit or searching out someone here to do what you're having done. Looks like I dodged a bullet - just a seep at the oil filter gasket! Of course, that's good news/bad news - I put that one on....must've not snugged it up quite enough.

 

1stjagjet says that the pressure is 3-4bar (45-60 psi) approximately. That's reasonably high, I would say, and certainly enough to get ugly if there's a break n the pipe or a loose union. Fuel hoses would typically be 100psi+ whereas a coolong system s just 16-18psi

 

lots of after market transmission coolers and a/c condensors are installed using hose clamps over rubber hose

 

I'm wondering if 3-4 bar is correct. Seems a lot just to move some not very hot trans fluid.

 

I do not believe that the pressures are as high as speculated in this thread. Next time you're under your car with the belly pan off, take a look at the OEM rubber hose section of those lines. Quite flimsy. High-quality hydraulic hoses will more than suffice if the work is done by a competent guy with the right tools and know-how....

 

Jon, V8

If you look closely at the cooler lines you will notice swaged unions from aluminum to hose which is indicative of a higher pressure. The exact quote from a ZF engineer was about 3 + bar. My issue was caused by rubbing of the lower cooling pipe ( aluminum portion ) on the air deflector due to a poor warranty repair. The compromised area of the bottom of the tube appears to have been rubbed enough to flattened the pipe approximately 3/8 of the outside diameter. The resulting reduction of wall thickness was enough to cause a weep that amounts to a drop every second at rest. A long trip would cause a sure reduction of the fluid, prevent operational function and eventual failure of the gearbox.

I will be speaking with ZF again this morning about the additive to stop the "ZF Squawk". In addition to other programming issues, I will share my findings.

Lads, I wouldn't guess at the pressure, I picked up the phone and spoke to the source. I won't speculate on the specifications, I get them from a credible source or I won't mention them.

2003 S-type 4.2 Zf 6HP 26 part shown C2Z11606 includes brackets and O rings SN# M 45255 up

 

BTW, all of the components on both the high side and low side circuits of aftermarket A/C kits installed when A/C was not common, were installed with hose clamps on the barbed fittings. It was also common to replace swaged fittings with hose and clamp when servicing factory A/C systems. Recall that the high side circuit can be in the hundreds of psi.

Essentially, swaging and hose clamps perform the same function: applying clamping pressure on an underlying barb. The swaging just happens to be more repeatable in an assembly line environment and lends itself it automated final assembly.

 

Plums

The original design used Jubilee clips( Hose Clamps ) and was found unsatisfactory and generated a TSB due to the leaks observed in the field.
It should be apparent that the swaged solution is required in this case due to the pressures involved. Repairs done with a clamp these days only insures a return for more expensive service. Please advise one OEM A/C system that uses clamps today. Economy of scale and lower production costs aside. Reliable is just better.

I have seen none, but I would be interested.

Please contact me by PM

Robert

 

After chatting with the Zf engineering team, I am reliably told that LG 1 will quiet the infamous squawk heard by some owners. Again the pressure of about 3 bar ( 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI ) was confirmed.

With regard to the Sleeve replacement should be carried out with the application of Vaseline jelly on the sleeve to prevent binding as it is inserted from the outside of the case. Closely check the pin in the female plug to make sure they have not receded back into the plug. This will give you a communication error.

These are also known to leak and cause mischief. So if for any reason you drop the pan, replace the sleeve at $16 you would be well advised to do it.

Enjoy the Day and these wonderful if not inexpensive Motorcars!

Robert

Sealing parts: The CTSC - ZF parts

 

Well it's a shame ZF can't do a better job of this!!

We were told at first to use a separate additive. Then the additive went obsolete and we were told that the Lifguard6 fluid contains the additive.

Now again we have a change and this magic additive is now in LG1 (Lifeguard1?)

Any idea how much of this magic LG 1 needs to be added?

I have serviced my transmission and at $19/L the regular Lifeguard6 is expensive enough!!
.
.
.

 

This was at an authorized service facility for transport refrigeration systems, aka "reefers" and authorized aftermarket A/C add-on kit distributor.

Never saw a single comeback for leaks.

 

+1 Plums,
I believe it was the barrier-hose introduced with R-134a that did-in the clamp/barb arrangement, nothing to do with pressure at all. However, even with that, I know Ford, and I believe most other OEM's have a recommended service procedure involving barbs and hose clamps in the A/C system. Most any OEM Service manual will insist you add an in-line filter in addition to replacing rec/drier or suction accum & CCOT if your a/c compressor comes apart and spreads its innards throughout your system. In-line filter = Cut the hose, use hose clamps to secure the barbed fittings on the filter to the hose - and even on the suction side, you will easily see 100 psi.

 

Jon,

Got those lines mended yet?

 

Zane,

We're still dealing with the death of my wife's father ten days ago. She's back from his funeral in Tampa now (and is thankful to have been present for his death), but there is still much to do to notify all the required government agencies and businesses in order to get her mother taken care of....

Our S-Type needs the transmission lines work and her XK8 needs an oil & filter change / tire rotation / front brake pad job, but the cars must wait for the time being....

I hope to get to everything within the next ten days or so....

 

Jon,
Really sorry to hear that. We went through a similar event about this time last year with my wife's mother. Unfortunately, she was still enroute and didn't get to be with her when she died. Thoughts and prayers are with you and your family.

Zane

 

Update:

The transmission hose replacement job is scheduled for next Tuesday, October 22nd. Two custom-made hydraulic hoses (their next-door-neighbor business is a hydraulic hose manufacturer) will replace the design-flawed OEM weeping hose segments in both lines. They expect to lose between 6 and 8 ounces of ATF as part of the replacement process. I'm taking them my two bottles of ZF Fluid when I drop off the car on Monday evening so they'll have the right stuff to use when they top it up after the new hoses are in place....

Stay tuned....

 

Jon,
Condolences to your family for the loss.

 

I got caught short since the procedure for checking the final level requires them to spill this precious fluid to ensure the proper amount. You would think that 2 liters would be enough, but !

I plan to use my old original cooler lines to do the same thing. In Orlando their is an Aviation repair station that can make exact replicas at a fraction of the cost. Go figure. I plan to use much higher spec hose with the aluminum ends so the engine, sub frame and steering rack don't have to be removed to accomplish the task.

I assume your line rubbed the air deflector and the lower aluminum line is leaking?

I will post specs when done.

 

You assume incorrectly. Re-read the thread. These hoses tend to leak at the crimp, not from the aluminum tubes. The crimp is the design flaw....