I have just fitted daylight running lights I spliced them into the sidelight wires - but they are on all the time!

A voltmeter test showed the wires are giving out 11.60 volts even with the switch off ???.

 

I'd say you've spliced into the wrong wire, post up what wires you used, location, colour, pic if possible and let's see what's up.

Did you see the recent thread about a 99 S with rust eaten sills?
Just wondering if you've had a look at yours recently as a comparison.

 

I spliced into the orange/yellow and black/yellow wires on the plug for the side lights - but they were on all the time

Looking at You tube I found instructions for DRL kits and found you use a spare connection in the fuse box which is live when the ign switch is in position II. I done this and fitted an earth wire attached to a small crocodile clip connected to a bolt in the bay - so that I can easily disconnect them off if I wish.
A bit Heath Robinson but they now go on and off with the ignition

The sills are fine as is the rest of the car, the only small spot of rust is on the front of the bonnet. I'll have to fix it with some touch up paint before the bad weather

 

All good news then.

 

Sounds good Scot, glad you got it sorted
You didn't post any pics of the install......if you have em post em on up

 

I'm planning to fit HIDs - I had them fitted but one was faulty

When I fit the new set I'll post the pics.

I note you are a fellow light enthusiast, I replaced practically every bulb in my X300 with LEDs.

 

I guess I am a bit confused?? You should be able to get the DRL's turned on by the dealer with a change in programming. The S Type was sold all over the world and some places require DRL's.

I know on my wife's 2003 Lincoln LS the dealer can enable or disable the DRL's.

Anybody know for sure on the S Type? Maybe Brutal??
.
.
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Here is a pic of the lights -

 

So crazy. You want DRL's, I'm trying to find a place that will disable mine. Haha. The grass is always greener on the other side.

 

Mind sharing which fuse did u use?

 

Very old thread, go see if member still logs in!!

 

Hello,

Where Did you connect the switched wire?

Best regards,
Lucien

 

See post #11

 

JagV8 did you ever figure out the empty fuse that would turn on with the ingnition. I need to get some type of lights that come on (DRL) for an inspection to import my car & looking for the easiest way and something cheaper than having to pay a dealer to enable the DRL function.

 

I've no desire for it but you can get the workshop manual JTIS and go hunting...

Or see if the dealer can just enable DRL as I gather they can.

 

I took a connection from Fuse 38. This is switched with ignition. I bought a relais 12 volt and connected it parrallel on the small light (we call it city light). The + wire from fuse 38 is than switched over the contact from this relais and [ATTACH][/ATTACH] connected to the DLR relais. like this the daylight will switch on when the ignition is turned on and the lights or switched off. This is how i have done it at a S-type from 2007

 

If you ever come out to the east end--Whitby--I can switch the factory DRL system on --no charge. In Toronto "Plums" may be able to help you.

 

Thanks for the offer six rotors, unfortunately Whitby is a bit of a trip so I just installed some cheap LED strip lights and wire them into a fuse that comes on when key is turned (i.e.) cig lighter.

Funny part is I tried tapping every fuse in the engine compartment and a bunch of fuses in the passenger and it seemed they were all powered even when no key in the ignition so lights would be on all the time - even the accessory/cig lighter fuse was like this at the fuse panel ????

The only place I could get power just whhen key was turned was the actual cig/ lighter port so I just ended up rigging up the power end of the LED lights to one of those splitters you plug into the cig. lighter.

Works for what I need right now to pass RIV import inspection and since I leave the lights on auto all the time anyways it will in effect have Daytime running lights on even if I pull the LED strips I have in there now.

 

Hi fellas,

Please don't misread what I am about to say as any form of criticism or put-down . . . none intended. BUT; I am continually amazed at . . .

1. extent of universal misunderstanding or complete ignorance of how modern electrical/electronic systems are designed to operate and
2. repeated failure of people to follow repeated . . . and repeated . . . and repeated advice by our gurus (again by JagV8 here) to download, then use, the appropriate Wiring Diagram.

Systems designed to selectively apply or deny power to a modern electronics system DIED some 20 years ago. Anyone who thinks that's how their 5-15yo S-Type works, must think again . . . and very quickly, before you do some real damage. Electronic switches, typically using semiconductors, operate far more efficiently, reliably and economically if switching grounds, not "hot" feeds. All this is amply shown on every single S-Type wiring diagram. Neg terminal of battery is bolted by cable to metal body; Pos terminal is distributed to Rear, Front and Cabin Junction Fuse banks; each circuit split and protected by a unique fuse, then fed direct to each lamp or whatever . . . NOT a switch anywhere.

But, in the return ground path, no longer is there an internal connection so bolting to metal car body completes circuit back to battery. Now, attachment may be to non conductive plastic, so a second independent wire carries the "ground seeking" side of the device, and here is where you will find your switches, relays, and connections to all the Control Modules. My late S-Type Luxury has 18 of these control modules.

This means that if you go searching with an old fashioned light probe or even a modern DVM, clipped with its little croc clip to a good ground, you will find yourself surrounded by +12V everywhere you turn . . . eg not just one side but BOTH sides of the auto interlock solenoid.

Now, every system thrives on exceptions, so take care around Starter Solenoids & Motors, Alternators and their charge circuits; and also some TBs on some Jags (some XK8s, but I think S-Types are OK). With this brief lesson on board, anyone who goes prodding around the AirBag circuitry with a grounded probe and battery still connected . . . is in for the granddaddy of surprises . . . a modest change of clothes dry-cleaning bill . . . and a really off-putting bill for brand new AirBags.

At the expense of being even more long-winded this gives us 6 magic problem solving tools . . .

1. if a "hot" wire chaffs on the metal body, FUSE WILL BLOW and DEVICE WILL NOT TURN ON;
2. if a "ground return" wire chaffs on metal body, FUSE WILL BE OK but DEVICE WILL NOT TURN OFF;
3. if either wire breaks, FUSE WILL BE OK but device will NEVER TURN ON;
4. from 3; if wire or connector is open in "hot" lead, NO +12V WILL BE DETECTED IN EITHER LEAD;
5. from 3; if +12V DETECTED IN BOTH LEADS, then any fault lies in the "ground seeking" path or control devices;
6. from 3; if +12V DETECTED IN ONLY ONE LEAD, then the device has failed and should be replaced.

Cobbling together power feeds as advocated in some threads here, is just creating time bombs ready to trap you, your tech service person, or the next owner. I hope this provides a wake-up call on how these systems work, and please . . . take your hats off to fellas like JagV8 who surely must get so tired of repeating . . . get the appropriate Wiring Diagram and use it.

If, having done so, there are bits you don't understand then, sure, fire away. You want to connect some new gizmo? Fine . . . follow Jaguar's convention . . . connect one side of your device to +12V power via the appropriate fuse (either permanently on, accessory on, or ignition on) then provide a user override switch . . . whether that's an electronic switch, relay, nice under-dash toggle, or our original friend's croccy clip.
Best wishes, and I'm sorry if I sound a grumpy old sod,
Ken

 

Well done that man!

(I do get tired, yes.)