Someone once observed "Experience" is when you learn from your own mistakes, whereas "Wisdom" is demonstrated by learning from the mistakes of others...or some such thing. Here is your opportunity to gain wisdom from my experience.

You should note that I'd successfully removed and replaced the 3.0L Upper intake manifold not once, but twice in former times: Once on the 2003 that is the subject of this attempt - several years ago, and again on the 2005, as recently as September. Just lucky, I guess, that I never had opportunity to notice that of the 6 rubber/metal fixing bolt isolators, 2 are larger diameter than the other 4.



Don't mix them up or you will pop one or more precious brass inserts up out of the robust plastic lower intake manifold! The large diameter ones go in locations #3 and #5 shown in the JTIS diagram, both inboard holes on the manifold.



I should back up a bit. I was proceeding most carefully, in order given by the graphic in JTIS, 1-6, first hand-tight, then one-turn at a time with the torque wrench on my way to 10 N-M. Even so, #3 was first to "click" at 10nm, followed by #1, then expecting a click while gently applying pressure to the torque wrench on #2, I get a "pop" instead and that sinking feeling of immediate realization that it has all gone horribly wrong!

So, I removed all the fixing bolts, realized the root cause, and pushed the manifold aside to make room for an attempted fix. Using a washer-head nut residing in a suitable container from removing the cabin air filter plenum for ease-of-access for cam-cover R&R, I fashioned this repair tool from one of the short intake fixing bolts:



Then I mixed up a dollop of Harbor-Freight generic JB Weld equivalent, slathered it all around the brass insert, and used the fixing bolt to push/twist back into place. It was only about 50F in the shop that day, so I hit it with a heat gun for a bit, then held the bolt stationary with a wrench whilst using another wrench to loosen the wshr-hd nut so as not to have it epoxied to the lower manifold. Hit it a few more times now and then with the heat gun as it was going to be down near 30F overnight, another shot or two with the heat gun 18-20 hrs later and then I carefully refit everything with the isolators and fixing bolts in their PROPER positions.



Forgot to mention, I also use anti-seize compound in realization of the fact that I'll likely be the "next guy" that has to dis-assemble it!

 

Nice write up! Thanks for sharing your experience to increase our wisdom.

Also, kudos for working the word "dollop" into the story. That's a word sadly underutilized in our English language. I'm on a personal mission to rectify that. One downside is my wife is now hesitant to serve baked potatoes with dinner. Much to her chagrin, the rest of the family now joyfully joins in the conversation with comments such as, "Thank you, I would like a dollop of sour cream. And you?"

 

Thanks KR, but I can't accept the points since I misspelled it!!!

 

WTG Zane! Now you would have thought that the other guy that posts DIY w/pics would have mentioned the different rubber/metal fixing bolt isolators. But to be honest after all those years of removing the plenum for one reason or another, I never noticed.

 

Rick? DId you cover that? I'll confess after just having done it in Sept '16, I didn't review any "how-to's" only coming in to JTIS to get the torque spec.

 

I am having a similar issue on my 2003 X type. However, one of my isolator bolts is actually stuck in place. Not allowing me to remove the manifold to replace the knock sensor. An advice as to how I may be able to remove it without damaging the manifold?

 

Please define “stuck in place”.

Does the fastener refuse to turn? That would mean the bolt is seized or jammed to the brass insert. In this situation, it would seem the insert is still secure in the lower manifold. Could you cut off the fastener with a Dremel or other means? Be careful not to damage the upper manifold, of course. Remove the other fasteners and lift the upper manifold straight off. Then you’d have access to hopefully free the seized remnant of the fastener from the insert, using penetrating oil, etc.

Or does the fastener spin but doesn’t back out? That would point to the insert having broken free from the lower manifold and spinning. If you remove the other fasteners, you should be able to remove the upper manifold, including the spinning fastener and loose insert. You could then grip the insert with pliers and unthread it from the fastener. Clean up the threads with a tap and die. Reinstall the inser with a dollop of epoxy as previously described.

 

The isolator spins in place. Will not release to give enough clearance for cutting tools. And coincidentally it's the last fastener to remove the manifold.

 

Your only remaining option may be brute force and ignorance. If the insert is spinning, you’ll have to pull it free to release the upper manifold.

 

Before you do anything drastic. It might help if you put upward pressure on the bolt while undoing it at the same time. The bolts are only meant to be tightened to10nm and it is possible that it is a stripped thread But might bite onto the remaining good threads with upward pressure (if you are lucky). Worth a try.

If you make a card board template of the order of the intake manifold bolts, insert holes and make sure you know front from back, and place them in to the cardboard as you take them out you won't make a mistake with the different size bolts. I do this as to rely on my memory is always a mistake for me.

To get more help make a new post with your speciic problem rather than using this post.