I have a 2005 S-type non supercharged 4.2. Car has no heat and has a misfire and immediately throws up a restricted performance light when you start it (even after leaving the battery disconnected for a day to attempt to reset it). These are the things I have done to try and get heat: flushed heater core, new reservoir tank and hose (both leaked), new heater valve... still no heat. The things I have done for the misfire: new coils and spark plugs.

The radiator has issues and was going to replace that but wondering if I should keep putting good money after bad as nothing seems to change. Got a new thermostat but did not install it because the nuts that hold that piece on just spin and it is impossible to get them loose, really don't want to have to replace the entire thermostat housing.

I have a really cheap scanner tool that I use on my Chevys and i get this grocery list of codes with it on the Jaguar: P0301, P0307, P1316, P0206, P0300, P0301, P0307, P1316, P0201, P1000 (I know, a couple are repeated). Is there a decent scan tool I can get for a Jaguar that is more specific on what is needed without spending much more than $100? I am a Mac person so if the scanner needs a PC to operate or update that is a problem too.

Debating on whether to cut my losses and part the car out (only paid $1,000 for the car and probably dumped another $400 in it so far, it had some power steering issues which is the only thing I have successfully fixed).

Any thoughts appreciated. Would be willing to buy a decent scan tool if it actually gave me some answers.

 

The normally aspirated V8*s are quite rare over here (don't know where you are) so may be worth hanging on to.
How is the structure, if the sills are ok then it would be worth persevering with?

Just disconnecting the battery won't achieve anything regarding a reset, you need to disconnect the positive cable and connect it to the negative for an hour or so.

Someone will chime in with a decent code reader I am sure, otherwise can you get it to a mechanic?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/ for a thread on heating issues.

 

hughga:

1. Where are you located? This is important to addressing some of your issues.
2. How many miles are on the car?
3. Do you have any ideas about the car's prior service/maintenance history?

The codes suggest, at a minimum, misfires pretty much across the board. Thie misfires have caused an "excess emissions" code to be set; hopefully no damage to the catalysts has occurred. It also looks like the codes have been cleared and not all emissions "flags" have been reset.

Please answer my and Steve's questions and the forum "gurus" will try to help.

 

I have a Windows based scan tool on a laptop that works well for generic codes and monitors, but a bit clumsy to link up and carry around.

An iCarsoft 930 scanner for more Jaguar specific as well as generic codes. It is nice. That is about $120.

Far more frequently, I use cheap OBD2 transceivers from Amazon and a freeware app. Generic codes only but I have one for each of my cars and leave them plugged in all the time. If I want to check a status or reporting value, I just link to it on a moment to moment basis. Those are around $20. Newer ones are WiFi, I liked the Bluetooth ones better. These also clear codes.

Good luck.

 

The heat issue is most likely a burnt out climate control module. They’re notorious for having a trace is on the PRINTED circuitboard smoke under high current and theres a guy that can repair those or you can search the forums and attempt your own Repair.

as for a scanner you can get the Chinese mongoose cable and Jaguar scanner software for a PC not sure if they make it for the Mac but it cost about 125 bucks and it will do everything you need it to do as well as look at live data. you really need to find out what is causing the misfire. if it’s a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter bad knock sensors bad o2 sensors….. whatever
you can look at the data.

Where are you at in the US maybe one of us can help. I’m in Central Arkansas I’m pretty handy. in fact I’ve got a spare 06 V8 s type parts car as well as an 06 STR supercharged driver. My parts car has the engine torn apart because the previous owner thought it needed timing chains and took it apart but couldnt figure out how to do anything after that so I got it for $800 After the engine got rained on

 

Hi hugha,

pretty much any scanner at around and under 100 usd will do. There are scanners at 20usd that will read, decribe and reset codes. Just get pretty much any at 50-80 range or so. If you only paid 1000, definitely invest another 1000. Keep in mind, all code reader will give you generic kind of description of a problem, but that problem can be caused by number of factors, so no matter how much you spend still have to troubleshoot. Googling out codes is as reliable as any scanner description , just FYI.. Quick look at your codes :
*P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
*P0307 Cylinder 7 misfire
*P1316 Random misfire
*P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 6
*P0300 Random multiple cylinder misfire
*P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 1
*P1000 Diagnostics code bla bla bla
If sparkplugs and and coils done, then, make sure all kosher with battery and more importantly battery terminals are tight. If you starting car without tightening them up, very well could be a problem. Make sure all connectors are tight, electrical plug ins for your injector line. Cant really advise much as many options. Just start with moth generic issue elimination process. Good luck. Honestly, 1400 for a car is nothing, to have any car that you can depend on, probably 5K anyhow? Might as well budget and fix it.

 

I'd put the heat issue on the back burner for right now. Take care of those engine fault codes first.

Looking at that laundry list of codes, some are higher priority than others. But first, permit me to get up on my Misfire Soapbox[tm]. If the computer has set a misfire code, please be aware "misfire" wasn't the best terminology that could have been used. Misfire sounds like an ignition problem, at least to me, meaning the fuel and compression were there, but for whatever reason, the required spark was missing or weak. This might lead an aspiring mechanic to troubleshoot the daylights out of a perfectly good ignition system. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

In OBD-speak, misfire simply means one or more cylinders is putting out low power compared to the others. Pretty much anything affecting the output of a cylinder can set a misfire code. It can be low compression. It can be a valve not opening fully. It could be a clogged fuel injector. And yes, it could be an ignition problem, too, but don't overlook the other possibilities, too.

Okay, let me climb down from my soapbox now.

I would suggest investigating the P0201 and P0206 codes first. Those codes mean the computer sees a direct problem with electrical side of injectors 2 and 6. This could be an open or shorted coil, or resistance out of range. More details here:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf


All of the other codes are more secondary in nature, such as low power (misfire) from cylinders 1 and 7.

Also, you mentioned having replaced the coils and plugs. What brand coils did you install? We've had many tales of woe with no-name eBay specials or the house brand from discount chains. I recently had a Beck-Arnley coil bad from stock, which was quite surprising as I've had good results with them previously. I replaced with Denso and all was good.

Before you open your wallet for injectors and name brand coils, you can try swapping them for troubleshooting. Clear the codes and see if the fault follows to the new positions.