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Similar to the GM 3800 mark 2 six. shorter snout
couldn't find the port described but I suspect I see the port on mine is on the front of the body
the GM recommended change is at 30 to 50 k miles
I suspect I best leave mine alone
Its not that easy, I used a syringe that is used for this purpose and It took a long time to remove all the oil, and messy,but i would definitely change it.
I'd do it. It's easy, cheap ($30 for the whole kit), and will extend the useful life of the unit. In this thread by Scardini there's an excellent kit, and I show pictures of when I did this job on my car:
Here is the eBay listing. The part number on the bottles crossed checked with some research NAPA did for me, so I'm fairly confident it's the exact spec oil we need.
Shipping and delivery were FAST! My oil was changed less than a week after placing the order, and that included a day's delay on my end.
Originally Posted by 80sRule
I just did this last night on my car and it's super simple.
First I put the hood into service mode; then I tied back my intercooler hoses, moved some wires out of the way; do all this gently! I also moved one hose behind the dipstick to just keep it clear. This all took maybe a minute. I left the hard line going from tstat housing to overflow tank, its only a year old, but last time i touched it a year ago...
Then I had access with the 3/16" allen wrench. I just used a small one; no ball end, just one that was short and it was easy as can be, then I used the syringe that came with the kit, but I added a WD40 straw as other posters suggested. I taped the straw in, and put a zip tie around it just to be sure it would stay and not have a vacuum leak. I used this setup on the sucking out part:
It was nasty!
When I got it all out, I removed the WD40 Straw from the setup to just be the syringe and black hose. I filled the syringe with fresh SC Oil, which is a very nice clear oil; and kept using the syringe to fill the SC; it took a few times until finally oil started coming out the fill hole. Then I put the plug back in and I was good to go! Then I removed zip ties and routed everything back where it was. Then reconnected the hood struts to the hood and was done.
All in, this took maybe a half hour. The kit was $30 shipped, but you can get a pair of these bottles for $16 on amazon (just bought to do my XJR) and get a syringe setup much cheaper; but honestly they aren't making a fortune off you selling the kit. Plus less time spent shopping around. I'm reusing this syringe setup though, worked perfectly.
Got access when oil plug removed ....no fluid outflow at all. Use a suction device but only got a couple of ounces of dark brown fluid out. Put in approx. 1 bottle of fluid and got out flow at plug.
The bone=head that I am although I packed the area with paper towel the plug,having its own mind, found its way into never never land.
Ordered new plug from ZZPerformance in Wyoming Michigan GM P/N 2450-0661
Am concerned I didn't get all the fluid out.
Anyone care to comment???
Phoenix
Got access when oil plug removed ....no fluid outflow at all. Use a suction device but only got a couple of ounces of dark brown fluid out. Put in approx. 1 bottle of fluid and got out flow at plug.
The bone=head that I am although I packed the area with paper towel the plug,having its own mind, found its way into never never land.
Ordered new plug from ZZPerformance in Wyoming Michigan GM P/N 2450-0661
Am concerned I didn't get all the fluid out.
Anyone care to comment???
Phoenix
I really recommend adding the WD40 straw onto the end; and you really need to move it around in there.
When I changed my 2005 XJR supercharger oil I definitely got as deep in as possible using the WD40 tube at the correct angle. Using even a slightly thicker tube would not go in and down as far. It has to be at the correct angle, you find this by trial and error.
only got 40k KM on the Phoenix. Oil was transparent but dark brown. Obviously degraded. I'll be making this a fairly regular piece of the maintenance cycle.
Bye the bye thanks to the folks that put sooo much effort into responding and giving encouragement.
I'd purchased a kit off ebay, worth getting the syringe and tubing alone, this was fine to get 7.25 oz out.. now I have it for a number of uses and the only draw back of the 'red straw' is it's way too narrow and makes it more difficult to draw out the oil. You do have to push the hose around inside and give it a twist but it finds the right spot. Couple shots: note the pliers I used to push the tube in fully.
Last edited by jamdmyers; Aug 11, 2015 at 02:53 AM.
Well we got it done....happy I did...see the color of the oil after 25000 mi /40000 km 6 ounces... custom 3/16 allen wrench with a file handle...drainer is a 60 ml /2oz luer lock medical syringe with a luer lock I/V line cut on a bias to make a sharp pointy end that slid into the chamber with ease length of line is about 16 inches so that you can manage the line and syringe with ease. Again my thanks to all!!!
Well we got it done....happy I did...see the color of the oil after 25000 mi /40000 km 6 ounces... custom 3/16 allen wrench with a file handle...drainer is a 60 ml /2oz luer lock medical syringe with a luer lock I/V line cut on a bias to make a sharp pointy end that slid into the chamber with ease length of line is about 16 inches so that you can manage the line and syringe with ease. Again my thanks to all!!!
Thanks for this post.
Gave me the confidence to do it today at 76,000 miles.
As others have stated you need thinner bore tube to get all the way in - I used some IV tube from work. Got about 160 mls out which was obviously low because it took all of the 200 mls of oil supplied before I got to overflow. The old stuff was dark brown.
Your tip to put a custom handle on the allen key was very welcome - I did the same and it made the job so much easier - it would be a real struggle with just the allen key so thanks for the top tip.
Originally Posted by 80sRuleI just did this last night on my car and it's super simple.
"First I put the hood into service mode;"
I asked my Jag specialist about putting the bonnet (hood) into service mode when my intercooler coolant pump needed replacing & he said it just means open it.
Originally Posted by 80sRuleI just did this last night on my car and it's super simple.
"First I put the hood into service mode;"
I asked my Jag specialist about putting the bonnet (hood) into service mode when my intercooler coolant pump needed replacing & he said it just means open it.
Originally Posted by 80sRuleI just did this last night on my car and it's super simple.
"First I put the hood into service mode;"
I asked my Jag specialist about putting the bonnet (hood) into service mode when my intercooler coolant pump needed replacing & he said it just means open it.
Does it?
First have two decently sized bolts with nuts. Then open the hood. Then disconnect the struts from it (just undo them from the hood, leave them connected on the fenders and just put them out of the way. The hood will move quite a bit forward. Youll see down on the hinges that they make a hole that you can stick the bolt through. By having the right diameter bolts, it will have minimal play (I don't want it moving around) and stay up.
These pics should help:
That second picture, I don't use the struts like that to hold the hood, I don't think it's secure enough.
Just finished the removal of the old oil and supplying of the new oil. Total costs:
GM Supercharger oil on Amazon: $16
Syringe with needle for seasoning turkeys before deep frying (it's a southern thing...found at most grocery stores): $3
5/32 Rigid Emissions Tubing: $5
Used a 3/16 allen wrench bit with a box wrench to break the plug seal and then pliers to turn the bit once the plug was loose. The tubing worked perfectly and using the syringe baster gave me a large reservoir and the ability to unscrew the needle without upsetting the tubing location. Not very messy and about 7oz was extracted from the supercharger. Boy does that oil stink after 90K miles! :-)
Anyway, I ran out of time and just have to reinstall the plug today (dropped it...too slippery, go figure). Access was tight, but good. Just moved one crankcase vent tube after removing the aircleaner assembly. Total job for a first timer with average skills should take no more than an hour if all the tools are handy before hand.
Just completed the supercharger oil change, start to finish took less than an hour with a cost of $30. In reading through the above, not sure I would put the hood into service mode, had no trouble servicing the car with it attached/open normally. As mentioned, a pair of long needlenose pliers is an excellent addition. Simply cable tie the offending hose out of the way, break the plug with a 3/16 allen and then once it is loose, use the pliers to further loosen and then remove with your finger (tight quarters). I took out about 50% of what I added so definitely was in need of service.
As you can see not a lot of oil came out, I was able to fully insert the hose
It is an easy job. I had to adapt the syringe tube with a smaller tube (from an eyeglass cleaner spray bottle) in order to feed the tube in deep enough to suck the old oil out.
Howdy folks:
I just wanted to emphasize finding the optimum hose insertion distance. In my case, it was 6" to draw out 7oz.
Here are my notes on the subject (your results may vary):
Put bonnet in Service position
(2) 4 oz bottles GM 12345982 SC oil (7 oz. fill)
14" Weed Whacker fuel hose (insert 6" optimum)
2 oz Syringe
sponge to catch fill overflow /plug
headlamp led lamp to see fill overflow
needlenose pliers for hose insertion (1" increments)and to steady mini ratchet with 3/16" hex bit
flex putty knife for backing pressure on ratchet
Duplicolor Engine Enamel DE1651 Cast Coat Iron
The ball end hex driver is ideal, but I just never got one.
Supercharger oil change
I just did this last night on my car and it's super simple.
