You'll love this...
SNG Barratt don't have part JFB10607E at all, but they have JFB10607B025 in stock, and I've added 4 to my order.

Not sure what the difference is between E and B025, but I guess I'll find out when I get the tensioners fitted

 

When you find out the difference let us all know.
Good luck

 

I would like to re-submit a question. I asked this in another tensioner thread and no one responded. I asked it again earlier in this thread and also it went unanswered. I am thinking that someone else must have been in the same situation since its not uncommon to change the secondary tensioners and then later go back in for the rest. The question is as follows:

"My secondary tensioners are only 5 months old. I am now going in to replace the rest of the timing gear. Is there any special directions since I will NOT be removing the secondaries? My plan was simply to put a large wire-tie around each one holding it at it's current extension. Then, when the new chains are on, removing the wire-tie. This may not even be necessary but I'm not really clear on how they operate."

Thanks for your patience.

 

@ Harvest - if you turn the engine until it's in the service position, i.e. buy the tools, use them then sell them (dummy crank sensor, cam locking tool, pulley puller & holder) it takes the margins of error right out of the work.

I've included a shots of the primaries with tensioners and guides. You'll be removing and installing the vvt and possibly the inlet sprocket to get the chains/tensioners and guides installed. Hope this helps.

 

Rather than having worries, $99 for tools makes the job much easier.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231660823595?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
There is another thread where poster made them with couple pieces of angle iron, and piece of flat stock with bolts for the spanner wrench.

 

As confident as I am in my basic communication skills, I have apparently explained my question very poorly. LOL

I did order the tools and fully intent to perform the full lock down procedure etc. My question was just regarding the secondary tensioners themselves. While I am performing this full engine lock down and replacing the chains, primary tensionsers, guides and associated seals I will NOT be replacing the secondary tensioners as they are already quite new.

That being the case, do I just ignore the secondaries and replace all the timing components around them, or do I need to secure them in some way so they don't overextend... or something? There is obviously no "pin" in them to pull when the job is done, allowing extension. The "wire tie" idea I had was to restrain the tensioner as the original "pin" did.

I apologize again for not being clearer. Thanks guys.

 

Now I see.
I haven't actually done mine yet but planning to today.
From what I understand, basically after locking everything down at TDC, take all the timing parts off, put all the new parts back on (so your secondaries can stay, but I think the bolt would get loosened). Then while applying tension counter clockwise on the exhaust cam gear with spanner wrench, tighten the exhaust gear bolt followed by the intake gear bolt.

 

Got mine torn down. It was a noisy one and now I know why...
Timing was OK, not jumped.

 

Wow. That must make you feel pretty good about deciding to replace the timing gear!

Was getting the crank pulley off a major ordeal? I am going to tear mine down today (my timing tool kit is arriving today). The only thing I could not source yet was the Jaguar specific crank pulley holder/puller. I was hoping to use a generic puller instead. The old pulley is NOT going back on as I have a replacement, but I would still prefer not to damage it during removal.

 

They used red loctite one the threads so all the way out there was resistance.
I made the tool with a 4" piece of 2" black pipe, four 3/8" bolts and nuts, and 3/4" square tube for the handle.





As for the puller, just a regular balancer puller. I placed the extra thick washer over the bolt hole to use as my center.


A pry bar across the bolts to keep that from turning as I tightened.
A trick I found after fighting with it for a while was once the pressure in on the puller, give it a smack with the hammer to loosen the tapered collar on the crank.

 

The third generation tensioners with the 'pin' operate like a ratchet. Once extended they cannot be pushed back in.

 

Testpoint,

Are you saying I can't leave the new secondary tensioners in place?

I expressed to Chris at Christopher's Foreign Car Parts that I wanted a kit that included everything BUT the secondaries as I had just purchased those from him, and installed them, a few months ago. He said no problem and quoted me for said kit. I would like to think if my plan was a bad one he would have warned me (not to mention gotten a bigger sale).

I was intending to circle the tensioner with a large wire-tie to "freeze" it in place while I switch chains. I am just about to start taking everything apart now. Will this NOT work?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Not sure how to hold the tensioner shoe down but you need to in order get the chain back on.

 

The crank pulley came off fairly easily and the lockdown tools worked perfectly holding the cams and crankshaft in place.

While I was taking off the chains and plastic timing gear, the pivot bolt holding the right hand side (passenger USA) outer guide, snapped off.

 

That's a bummer..

 

So the pivot bolt that snapped; it is the first $50 bolt I've ever run across. It's a simple item so the cost makes no sense. It's obviously not a high grade steel item (it snapped) so the reason a basic pivot bolt would be $50 is beyond me. Anyway...

The part number is NCA2028AA. I have searched for a Ford/Lincoln cross reference number as it's probably the same bolt the Lincoln LS from the same era used, since it also uses the same chain guides. I can't find a part number. I was HOPING I could pick one up at the Ford dealer for, I don't know....LESS than $50?

I will be removing the snapped end of the bolt from the engine block in the morning and then trying to source a new bolt. Any advice for said sourcing would be greatly appreciated.

 

I've search but no Lincoln numbers come up. Try your local dealer but don't think it will be stocked. (But you never know)
I did find the Jag part for $42.

 

So, the attached picture (VVT adjuster tool) fits the slots on my to VVT pulley assemblies. The "Blackonyx" instructions don't mention anything about this tool. I saw some vague references in another thread instructing to turn the tool counter clockwise all the way to the fully retarded position.

Should I be making any adjustments with this tool?

Thanks,

 

Based on my research it appears I just insure that the VVT pulley assembly is turned all the way counter-clockwise (fully retarded position) as a baseline for setting the timing. This is apparently where the special tool I pictured in my last post comes into play. It also appears this has to be done AFTER the pulley is installed and tensioned, since when I turn it with the special tool while it's not on the car it just spins.

I don't want to get everything back together and have to go back in to re-adjust anything, so if someone has feedback on my theory above, please share.

 

You must return the VVT to the home , or retarded position as you tighten the cam lockdown bolt = the cam flats are a valid position only when the VVT is fully retarded. Some folks here are very vocal that you do not need to worry about this but several others have ended up with their cams mistimed. I THINK the VVT has a spring and will tend tpo the retract position, but the Jag procedure and the tool are designed to assure it is so. to assure