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Hi, new to the forum and have a question. Might not be asking in the right way, I apologize. I did both my secondary tensioners recently using the zip tie method. I wasn't given the step in the instructions given where you rotate the engine to position the cams at a point with minimal tension so that was not done. So the drivers went smoothly, virtually no tension. The passenger side was a problem.....there was quite a bit of tension. Once all the caps were off the came wouldn't come out. It seemed the valve tension had wedged the cam in. I reinstalled the caps, torqued them and then removed them again more gradually. This time the cam was not easy to lift out as on the drivers side but did come out with a pull. I made sure none of the lobes, journal or caps had been scratched and continued the job. Once completed the car cranked but would not start. Along the way I didn't take note of the "flats" on the cams and their alignment. I also noticed that even with the zip tie in place it is possible to rotate the cam slightly even thought the sprocket and chain are still attached. So Im thinking I might have rotated the cam ever so slightly but enough to throw off the timing. Im thinking I need to open it up again and rotate the engine until the flats are visible and make sure they are aligned. Atleast I hope that all I need to do...…..
Did you set the flywheel first before you dis-assembled? My kit came with a oval pin that fit into an oval slot on the flywheel. With the flywheel locked and the flats on the cams facing upward, the timing should be good. Picture of the flywheel alignment pin in place. Cam flats facing upward before I bolted the bar across them.
...I did both my secondary tensioners recently using the zip tie method... Im thinking I need to open it up again and rotate the engine until the flats are visible and make sure they are aligned. Atleast I hope that all I need to do...…..
Use the correct procedure outlined in the Workshop Manual along with the correct tools to properly set the camshaft timing. Given the age of the vehicle, the primary timing chains, guides and tensioners should also be replaced as the become brittle, crack and fall into the sump.
If you rotate the crankshaft to obtain the correct timing alignment, it must only be rotated in a clock direction, when viewed from the front of the vehicle, or damage to the main and rod bearings is the result.
I too have just changed both Primary and Secondary chains, tensioners, and guides. Got another engine as mine lost compression somewhere (still don't know until I take the heads off). I had the new engine on a strong bench so fitting all the new stuff was easy with the cam covers and front cover off. It's also been well covered by a few owners so I won't go into that.
Just a note on the locking tool set, I got the this for only £68 (about $90)
I used the above, worked perfectly
Wonder how many posts this thread will end up with?.. lol
Paul