I just changed my own timing chain tensioners........HOW TO
#201
Originally Posted by test point : The engine serial number encodes the date the engine came off the engine assembly line. The conversion to metal tensioners occurred on August 13, 2001, thus a serial number of 010813xxxx (YYMMDDHHMM). There is no direct correlation between the engine serial number (date of engine assembly) and the VIN although a dealer can provide the engine number from the VIN.
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cjd777 (11-18-2014)
#202
Does this mean that if a 2nd gen tensioner fails and is dangerous, that the noise will be concealed/hidden to make it harder to detect one'e engine is at risk?
#203
Once a client came driving in with that noise, chain broke at the corner next to my garage, bent valves.
Only once, a client started their car and the way the plastic cap went through caused the secondary chain to hit the cylinder head and it broke immediately
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cjd777 (11-18-2014)
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You don't need the tools!
Actually Donzi you are right. You don't need the tools unless you are changing the chains and the front bottom guides as well as the chains. That's what the tools are made for. If you are just changing the upper tensioners you can loosen the bolt on the cam closest to tHe fender, just so we don't get confused here, but before you do that use two large wire ties to hold the chain to the cam sprocket. That way when you move it just enough to get the tensioner out the chain doesn't move from its correct position. Then you can slide tahe new one back, put the cam back down, put all the bolts in place including the cam caps and torque everything thing down. Typically 14lb. They are using this same method if you only want change the upper tentioner at the Jaguar shops now. It easier, quicker, and keeps everything in time. Oh yeh, don't forget to cut the wire ties off!
#208
My gosh! What a thread. I will throw in that I did my secondary tensioners with the zip tie method about 9 months ago with absolutely NO problem. That was the first time I did it. I did use a long breaker bar to hand turn engine to find the spot where all tension was released to the valves of that bank before I loosened the cam caps.
Got the tensioners from Ford for $ 61.00 one side and $ 64.00 the other (curious?). Gasket was about $ 50.00. Took this first-timer less than 5 hours.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...nsioners-8182/
Got the tensioners from Ford for $ 61.00 one side and $ 64.00 the other (curious?). Gasket was about $ 50.00. Took this first-timer less than 5 hours.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...nsioners-8182/
Last edited by robertjag; 09-03-2014 at 02:49 PM.
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JimC64 (09-02-2014)
#209
#210
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Will P (05-31-2018)
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Brake Buster and All, I feel like I'm flogging a dead horse here but inquiring minds want to know.
I have a 2000 and Dave and others in the area have tensioners to be done, now or down the road. The tie method has and is of course proven to work and I see no problem doing it except for the many cam bolts and caps being moved.
My question is, since I have one set of locking tools, would it not be easier to lock the one side, undo the front sprocket, move to the side while sliding out the old, in with the new, sprocket back on, rap it up and do the other side. Would this be a good or bad thing????
Maybe put a tie on just to be safe.
Thanks, Wayne
I have a 2000 and Dave and others in the area have tensioners to be done, now or down the road. The tie method has and is of course proven to work and I see no problem doing it except for the many cam bolts and caps being moved.
My question is, since I have one set of locking tools, would it not be easier to lock the one side, undo the front sprocket, move to the side while sliding out the old, in with the new, sprocket back on, rap it up and do the other side. Would this be a good or bad thing????
Maybe put a tie on just to be safe.
Thanks, Wayne
#217
If the chains remain in a constant relationship to the sprockets, the timing cannot change. Can't - as it it's impossible.
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cjd777 (11-18-2014)
#218
The tools are necessary if you are upgrading/renewing primary and secondaries. The pros on this forum are purists (as they should be to be most helpful for us DIYers) and believe doing just secondaries is wrong. From the beginning of this thread, and the many others related, you will see the argument for and against the tie method and use of the tools. But, if you select the zip tie method, first assure alignment of intake and exhaust cams, then turn the engine to the point with the least spring tension on the exhaust cams. Zip tie it without unloading cam tension almost assures a broken cam shaft at start up. And a careful reading will show many other keys for success. Way, way back a forum member noted PATIENCE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOL YOU HAVE.
Last edited by Jhartz; 11-18-2014 at 07:00 PM. Reason: fixing Siri's screwups
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cjd777 (11-18-2014)
#219
All, I know that doing the complete upper and down, chains, the full lot, would be the way to go, time and money being no problem. The upper (secondary) has been replaced multiple times and has enable engines to continue to function for a extended period of time by correcting a design flaw. I understand it's a band aid before major surgery and getting approval from someone that has to guarantee their work is asking too much. I just need to know if the locking tool on one side with a tie will keep things in alignment. I'm trying to keep from getting anything wacky on cam caps or bolts, not that it's anything major, just been there done that, sort of thing.
Thanks, Wayne
Thanks, Wayne