Have you checked condition of vacuum feed from engine to EFI ECU?

 

OK, good news. You absolutely MUST work through the fuel system methodically and carefully tank to fuel rail. I have just re-read this entire thread. There were pointers about it being a fuel issue very early on, which you diagnosed for yourself, as it ran on starting fluid very well right at the start. Then you had all sorts of electrical issues including wires wrongly connected/not connected etc etc. These have been fixed and this fixing is NOT time wasted. If you read post 78 and 79 you were given fuel delivery maintenance suggestions. Also, you were warned very early on by lots of posters that this had to be a full going-through of the car to get it right and reliable. Therefore, do not worry that this is what you are having to do!
This is what I suggest you do to fix the fuel delivery problems:
Remove battery and undo cover below the battery to see the sump fuel tank
This small tank is gravity fed from the main tank. Check that this gravity feed line is clear and that it is not collapsing inside, renewing it if you are not sure it is OK.
Remove the locking ring on the sump tank outlet to the pump and withdraw the outlet spout. See second diagram below, parts 16, 17, 18 and 22. On the inside end of this is a "sock filter" to protect the pump from debris, this gets blocked and also deteriorates so renew it
Clean out all the rubbish in the bottom of this small tank
You say you have renewed the pump, so did you do the main filter, after the pump behind the spare wheel, if so, are you sure you connected the filter in the right direction? When the filter is in its holder fuel from the pump MUST flow in the direction of the arrow on the filter canister
While the filter is off, disconnect the fuel feed just before the engine bay fuel rail and blow through the line, back to front with compressed air
When all is reassembled in the boot (trunk) test that the fuel delivered to the rail by the pump really shoots out of the engine bay delivery pipe, disconnect it just before the FPR on the RHS (US passenger side).
The car in OEM spec has two fuel pressure regulators, one on the inlet, one on the outlet. Undo the INLET (US passenger side FPR) and test that fuel comes OUT of it just as strongly as it was coming out of the delivery pipe when you tested it. In fact if you wish you can dispense with this side FPR completely and bypass it, blocking off the inlet manifold vac pipe. But as long as the fuel comes strongly out of this RHS FPR no need to worry.
The FPR on the US driver's side is the one that controls the pressure in the fuel rail (part no.17 in the last diagram below). This may well have failed, so it is a good plan to replace it, as if all tests out OK up to this point, it is odds-on that this is the reason the fuel pressure is too low to run the engine when you rev it. Rockauto have them, not too bad price-wise.
But, before replacing the LHS FPR on the outlet side back to the tank, blow through the return line back to the fuel tank (IMPORTANT take the filler cap off the tank before doing this).
Diagrams of all this:




If all this checks out OK, then you should have fuel pressure and the car should run OK, providing the cause you have identified is the right one, but I do think it is, from what you have just said. If after this it does not, then your new pump is failing to deliver the correct pressure, you can test fuel rail pressure, but it is not easy.
Greg

 

Thanks Greg, I'll do this.

I was also wondering, going to multi task something, there is a splitter or some sort of canister "y" thing behind the tower my tps is sitting on. I think I followed my brake lines to it and there seems to be some fluid all over it. Am I assuming correctly that this may be where my brake leak issue is? I know when I have looked before under the jag that there has been fluid leaking in the center dripping down my exhaust. COuld this be where it is leaking?

 

I think the Y you are referring to is engine oil related not brake. The associated pipework handles cam feed and Gauge sender and warning light switch should be fitted to the Y shaped bit also. Those senders leak quite often making an oily mess. If removing or fitting senders you must be very careful as the fitting can break.

 

I'm talking about the canister with the plastic thing on the top of it with the banjo metalic tubing hose connectors with hallow screws and the plastic thing on top of it. There is 1 wire connector coming out of it. Is that plastic thing the oil pressure sensor? Is it seriously plastic?

 

My gauge sender is metal (number 22) but has a rubber sleeve covering. Number 7 in other diagram is oil pressure warning light switch. Number 1 in pipework diagram attaches to number 19 in engine block diagram which is the part I thought you were talking about.

 

It sits directly under the cross over tube at the back of the engine, just behind the tower that the potentionmeter capstan sits on. It is the thing that hinders a socket with an extention to pull the rear right spark plug. Kind of looks like this. Just a very quick drawing from memory. Proportions are off. .... lol

 

That looks like the sender and it's mount (#19 and 22)and the pipework attached by the banjo bolt as per diagrams in my previous post.

 

Oh ok, yeah I see it now. The second pic didn't show up for me until now. Yeah that's it.

I can use a smaller sending/pressure unit can't I? As long as it matches the hole and threads? I show a few that I can use. The big style in the pic or the slender style.

 

There's only a little oil on the top of it though. Thought it was part of my brakes.
The brakes have me baffled too. Haven't been able to trace under the car yet, and have seen no brake leak anywhere. Wheels or anything. Once the car is on, pedal hits the floor. Once I get the car running...... I will bleed the brakes in hopes that's all it is.

 

GREG..................................

I just looked again at your fuel diagrams.....

The more I look at it, the more I think the previous owner hooked things up backwards. Pump and filter as they said they changed them. My pump is facing the other way as the sump tube is bigger and has a bigger hose that matches the pump bottom end. I am going to have to go look at it when I get a chance and compare it to someone elses setup. Hope someone can take a pic for me so I can compare. I may have mine backwards but have the pump running in reverse. Maybe that's what my problem is. Maybe reverse isn't as strong as forward? I hate PO's.... More over, I should have looked at a real diagram when replaceing the replacement in the first place....

 

Is there a way to close off the main tank to the sump? Like a hose you can pull off and plug or pinch? That way you can get the sump tank out without messin with the main?
Or is a total draining what needs to be done.... I live in an apartment and don't have the gas cans to do so.......

 

Clamp off the 1/2 inch hose should do it.

 

Ok thanks. wasn't sure if I had to do more than the one.

 

Ok, so I finally found someone to come empty my tank. Took the gas for fuel for their travel. Fuel looked a little like diesel fuel so I know it was pretty bad. Today I felt a little froggy and decided to try and remove the fuel and sump tank. Removed all of the visible fuel and vent lines, as well as the filler neck(pain in the ****.) Removed the straps and everything in the way like battery tray and so on. This darn thing still doesn't want to move a millimeter at all. Are there other secure point for the fuel tank in an 1982 jaguar xjs?

By the way, Whe I pulled the sump there was almost an inch of rust junk in the bottom of the tank. Sock filter was toast and coated like a rust painted tube. Opened the main fuel tank through the sending unit, and say good sized flakes through the hole. Trying to get this thing out so I can take it down the road to a shop to have it cleaned. Thing will not budge after the above efforts......

 

Maybe stuck to padding on bottom and sides with that in turn stuck to body. The tank is more or less only wedged in the body opening and once straps and filler neck are removed it should be free to move.

 

Any ide of how to unstick it? There is literally no room to try and pry it upwards by the looks of it. Get a stong flat piece of metal and hammer it in under it and wiggle it around to tare up the padding? Padding will prolly be toast anyway huh?

 

All good news that you are getting to the heart of the matter. Well done. NO HAMMERING or you will perforate and deform the tank. There are inch thick foam pads each side and a thin foam layer under the tank. These will have stuck in place as described by Baxtor.


Get a very thin, very long carving knife, or similar, or a long steel ruler etc, and slide/carve it downwards each side and along the bottom of the tank. All along the bottom and down both sides. Then start working it as best you can - there is a diagonal seam each side you can just about grip and the filler spout is a good lever - and eventually it will start to shift. Patience is required. Even when they are not stuck fast they are sods to remove.
Greg

 

Mine had a screw from the heat shield underneath thru the floor into the tank. Found my leak.

 

Ok.............

I got the tank out finally using the method stated above. Went to work and bought a 36 inch by 2 inch piece of aluminum and turned it into a small sword by putting tape on the end like a handle. Had the neighbors in my apartments looking at me like I was gonna start killin people like Jason on Friday the 13th... lol...
Anyway....
Wedge it under the tank and jerked it back and forth and side to side. Tank came loose. Pulled the tank with ease after that.

I also bought some pea-gravel at work. Put some in the tank and shook the shyt out of it and tilted it side to side and this way and that way and up way and down way and every way... Needless to say, I shook the hell out of it off and on for 2 hours....

Now.... The hard part is to get that crap out. It seems there is a little divider or some kind of maze inside the damn tank!!! I have rolled that thing around and tilted and shook to get the gravel out. So far I think I have half of it out. I only put 4-5 handfulls of the pea gravel in it. Needless to say I have swept up enough rust dust to cover a full parking spot. I can still hear the gravel tumblin around in there. I am goint to continue to tumble and shake the rest out tomorrow. It is just a pain in the rear getting it out. I am thinking about making a small half funnel to jam inside the sending unit hole to catch the rest f the dust and gravel on each other passing tilt of the tank. It worked a little bit when I ripped a cig pack open and tried using it, so I am thinking something bigger and more sturdy should work. Any suggestions?