My '02 VDP front-suspension got "the clunk" and I've got very little time for auto-maintenance right now, so my plan is to replace all the typically-failing parts in one mechanics visit.

Please tell me if I got everything AND IN THE CORRECT QUANTITIES, and if there is anything that I should add, or is unnecessary to swap out.

The car has got 140k-miles, current orange-color shock mount rubber is visibly dried out.

Shock Mount, front upper, right
Shock Mount, front upper, left
x2 Shock Mount, front lower
x2 Sway Bar Bushing
x2 Control Arm Bushing, upper
x2 Control Arm Bushing, lower
x2 Sway Bar Link
x2 Tie Rod End, outer

Getting this all from Rock Auto.

Also, the Lower Shock Mount is only available for the XJ8, not the VDP, is the VDP suspension the same as the XJ8?

 

You need 4 of each control arm bushing.

Your upper and lower balljoints are almost certainly done at that mileage, so they should be changed.

3 out of my 4 balljoints had serious play in them, a 2002 car with 133K miles.

 

Another thing : you should also change the brake hoses.

 

Here's a dealer shot breakdown...try this link for the details of those parts (2002 Jaguar Vanden Plas Parts - Orlandopremierparts.com - Parts & Accessories for Infiniti & Jaguar). Its my local dealers site here in Orlando, they have descent exploded views.

Orange for your bushings, green & blue to be checked and/or replaced....


Sorry, I changed colors on the ball joints (oops), but you get the point.

 

Are the balljoints that component that is impossible to remove from the control arms? I think I had them done on my last car and it took the mechanic about an hour with power-chisel to get the old ones out - and that car had half the mileage of my Jag... Are we talking the same part?

FYI, I'm not trying to swap everything for kicks, just what is likely to be needed so it is unlikely to need follow up work done.

 

Blue on the 2nd exploded view is your ball joints. Like I stated, they should be checked for probable replacement. Yes they can be a mother, but if your mechanic had used a proper ball joint remover/reinstaller tool, he would had just needed a long torque wrench and a nice 4lb maul to coax it out as he exerted pressure with the tool.
Another way is to use a 20 ton press.

 

Highhorse, I'm an amateur auto-tinkerer with a background in engineering, so I get the mechanics of all this, but I can't name all the parts without a key to match up to the numbers in your images

Reading the other threads, it sounds like the Control Arm Bushings are also excessively difficult to remove, are they important to swap out too?

re: if your mechanic had used a proper ball joint remover/reinstaller tool
FYI, I've always taken my cars to chop shops for repair, Jag included - besides the much lower price, I find the results are better - typically due to their ingenuity and knowledge that they only get paid upon successful repair, and it is a pre-negotiated flat-rate for the fix, not by the hour so they don't have incentive to break other stuff or keep you waiting all day.

 

That stated neat little link I included in blue describing the source, has all the part numbers and there names.

 

Jaguar does not sell the lower independent of the arm. The OEM is available -- from all accounts not the easiest thing to R&R .. and do correctly.

If you google -- you should find a TSB covering some of this. Jaguar had an issue with some the early bushings -- the replacements are the same as the rears.

 

Wheel play became unreasonable - just (now) ordered all the parts ($455!) including Mark's suggested ball joints. Thank you all for the feedback!

Will I need a new alignment after this job? (I realize it is suggested, but will the part-swap mess up the alignment?)

 

Yes, and you can get an alignment at NTB (or affiliates Tire Kingdom, Big O tire) and it transfers even if you sell this one. Compare that to $90 for a one shot deal and I think that says it all. Firestone has a $99 lifetime unlimited one, but once you sell that vehicle that ends. I seriously recommend the NTB one, especially if your going to be doing more front or rear end work later or in your case, driving on those horrid NYC roads is reason enough. Have to keep the girl goin' straight.

 

My last alignment stayed perfect for 5 years until the tie rods got very loose, I'm not worried about lifetime warranties, if the next alignment lasts the same the car will be 20 years old by then...

What is the likelihood of a tie rod breaking or disconnecting if it already has a lot of play in it (moves easily 1 full cm by hand)? I'm contemplating how much driving I need to do prior to the parts arriving...

The tires are toast already and all other wear parts are being swapped out, so my only concern is not having a sudden vehicle loss of control.

 

I agree with HH, if you live in a pothole full place up north get the lifetime one.

 

"What is the likelihood of a tie rod breaking or disconnecting if it already has a lot of play in it (moves easily 1 full cm by hand)?"

That's a joke, right? With that kind of play in the tie rods, they could fail at any time. Think about it, it's a ball in a socket. If you can move the ball in the socket, that means the ball is now much smaller than the socket, so it could come right out.

I recently saw what happens when a tie rod fails, on highway 880. This car in the right lane looped around to the left, right in front of me, and slammed into the central barrier, ending up facing into traffic with half the car in the left lane. I don't know if he survived, but I can tell you that he wasn't moving when I passed him.

My worst fear would not be getting killed, but surviving and killing someone else, especially a child.

Your next drive should be a very, very slow one, directly to the shop.

 

I did exactly this, but with shocks, wheel bearings, front subframe front and rear mounts, and lastly tie rod ends. Good luck with your install!

 

Ummm, no

Wow, wasn't aware of that... I just assumed that the ball-socket was not the weak part but rather the excessive play could cause the rod to bend/break from the constant movement.

How do you know what you saw on 880 was a tie rod failure and not someone just swerving violently for any of many potential reasons, like passing out at the wheel?

 

I'm not trying to bear down on you vdpnyc, but can you guarantee you will not hit one of those potholes with say the rear wheel to where you might have to have it reshimmed and then aligned? ...she's getting up there in age as you said. Do you want to make your tires last as long as possible? I have mine aligned every R&B (rotate & balance), yours is a VDP, long wheel base, its important to keep it straight to help prevent tie rod and/or ball joint failure and keep from buying tires before needed. The weight of that car when misaligned and putting undo pressure on the suspension can cause premature failure.
Just saying, its your call.....

 

I'll jump past this side discussion and add my quick thoughts. I did all the same parts but not in one big job.

I would consider doing the subframe mounts while everything else is done. I replaced both V-mounts ($50 for both or something) and the ones I took out looked a bit rough. The other subframe mounts, the round ones in back were actually in really good shape. Just a thought.

 

What's a subframe mount? Where is it and what does it do?

Highhorse, I only balance when mounting new tires, and have yet to ever rotate on the Jag, lol

Your advice is very good - just that cost of alignment is not my concern since it seems to retain alignment for many many many years.

 

FYI, I added x2 shock absorbers to the list as per mechanic's suggestion