Can you get access to an OBD reader than can trend chart variables? You are now showing open loop fule control, so your lambda sensors could be suspect. MAF is generally diagnosed by substitution or elimination of alternate diagnosis, but you are getting close to needing to try that. To check for leaks, I recommend examining (with your eyes!) your full load breather, the tube running from the cam cover to the intake plenum on the RH side of th engine. Then check for cracks on the plenum (the snorkel looking thing) at the resonator stub. Then the connection from the plenum to the TB. If it is an air leak, it is a big one and you might even hear it whistling.

 

Post #8 has the link to the repair manual and in post #10 I included a page from that manual...now you get to read it to determine your next actions to chase it.
I also recommend doing a search for the code and see what others have concluded in those threads..... there are a number of issues involved with this.

 

If that was a hot engine it should not idle (or rev a bit) with Open loop.

P0506 is a generic code you can readily read about but as the workshop manual is a free download it's likely the best place to go looking for codes etc - and it even lists known causes for each code.

With the cat damage that's occurring worst case is new cats, next worse is pay someone knowledgeable to fix car to avoid that.

 

Hello everybody and sorry for not responding.
Been on a vacation.

I started to dissemble the engine to see if i had a vaccumleak somewhere so i removed the intake manifold and cam covers. as soon as i removed the passenger side camcover i noticed there where quite a lot of metal flakes at the back. (Closest to the coupe and under the top camshaft). It seems like the lifter there has totally disintegrated.

do anybody know what could have caused that?
What else could be damaged except the camshaft itself? (camshaft has no visible damage)
Is this the root to all my issues?
Would it work just to change that one lifter?

Thanks everyone for all the help.

 

Can you include a pic please, ....usually the cause for failure in that area is a clogged oil journal or poor oil pressure. Also, if you have metal on top, almost for sure you'll have it down below. Removal of the oil pan is very simple and has a built in reusable gasket. Your going to want to make sure you have all those shavings out of there.
You don't have lifters, you have overhead cams.

 

I changed the oil and filter just before I left for my vacation and since it was running very poorly I really looked close at the oil and filter when i changed it and i didn't see even a trace of metal flakes.

I am going out now to take some pictures of it.

Also when I removed the intake manifold there was some oil in it. is that something to worry about?

Sorry about the lifter thing, what are those called? is it cam followers or something?

Thanks

 

 

Ok, I definitely want someone else to chime in on this, but it appears you've dropped a valve...your missing the whole assembly from what I can tell. Spring, keepers, cap and valve, all gone and it dinged your cam. That would explain your miss and why the end of that cam is so dry, the air was blowing it off.
Your going to have to pull that head and see if it can be fixed. You'll need to have that cam looked at also, I'm not sure if either can be repaired from just the pics it will need magnafluxed for cracks? There's also a possibility the piston may be damaged? But you won't know until you pop the head.
Be sure to set your timing to TDC and lock it in place (follow the timing chain/tensioner replacement procedure for that) before removing anymore pieces. I am not positive, but those look like plastic tensioners, if so, may as well replace those while your there.
As for you not having any metal in your oil, it may be because its in your filter, but I bet you have some in there.

 

HighHorse asked me to drop by and take a look.

The pictures are hard to see but if you have lost a cam bucket,
then it's heads off time. The cam bucket could have been wiped
out for a couple of reasons. Lost the case hardening, the cam lobe
had a nick in it, there was insufficient clearance, etc.

The cam can be lifted out for a better view without losing time if
you use the zip tie method for changing the upper tensioner and
go just as far as lifting the cam to the side. Where you are now,
you would only have to go look at the procedure and get a few
zip ties. The rest is already done.

The upper tensioner itself is the newer metal version. The timing
chain is the later morse style.

The engine is not sludged, but it is certainly blacker than one would
like. The two closest journals aren't looking great.

A used head from a 2001+ naturally aspirated engine would be the
cheapest, least complicated fix since it should come with the cams,
etc.

Might as well do the famous heater hoses under the intake at the
same time.

 

Here are some more pictures.
How do i get the top camshaft off so i can see better underneath it?

 

Yep, you dropped a valve alright and then some. First off, in order to get the cams and that head off your going to have to pull the timing cover. Do a site search for "timing chain tensioner replacement" or variances thereof, there are many threads with pics. You need to lock your flywheel down properly first to keep time. Then remove the front cover which is also screwed to the head. You'll see in those posts.
Read it in this...JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

So I've been starting to look around for another head, anybody know of a good place to get them?

Thanks once again for all your help

 

Have you looked in the Marketplace at the top of the page, also check with Coventry West, they have used parts. Plus there are plenty of auto salvage site links where you fill in what your looking for and they respond and you choose from the respondent's. Have you tried contacting any local yards?

 

Hello again.
The parts I've ordered are starting to come in, will get the new head on Wednesday.
Got the all the gaskets and that stuff and also the cam locking tool. But how do you use the cam locking tool. I know that you clamp the cams down but what else do I need to do to be able to get the pulley off so I can take that tinny cover off and get somewhere.

Thanks!

 

This has pictures and very good details on doing tensioners. Your doing somewhat the same thing, except removal of the head, so obviously use what you need to help complete your task. Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement

This procedure is also in the link I gave you earlier in post #8 of the Jag repair manual.

 

Hello again,

It's been awhile but now finally I have gotten the new head on and I had everything assembled so I started the car. It wasn't running exactly smooth but it was better than before. Now the idle in P is almost 1000 and then it drops to below 500 when its in R or D.
What is wrong now?

This is how the cams shafts look.


In my mind they look like they are supposed to.


[IMG]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-image_4a4eb0eba27215857c651af094459cd0a3c07446.jpe g[/

What can I do?
It gets the restricted performance and some error codes.
The error codes are misfires.

Really need help.

Thanks

 

 

Your idle will be high until it learns itself again. You'll probably have to drive it for about 30-45 miles so it can dial itself in. It possibly could clear itself after that?
Your timing may be off, can't tell initially, but can we get those codes please?
Are both cam flats parallel? The drivers side looks like they are, but it may be the passenger side isn't nuts on, perhaps a cog tooth off? But the angle of the pic and casting may be deceiving?
Also, your primary timing chain, is it tight?
Did you lock down the flywheel once you found the marks?
Have you done a compression test...what did the piston look like?
Also, if you still have it, could we get some pics of the old head from the valve side?
I sound like a 5 year old with all those questions....

 

Maybe it will. Don't really know.
Yes both are parallel.
Yes the primary is tight and what I saw it all looked good around there.
No I did not, I had it locked with a prybar the whole process.
The piston was in perfect condition, looked just like the others. I'll take a picture tomorrow of the head.
It was one valve that was slightly bent and then stuck like a little more than half open.
I have not yet done a comp test.

Thanks for your time!

 

The codes are:
1000
300
301
303
308