Thanks William
The 300 was a new one on me, but its...
- Faulty spark plug (s)
- Faulty ignition coil (s)
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
- Intake air leak
- Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
- Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinders compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure

Other than that, the multi misfires are easily 1,3 and 8...so you can at least concentrate on those with the previous info.

 

Thanks,

Then there is some I can rule out.
I have brand new coils
Fuel pressure is around 43

I will do that checklist tomorrow

Thanks for the help.

 

I have checked almost everything except compression which is my next step.
But I tried to dial in the cams but that just made it worse, way worse.
Before it started and ran ok but now it does not even start.
How do you know when the engine is in TDC? And is it when the engine is in TDC that the cams flat spots are supposed to be up and parallel?


Thank you all for helping.

 

It is not timed at TDC, is timed at 45 degrees after TDC. BOTH cams on both sides should have the flats up and parallel to the head, and the special timing mark hole on the flywheel should should align with the crank shaft position sensor.
So, turn engine so the elongated hole, or triangle mark on some engines lines up with crank sensor. Then set cams alignment.
The crankshaft timing holes for the sensor, all look similar, except for one.

 

Thank you.
Do you go in from underneath the gearbox, where that service hatch is to find the triangular or oval hole?

 

No. Remove the odd shape rubber plug from the engine side of the bellhousing.

When turning the engine over with a 24 mm socket on the crankshaft pulley, turn only clockwise as viewed from the front of the engine. The engine rebuild procedure says bearing damage could result if turned the other way.

 

Hello,

I've nog got the plug in the flywheel and removed can cover, timing cover, vvt and so on.
But there were 2 holes the plug could fit in. And in neither of them the cams were parallel.
I chose the one where it was the closest to being parallel but even so it looks like the intake cam has skipped at least one tooth.
But since the plug is in is it just to allign all of the cams now?

Thanks everybody!

 

ZYou need to follow the factory procedure which is defined here in the archives, in JTIS, available in the Stickeys, or Alldata DIY (for a fee). With luck, you have not already crashed your valves, but I guarantee you will if you keep blindly dicking with it!

 

I've given him all sorts of links, to include pics, of the procedures of how to do the timing (posts 8,31 and 35 blackonyx job). I guess some folks have money to throw away?

 

The timing plug would go in the hole after removing the crank sensor underneath. Even if you visually line up the timing mark with the sensor, then the cam flats should be parallel. Remember, 2 crank turns to one cam, so if you are turning the crank fully, the flats would be on the bottom or on the top, but would still be parallel, when the timing mark aligns with the sensor.