These are pictures of an XJ but it's the same type of diff from GKN, you can see the transmission end has one of the flex discs, but the diff end is a different arrangement.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...97/#post960840

You can also see the old design diff & propshaft which came out of the car, they had the big rubber doughnut type flex disc on them. The GKN diffs are different, there's some further explanation about the new design in that thread.

What you'd see at the F-Type diff is this;



But without the rust, I hope...

There's no jurid / flex disc there anymore.

 

Maybe some automotive engineers on this forum can chime in, but my understanding that 1 less flex disks replaced by anti-dump valve (aka Volvo valve) would make it a lot less reliable long-term.

No matter how good you are, you will mess up rev matching now and then and end up dumping torque into differential. With 1 less disks, there is a lot less protection from that.

 

Are you seeing this code?...by the way, will the Eurotoys crank pulley work with the V8 AWD?

 

You actually have three systems mitigating shock during a shift:
1. The Clutch Delay Valve that you mentioned,
2. the dual mass flywheel on the F-Type. (springs to isolate the input side of the flywheel from the output side), and
3. the remaining flex disc at the front of the prop shaft.

 

The P012B code is indicating an inlet restriction. Assuming rats or chickens didn't start building nests in your air filters, the sensor could simply be bad. The only code we were throwing was P0236, simply because the OEM tune didn't anticipate 20 psi boost at 6400 rpm and it was outside the mapped area. VAP and Eurotoys have both resolved that issue with their tunes.

 

hehe..are those codes from the test files? They haven't been tuned to work nicely with the sensors yet.



Actually, I just want to take a minute to praise "cbroth1" and thank him for his commitment. When we were having trouble finding tester cars. He stepped up and has helped us do numerous amounts of test files to help figure out what will work great and what will pretty much leave you stranded in limp mode.

...thanx bud!!


I believe the crank pulley is the same on 3.0 and 5.0..it's just the supercharger pulley that's different...

The OBD pids don't seem to log actual boost, just the MAP after the throttle body (unless you have Jaguar SDD access and can log the charge cooler pressure sensor). What unhingd dyno operator did was tap into the evap feed line port, then got an actual reading vs a filtered reading through the pcm. (if you have a vacuum/boost gauge, it's the right way to do it)

 

+1. The lower for both engines is identical. The upper pulley on the V8 is 66mm diameter and the V6 is 62mm. The smallest upper pulley I have found is 60.5mm, so not worth the effort to swap out the upper V6 pulley.

 

No problem Chris/Stuart, I like to find the limits. Yes, that code was from a test file, which only occurred on one particular alpha test file iteration.

As to the evap vacuum circuit tap, any pics would be great...before I get out the exacto knife!

 

I figured someone would ask. Here's the location:
Picture taken for left side of car. Tap is located at the back of the intake manifold on the left hand side. Arrow shows where you need to tap the boost.


Here's a pic of the Rube Golberg contraption we used (taken from right side of car) to tap into that line:


No exacto knife used!

 

Where did you mount your boost gauge? Or is it just temporary for tuning/logging while on the dyno?

 

Very clever!

 

Just for tuning purposes. Pressure tube hooks straight up to the Dynapack dyno for logging with the rest of the collected data. Downstream, if possible I'd like to figure out how to feed data into the touch screen to create graphic analog displays for boost, temp and oil pressure. I have other priorities right now for the Jag.

 

I don't fully get that routing, did you pull the metal nipple out of the Barack of the intake manifold? And did you plug the hole? In any case wouldn't you want to reference from the manifold side? Since the check valve will only flow in vacuum.
Why am I missing?

 

Effectively, what you have is a "T"-connector with the leg of the T (blue in the photo) serving as the tap for the boost sensor on the dyno.The top top part of the T has a male tube fitting adaptor (metal nipple) on one end and a female tube fitting adaptor (plastic fitting like the OEM one near the check valve). The female end hooks to the nipple in the manifold and the male end snaps in at the check valve. Car circuitry remains intact with a boost tap available.

 

@Unhingd. I have a question now that I see what this tune can do. I currently have a F-Type S on order, but I still have room to make changes, does it still make sense to get the S, when I can get the same performance with a tune on the F-Type (base) Premium? I am not curious what do I gain from having the S, that might be worth it? Do you have any insights on what is the big gain other than HP/TQ that the S provides?

 

You get active dampers, a mechanical limited-slip diff, and bigger brakes on the S.

 

+1. as well as panoramic roof panel, switchable active exhaust and availability of optional Super Performance Brakes with torque-vector braking. To me, all that was worth the difference, even though I knew I would be tuning the car anyway when I bought it. You have to evaluate this based on your own priorities. If you are looking just for more power, buy the base. If you want better overall cornering and braking, stick with the V6S.

 

+1.. Master has spoken =)

 

The biggest immediate advantage I saw to the S is the limited-slip differential. I also wanted the even bigger brakes the configurable dynamic mode. The configurable dynamic mode is the least useful to me: I set it up and now never touch it. I continue to be irked that we don't get opposed piston calipers. I'm pretty sure that Brembo makes some that would fit :/

I actually was a little surprised that the base model has an open diff, but I suppose many buyers just won't care, or even notice. RWD and 340+ HP seems to call for it, but I've often found myself in the minority with my opinions.

 

Even my 110 hp Bugeye Sprite road racer needed a locker to maintain traction under power through a tight turn. I believe an LSD is de rigueur for any sport or GT car.