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Ok - that's my next task for Saturday. I was retired for a few years but now I'm back managing a bank and I have a busy week coming up. Saturday I will pick back up where I left off today. I am so grateful for everyone here and the help you have all been. I'm sure it will get sorted out and my car will be back on the road but it will be running not on premium fuel but on the good comradeship of this forum and it's members.
Maybe unrelated to your problem, but I have a Chrysler that will behave that same way depending on which key I use. With one key it starts and then turns off after a few seconds. Swap the keys and it runs fine. I suspect it is the chip that is giving me issues.
I got in late last nice to an amazing surprise! A box (heavy) with BobRoys name on it!!! Wow - what a nice gesture !!!!
I have 3 days of sunny weather before the rain starts back up again. I hope to get the "donor" part installed then. I really hope this cures the problem. When I got home I tried the other key (just in case never overlook an easy fix) thanks to Member "mhminnich" and the car started right up and ran ok for about 3 minutes and then shut down.
The installation looks straightforward if I can get the electrical disconnected. I seem to think there might be two connections on the driver's side of the TB but I'll sort that out on Saturday.
I'm hoping this Throttle body does the job otherwise, I'm dreading a fuel pump fix.
Many many many many thanks to you BobRoy and Gus!!!
UPDATE: I replaced the throttle body today with the donor from BOBROY. Fuel pressure a constant 40lbs. Replaced the throttle body relay in the engine mgt compartment. Same problem. Codes P1224 - P1240 P1241
My next step would be to check the grounds and the plugs at the plug tower behind the TB. If that does not fix the problem I would be looking at the ECM plug and the ECM
Thank's Gus. You are right - there is not much room back there - My hands are all torn up from doing the TB alone. I've refreshed the ground in the truck. I will look in the engine bay tomorrow
My next step would be to check the grounds and the plugs at the plug tower behind the TB. If that does not fix the problem I would be looking at the ECM plug and the ECM
This morning I decided to check the ECU for its basic condition. Removal was straightforward.
Front engine compartment. Rt side (passenger) Four screws are needed to be able to lift the ECU cover.
ECU Cover lifted exposing the connectors and unit. Unplug connectors and the ECU unit lifts up and forward to remove.
lifting the ECU out once the connectors are removed.
The unit was factory sealed and looked brand new. I was looking for leaky capacitors or burned traces but this 20 year old board looked cleaner than my PC at home.
The connector pins looked new.
That project is done and I have confidence that if I need to pull the ECU to send it in for repair/reprogramming I know its an easy chore.
Absolutely Gus! Thanks. I started it again after and it ran a solid 3 minutes before grinding to a halt. rpms were not stable - they varied from 900 to 1800 during that time.
Brad, does the fuel pressure move at all. I just tested mine to see how the pressure changes.
Key on before starting 40lbs
Starting car and running at idle 35lbs
Give it some throttle and it will jump to 40lbs
Turn off ignition stays at 40lbs.