This may be a little long but here goes. I have fought 1384 and 1396 codes since I have had car. Tore into once and found broken VVT and bad connector. Replaced both vvts and connector. Have tested and have voltage going to vvts and can apply voltage and hear click. Hooked up oil pressure gauge and have 40-45 lbs pressure. Tore into again to check timing. Crank lock and cam locks in place. Left bank off slightly(fraction of inch). New style tensioners in good shape. Also left intake chain has slight amount of slack. Any suggestions?

 

What is a 'broken' VVT?

Couple questions:

Did you replace the tensioners? Did you tension the chains with the VVT's in the retarded position?

Have you replaced the primary tensioners/slippers/chains?

 

Don't ask me how but Vvt was broken in half. I have not done anything yet. I expected to find cam more out of time but like I said left bank was off ever so slightly (thousandth of inch). I don't think I've found problem yet so looking for suggestions before I proceed. I did replace both vvts earlier with ones off eBay.

 

I wonder if the chain slack goes away when the tensioners are pressurized with oil. ? As you know from another thread we shared, I am facing a similar issue (including a broken VVT), so will be interested to read answers here. Still wondering what the retarded VVT position is as there isn't any adjustment that I can see.

Re cam position: I used vice grips to adjust cam(s), then slid the cam lock over the flat. When the cam was a bit off, the edges of the flat interfere with the cam lock. I used the vice grip to turn the cam, then fastened the cam locks when they slid over the cams without interference.

..But I haven't finished the job yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt. Again, interested to hear what others have to say, so will say no more.

 

.

 

My cams were so close I thought I had locks in place. After removing tensioners and cam gear I rechecked locks and left side was slightly loose. How do you get vvts to retarded position?

 

I think I figured out how to retard timing. Looks like you have to remove front of engine and retard Vvt itself. I may have to do this as it looks like RH chain guide is thinner than LH side and top part of chain has slack. Am adding pic

 

Wait . . . wait . . . wait . . . .

The primary chains have nothing to do with the secondary cam alignment. Are we discussing crank to cam alignment or primary chain tensioner and slippers condition?

 

I am discussing what needs to be done to clear constant 1384 and 1396 codes and help ensure engine reliability. If I can get any help on this it would be much appreciated

 

I have installed crank lock, cam locks, removed new generation tensioners in excellent condition, removed exhaust cam bolts. Am now looking at intake chain on right bank and it has slack on the top side. Also, looking at slipper guide right bank is thinner than left. All this was started because I've had 1384 and 1396 codes since June of last year. I really need some suggestions. Thinking hard about removing front cover and replacing everything.

 

Rebuilding the entire cam drive is never a totally bad idea.

Are you asking about the secondary chain slack or the primary?

The secondary chain on the right hand side should be tight across the top with everything locked down. Loosen the exhaust valve cam bolt and use the chain tensioning wrench to hold the tension and tighten the exhaust cam bolt.

The reverse applies to the left hand side. Tight across the bottom.

If that doesn't resolve it have fun with the Full Monty.

 

The slack is in primary chain at top

 

On the right (passenger) side of my US car, the primary chain (that being the long chain at the front of the engine) is just a bit slack at the top of the guide that does not have the tensioner attached to it. (Forgive all the words. Just trying to be precise.) The other side of the chain is taught. I have no idea if this is correct, but have spent a lot of time messing with it, including loosening and tightening the VVT unit and re-compressing the tensioner and then pulling on the guide with the tensioner.

I am leaving in place the all aluminum guides, which I found to be brand new when I opened the engine. I also have a set of guides with a plastic strip on top of the aluminum, but decided to leave the aluminum guides in place. It is possible that the guides with the plastic strip are a bit thicker and take up that slack at top. However, my guess (hope) is that the tensioner will take up the slack when it gets oil pressure. So, I'm just going to leave that task, call it completed - having many more issues to tackle - and hope there are no funny noises inside the engine when I start it.

I don't know if this helps, but we seem to be working on the same problem at the same time and this is my approach. Again, this is my first time working on the problem, so if the experts wish to add their thoughts, I am all ears.


...And Test Point...I am leaving my hat on as there are many moving parts at the front of the engine.

 

I finally made the decision to replace all of mine. Have all parts, seals, and gaskets on order. Once I get crankshaft pulley off I'll open it up and see what I find. All new chains, sliders, and tensioners, and bolts.

 

Hi Dale,
I've been tuning in to the thread as the follow-up to your earlier VVT issues and just dropping by to wish you good luck with this. I know the codes have been hassling you for a some time now

I hate to add to your list, but 'while you're in there' it might be worth dropping the sump to check whether whoever did the previous secondary tensioner job cleaned up any plastic bits that might have ended up in there.

Mike

 

Regarding dropping the sump, you can look into the edge of the sump from above with the front cover off. You could probably feed a camera into the opening to look around (that is, if you, like me, hate to climb around under the car to drop the sump).

 

I really don't mind crawling around under it but have been looking for an excuse for a camera and while I'm that close I may as well go for it

 

The fiber optic cameras for connection to a smart phone have got so stupid cheap that I just bought one to see if it would work and it does.

US Stock 4 Led 5m USB Waterproof Endoscope Borescope Inspection Camera | eBay

Even a Milwaukee brand with its own screen is only a $100.

 

Most of the plastic will be drawn into the oil pump pickup screen, so dropping the pan is probably the only way to check.

 

Got it opened up and have couple questions. Guides are cracked but new ones are too long. Think I have that figured out as SNG Barrett has correct ones. My main problems is I can't find a way to retard timing. I have tool but it will not fit into Vvt unit and if it did I don't see anything for the two ears to turn. I have read on this and studied it all day but I'm stumped