We have moved from how to give your car a proper blow job to making sure it gets a gentle hand job. Isn't washing great!!!

 

I vacuum and bang out the floor mats as best I can then bring them into a shallow filled tub, scrub them with a light laundry detergent mix, really rinse well in the tub until clear, squeegee in the tub & then hang until dried. I do this twice a season.

 

If mine get that dirty I'll buy new ones. LOL

 

Hadn't thought about using the tub for this, great idea.

 

I saw this one, may give it a try.
http://a.co/eGGy2lh

 

For the mats do yourself a favor and pull them out every so often and use your house vacuum on them. The beater brush agitates out the ground in dirt better than just the suction systems alone.

I simply use my shop vac for the normal vacuum of interior, any discoloration of spills I fix with Resolve carpet cleaner.

 

That dog looks guilty.

 

I use a tough bristle brush and squeegee throughout the rinsing to speed it up.

 

For those who do not want to use a leaf blower or have an expense for a Air Force Master Blaster, a "water blade" is a viable alternative. Cost about $10.00

https://www.amazon.com/Original-Soft...ds=water+blade

Consider it. The "water blade" will remove 70 to 80% of the water on the surface.

 

I've used one of those for LONG time, really works well, but I wonder if it causes micro damage?

 

Of course it does. Anytime you drag something solid across the paint you will get marring. I use a merino wool mitt with plenty of suds for the wash and still occasionally get minor marring.


My paint is black which shows EVERY defect when in the sun or under a swirl light. I'm a tad retentive about the finish which is why I detail it twice a year...wash, clay bar, polish and wax. Obviously lighter colored paint won't show the defects anywhere near what a darker paint will but the defects will still be there.


Best,

 

How much I hate to admit this, I worked in an automated car wash in my high school/college days. This was a hard brush, contact setup and would leave swirl marks in paint. Today's touchless washes might be better, but one practice the automated car wash used was recycled water. Each month we would have to "clean the pits". There was some serious particulate and sludge in the tank.

I have an 08 XKR and in the colder months take it to the self service bays and soap/rinse it down. In the nicer weather I have an electric power washer and do it in the driveway. You actually use less water with the power washer than using a hose/sprayer. The electric units are pretty cheap and the reduced PSI seems a bit safer than some of the high power gas ones.

So self service bays in winter to get dirt off, electric power washer in warmer weather with a clay bar job and some nice wax/polish.

 

If it causes micro-damage that can't be seen I suppose it doesn't matter!

So the lesson in this thread is simple, there is no one way or any mandatory tool to wash your car. You must remove the ion's in your water unless you don't, using a blower is bad unless you are successful using one already, a water blade causes micro-marring unless it doesn't, time to get a waffle weave, scratch that I will save that tasty treat for breakfast, if you choose an automated wash you are abusive and borderline negligent but at least your car is nice and clean which is a requirement of these "premium" cars.

It is all good, time for me to stop obsessing over the perfect glass finish and get back to driving this beautiful ride hard!

 

Easy for you to say. You have a white car that hides all the micro-imperfections.

 

True that Wolf-man. That was choice by design, I had a Jet Black BMW for 6 years so I am well aware of how much more difficult a flat dark color can be to maintain and was not about to buy another black car. I kept it like glass for 6 years and learned how to wash, dry, and maintain without all the must-have items in this thread. It goes down to proper procedure and reasonable tools. A couple of buckets, microfiber towels, my Absorber, and an unfiltered hose.

My comment to Moses is still what it is, if he is using the blade and is told there is micro-abrasion but he has to ask if it is there since it isn't visible then what does it matter. The end result is what we are looking for, a clean, shiny, perfect looking paint. For the few who have vehicles that show the micro-bad stuff be aware and be more careful. Caveat Emptor my man, yes indeed.

 

I have always clayed, polished and waxed my Jags but I am going with the Ceramic Coating, the car will be prepped and the coating applied this weekend professionally

 

Speaking of coating the car. Mine has opticoat pro. At least I think that is the name for this opti variant. It was done 3 years ago, and supposedly was the formulation only sold to pros. Pro might have indicated that it was a tiny bot more concentrated than the consumer version if, again, I recall correctly. I had my weekend driven garaged, Jag treated and at the same time my daily driver, never garaged Hyundai Genesis. The jag still looks great, the Genesis not so much. So, I'd agree that in normal non-garage kept conditions 2-3 years is a good run.
Anyway, when my daughter soon buys a new or newish car, I want to get it coated with -something, as she is just as lazy as I am regarding waxing a vehicle. Is opticoat still a top sealant, or has something else become more popular and a better bet?
Sorry if this seems to be steering the thread in some other non-washing direction, but we seemed to have beat the suds outta that.

 

The opti-coat pro is well received but there are many options, you should review Rich's supply list in Post #5 of this thread, first page. He has great recommendations and I don't think you can go wrong with what he outlines in his attached documents.

My detailer used Infinite Juice Diamond Shield and I have been pleased with the results. Close to a year in and still strong on my nightly garaged XK, it does see sun/wind/rain here in abusive Florida. As I was told this product is his favorite as it has a slower setup time than the opti-coat so that correcting high spots or overly thick areas was easier.

 

I have a philosophical answer to the car wash question: It's mind over matter.

If you don't mind, it doesn't matter.

It's a car, built to be driven and enjoyed, and the paint will never be as good as the day it left the factory. So, when the ravages of time makes the paint no longer acceptable, get it repainted or wrapped. The extent to which one takes care of the paint varies depending on the individual. It matters only when you're no longer satisfied with the way it looks, which can be anywhere from less than a day to a week or more.

Enjoy your Jaguar - you can't take it with you through the Pearly Gates!

 

I use the water blade, but I may opt for the mini blaster also. The blade works great. My problem areas are the joins headlights to body, taillights to body, spoiler trunk finisher. It seems I'm chasing these drips two hours after I've dried the car.
As for the air compressor - too long to get the job done and the results are iffy. And regarding the leaf blower, well my family''s already tried to have me committed before. I think pics of me blasting my car with a leaf blower will only help their cause:-)