working up too it!

 

Hi Guys

Has anyone ever Used or Has a Compressed Air Grease Gun?

Although I have got Two - Lever operated Grease Guns, one standard size and one small size, I'm thinking of getting an Air powered one, as

they seem to be Surprisingly inexpensive.

I don't find the Lever type easy to use, because nether one has got a Flexible grease tube, making it hard to use in confined spaces.

So I might as well get an Air one rather than buy a flexible extension that might not fit, as my grease gun is quite an old one.

But are they any good?

There seem to be all over Amazon and Ebay

Recommendations Please

 

OB, by and large a good quality older grease gun is worth hanging on to. Flexible grease tubes are dirt cheap and easy to change. It is just such a pain to get the compressor cranked up just for 10 mins greasing. Electric ones rae brilliant, but silly money. Now there's a challenge for you, bargain King!
Greg

 

I bought a Hazet mechanical grease gun pump thing for like next to nothing. Works great, has a lever and gets into all the areas I need to grease - on thenXJ-S als well as XJ8...

 

Hi Daim

Just had a look at the Hazet Grease Guns.

Does yours have a flexible tube on the end?

 

Mine came with both... I have the model 2162-1, but 2162-2 is a good second version.

This the one on UK Amazon:


As I bought it on Amazon, it costed me a mere €16... And as Hazet is one of the best tool brands in Germany (like Proxon, SnapOn and Gedore), I thought it was a good price.

On my XJ I use the solid connector (for the drive shafts). On my XJ-S I use both connectors... Solid as well as soft/flexible.

 

Hi Daim

The Flexi Pipe is something that I need the most, as unless you get the Grease Gun in exactly the right position.

You get Grease leaking everywhere, instead of going into the Grease Nipple.

I've seen these on Amazon but unless you get a good one, then apparently they can kink up.

Not sure if it would be worth paying around £6-£10 for one, when for just a few more pounds you can get the whole thing.

 

I've three I think. Neither is of a top brand. I have both flexible and fixed pipes for each.


Early on in my Jaguar adventure, I decided to grease the chassis. Way back when, I worked in a full service station. Grease monkey, a part of my duties. Big air powered
unit there.


Well, It took a bit of on my back work. Several fittings refused to accept the lube. I had a tub full of new ones. That fixed most. I thought my air unit would surely have more PSI's than the levered ones. Not so at all. The levered ones cleared Zerks that the air failed.


Neat toy for the ideal? Yes, in less than ideal, not so much. And, as for me, the air line was more of a hindrance than help. I vote for the lever type. OH, and my big 6 HP compressor can deliver a lot of PSI's.


Carl

 

Hi Greg

Found an electric grease gun for £108 but heard mixed results regarding battery life, so I would rather get one that works off Compressed Air.

 

When I was Topping up the Antifreeze, I decided the best way was to remove the 'Banjo Bolt' on the Right Hand Side of the Closing Panel (UK) Car.

When I got the Bolt out, it was Blocked with Rust which I had to drill out but there was also another hole that was drilled through the Bolt (crossways) near the Top.

Which you should just be able to see in this Photo.



This Bolt goes through the Bango on the Top of the Closing Panel on the right hand side of the Closing Panel (UK) Car.

There is a hole drilled through the middle of the Bolt up to the point where it meets another hole drilled crosswise through the body of the bolt,

Is this hole supposed to be lined up inside the Banjo to face a particular way, or doesn't it matter?

I was also wondering if it would be a good idea to drill another hole through the Body of this Bolt Crosswise, in order to lessen the possible chance of the water being restricted in the water pipes that are attached to the Banjo

As can be seen in the next Photo.



Does the Hole in the Bolt that goes through this Banjo have to face a particular way or doesn't it matter?

 

I don't think there is any point, this piping is not the highest part of the cooling system.

In fact when I install my new engine I will be removing all of this piping entirely. My 6.0L (which will be the 6.7L) does not have the fill cap in the X-over pipe. The later 6.0L engines in the XJ40 and X300 also did away with this bleeding arrangement.

 

OB
Another cross drilled hole cannot hurt. The cross hole(s) must be unblocked and level with the inside circular indentation in the banjo or air cannot bleed out of the rad top and spout.



Warrjon, as you probably know, but in case not, the reason the later 6 litre saloons had no spout on the cross pipe and no rad top pipe and venturi bleed arrangement, is because their header tanks are higher than the radiator and engine. Therefore the system bleeds naturally upwards like most cars' do. Unless you re-site the header tank, how do you fill a spoutless cross-piped car with coolant?
I have no idea if this is correct, but JCP list a radiator top bleed pipe for the 6 litre XJS, and a spouted crosspipe. Perhaps a 6 litre XJS owner can confirm if they have the same bleed system as pre facelift V12s or not?
Greg

 

The XJS always had the same bleed setup... Just XJ81 and X305 had the new high sitting water bottle...

 

Hi Greg

That is mega interesting.

If the Header Tank on the 6L Engine is Higher than the Radiator and the Engine, then where on Earth did they put it?

As maybe that position could be replicated on a V12 5.3

 

..Same setup as you guys on my 92 6L.

 

OB
As you know, I have done it on my car, as has Ronbros. Daim has confirmed the 6 litre XJSs have the same cooling bleed arrangements as our cars do, OEM. The 6 litre X300 and XJ40 saloons had enough room under the bonnet up by the bulkhead to site an expansion tank there, unlike the XJS. To replicate what I have done would be hard on some if not all ABS-equipped XJSs, as (and correct me if I am wrong) I have a feeling that the ABS unit, or part of it, is on the passenger side up by the bulkhead where on my pre ABS car the washer bottle was sited OEM.
Moving the washer bottle was bad enough, moving the ABS unit is impossible! And as far as I could see, there is just nowhere else high enough up and with sufficient space for the 2 litres or so size of tank needed. What drove me to the fix was my spouted crosspipe was close to the end, the radtop bleed pipe was bodged, and both are NLA. Stainless crosspipes (from Ozland) are daft money if you can get one, and all those little pipes etc are a curse in themselves whenever a job in that area needs doing.
Greg

 

I too always thought there was a problem because the banjo hole in the bolt did not line up with the pipe but later learned (on this forum?) that it is not necessary. And since they are all like that I have to assume the designers were competent enough on this issue. Clearing all the gunk from the bolt though was essential to help the system function as designed.

 

Hi Brad

You are right, because when you think about it as long as Water can exit from the Cross Hole it can go round the Banjo and come out where ever it needs to.

But it wouldn't be the first time that I've had to clean the rust out of both holes: The one drilled into the Stem of the Bolt plus the Cross Hole that's

drilled through the Body of the Bolt.

As its always getting blocked up, so I might take up Gregs idea of an extra Cross Hole through the body of the Bolt.

Probably not to-day though, its absolutely Freeeezing!

 

That's right but as I recall it has been extolled and admonished that the exact specified copper washer must be used. A wee bit too thick or thin and the water can't 'go round'. I always use the actual Jaguar part in this case.


Cheers
DD

 

Hi Doug

I agree, so when I put it all back together I made sure that I only used the original Jaguar Washers.