I can honestly say that I can't locate any part that make it pop out. Have no idea where it is, so I don't know what I optionally should replace...

 

I would think there is some kind of Spring built into the hinge side of the flap. When you do get it open does it feel as though there is a slight tension when you close it or does it just feel really loose.

 

It does not feel loose. If I close it really gently it pops out by it self when I push the button. But if push it all the way in, it won't pop out by it self. Both, gently and all the way closes the door. So something tells me that the part that should pop the door isn't strong enough. But I can't find anything that indicates this...

 

I just discovered my wife's S-Type fuel door isn't staying shut. What is the best way of fixing it short of Velcro?

 

Check the latch on the gas door itself. If it's cracked it might not be holding the door tightly shut. If that is the issue the latch can be bought fairly cheap from your local dealer.

 

let me know I'm in for a metal pin!!!

 

The fuel flap on mine does not open when I press the remote button or the release button in the dash. The pull cord in the boot does open it.
But all I do is lever the flap open with my fingers at the petrol station.
Its not good in the sense of security for thieves.

 

a few years ago the complete replacement part was on about 50 dollars and 30 minutes labor to replace. all in the trunk behind the carpet

 

My '01 S-Type fuel door was also not opening when I pushed the release button on the dash, even though I could hear the release mechanism working. But I could open the door with my fingers while simultaneously activating the release button, which told me all the components of the latch/release mechanism were working, but the spring that should pop the door out didn't have enough strength to do so. So either the spring device was kaput, or the door hinge needed to be lubed. Unfortunately, you can't see or even feel the door hinge from the door opening, so it's all guesswork.

In my case, I was able to actually fix the fuel door so it opens reliably by spraying white lithium grease into the hinge area of the fuel door using a flexible straw and simply guessing the approximate location of the upper and lower hinge points for the door. Then I worked the hinge vigorously by opening and closing the fuel door multiple times until it swung smoothly on its hinge. That seemed to do the trick, as the fuel door now works the way it should, swinging freely on its axis and popping open when I push the dash button.

As other forum members have recommended, I now lube all the fuel door release mechanism parts regularly with white lithium grease; but, in addition, I also make sure the fuel door is lubed and moving freely as well. Thus far...no more fuel door issues on any of my S-Types.

 

Hi the fuel door on my 2005 Jag S type will not open! nor will my trunk with the switch on the dash, the trunk will open with the remote, but the fuel door is locked tight, and I need to get some gas!!!ASAP I checked the fuses, there good , I don't see an emergency pull string in the trunk , although I know that some year models come with one. can someone please tell me how I can open the fuel door without damaging it? And better still how do I repair it?

 

check to make sure the valet button is off. It is in the glove box

 

Sorry, that should say white silicone grease

 

For over 15 months, I have never found a permanent solution to fixing the broken fuel door latch on my 2005 S-Type Jaguar. I needed the lowest cost fix possible as I am retired with a negative cash flow draining my savings more and more. But...I finally invented my own PERMANENT fix that required no painting, and no expensive replacement parts! I videotaped the repair process and it is actually a very easy, common sense fix. Check out my video on YouTube:




I may be making some replacement latch pins so other S-Type owners can fix their own fuel flap door without all the extra building and labor I had to do in the first half of the demo video.


Let me know if you were able to solve your own broken latch by using my video repair instructions! I'm not a car tech or a money-grubbing profiteer off from my forum advice. I'm just happy that my long term problem was finally solved with a little Redneck engineering!!! (Now that I've moved to North Carolina, I find myself doing more and more redneck fixes!)

 

Well done, Scott. Now, keep that plastic pin and latch assembly coated in white lithium grease to minimize the chances of more fuel door latch failures down the road. I put a dab of grease on my S-Type's latch pin assembly at least quarterly (after carefully cleaning as much of the old grease and grime off the assembly with a paper towel that I reasonably can)....

 

Be sure and listen to Jon! This is the key and much easier than repairing the latch.

I have a 2005 S Type and this small suggestion from this forum has kept mine perfect for the last 12 years!
.
.
.

 

Mr. Clubairth,


Thanks for your reply. I will go out and buy the white lithium lubricant today. If Lithium crystals worked for Starship Enterprise, then it's gotta work for Jag owners!
My fuel door latch never broke from lack of lubricant. My 2005 car only has 30K miles on it and sits stored and covered most of the time (I put 500 miles on it in the past 2 years). How the latch got broken during the act of pouring gas from a 5 gal can down into the gas tank. It was dark, and the side of the extended black pour hose pressed hard against the open and exposed fuel latch. That's when I heard a "snap" sound! And to complicate the problem worse....I used a cheap plastic funnel that had ribs along the insert tube. So when I tried to pull out the funnel, the ribs gripped tight inside the little round metal flap that protects water or objects from accidentally going down the gas pipe into the tank. After twisting and pulling on the funnel for 5 minutes, it finally gave way...only to chop off the 2 inch ribbed part of the tube which promptly flushed down deep inside the gas tank. Hopefully, the floating plastic is living unobtrusively in an entombed lake of gasoline for the remainder of eternity. Otherwise it is too costly to remove the gas tank and pump just to retrieve the plastic chunk.

 

Boy that is a unique way to break the gas latch!

Hope you don't have problems with that chunk of plastic floating in the tank!

Just a warning? I work on a lot of old cars and have found several very strange problems caused by the same thing! Debris has a bad habit of getting stuck in places you don't want it to!

Hopefully the plastic will stay in one piece.
.
.
.

 

Haha, I was working on a wakeboard boat a few weeks ago. It has the Indmar 350 mated to a ZF marine V-drive transmission.

​​​Long story short, I used a hand pump much like I use to service our S Types ZF boxes to pump in new fluid. BTW the ATF in the ZF marine boxes use Dexron VI. Anyways I lost the 6" tube portion into the bowels of the transmission. Needless to say I was bummed.It will remain there for all eterinty. I purchased a scope, I can see the tube in the lower portion of V-drive but cannot remove it, which would involve pulling motor and V-drive out of boat.

Yes, I did tell owner of boat what I did. Thankfully they were very understanding and agreed to leaving it stay.

 

I too have fallen victim to the weak plastic...

The Latch Assembly - Inner wheel liner has to be removed to access the clip on the end to release it

The disassembled pin assembly

The weak plastic part with the proposed screw as a strengthening medium


Using a small self tapping screw I cut the head off with electrical crimp tool which has a 'thread shortner'

The coarse thread of the re-purposed self tapping screw adds rigidity to the plunger. Hopefully the spring won't need to be shortened!

Showing the hollow interior of the plunger...

 

So the interior of the boot / trunk has to be disassembled to gain access...

Four 10mm AF bolts have to be removed to move this assembly out of the way...

May not be apparent, but the two clips at side of tube have to be pried out slightly while plunger assembly is removed.

Of course to get to this point, you've removed the wheel and inner liner. Been distracted by how much corrosion needs attention. I also found the drain tube from the filler compartment was blocked. Some may suggest just removing the solenoid motor by undoing the two screws... Good luck with that! One of them is inaccessible unless you have a Philips screwdriver bit on a wrench with limited access...