Hi all,
Any advise on where to position four axel stands so can remove all 4 wheels?

getting conflicting advise. The top of the stands are curved so not aiming to position them on the jacking point lips. I only have the smaller trolley jack and wondering whats the best procedure so not to cause any damage and be safe. Prob only standing for a week while wheels being refurbished.

cant find much on google search.
cheers

 

Look in the owner's manual for illustrations, cautions and directions.

I use wood for cushioning and grip

 

I use wood as well. I have a couple of blocks with a groove cut out of them to fit onto the jacking points. There's some info on youtube and a guy on there demonstrates how he jacks up and supports his car.
Cheers

 

I use rubber hockey pucks; each is ~ $1.25. They don't fall apart like the wood does, provides a nice cushion, and conforms to some extend.

Wrair.

 

CAUTION: When using a floor jack, a cushioned pad must be utilized to avoid body damage.
CAUTION: When using axle stands, a cushioned pad must be utilized to avoid damage to the body.




A Jacking point
B Axle stand positioning point

 

I use a Harbor Freight 62247 jack for mine with a poly 7" length of 2x4 across the floor under the fender vent and it picks up the whole side. I install one jack in the back by the bolt on brace ('A' in the image above) and one on the back side of the lower control arm up front as close to the frame as possible. I go direct metal to metal as I've seen stands kick out when the crap on top slips. I hate putting stands on the pinch welds like in the image above. it just focuses a ton of stress on that 1" wide section.

Once the car is up give it a good shake before climbing under it. Might be surprised what happens.

 

Before I bought a lift, I used a low profile 2 ton Jack and this this lift on side at a time or front first, then back. $45 @ Harbor Freight.

 

That's what I need Sean..

 

Points "A" on the diagram are for the included car jack

When I had my vehicle in the body shop, the guy lifted the car about 2 feet using only one of the front "B" jack points - I was a little concerned.

I contacted the local Jag dealer and they said it was ok to do that - too my relief.

Built tough..

 

thats great guys! Thanks.
i know you can cause damage if not in the right place and nothing in the handbook about stand points apart from the jacking points with the lip.

that point B won't be a lip but can see a coin size hole or the nut where a cross member bolts to the sill. Looks like I need get something to fit to the top of the stand.

 

Well now minus wheels! Wasn't to bad. Thanks guys! Hoping for some nice fresh wheels and tyres by Friday. 😀

 

An effective way to stop car theft, ... or you're already a victim!

 

Ha ha, now worried about someone taking a fancy to the Alcon breaks! 😬

 

While you have the wheels off.
I would wash the carpet like material in the wheel wells.
Then apply ceramic made for fabric. (CQuartz Fabric ? CarPro)

It will keep them clean for a couple of years. And car looking newer.

 

Also give back to the community.
Get on the damn floor and take some pics of exactly where you jacked the car and where you have it on the stands. This way we wont have to refer others to a diagram.

 

This, except I'll add a "please" on the end

I have been using the "rails" that run either side of the transmission tunnel on the underside for the axle stands at the front - no problem so far, other than that I need to get some sort of underseal applied to them as the stands have rubbed back whatever was there to expose metal in a couple of small places. The rears have always puzzled me though, never been able to identify anything that looks like an appropriate place for an axle stand at the locations shown by points B in the diagram...

 

sounds like a good idea! Going to clean everything under there. I've also just bought some Cquarz uk ceramic kit so I can do the wheels when I get them back and easier to do when off. Your other thread about sonax (was it c36?) was interesting. I think I will have enough to do the rest of the car in cquarz so will give that a go for now.

 

Be very careful applying cquartz uk to black paint. Thats what I had for a year on my car. liked it but made a few mistakes.
1. be prepared to discard the towels you use to wipe off.
2. wipe off immediately, dont wait for it to flash. You may think as I did, you need a good amount on there- you dont. Its very difficult to get off if you leave streaks, which are very hard to see, especially in areas you cant get to with a buffer later on, such as under the mirrors.
3. you can apply sonax polymer net (dont know what its called in the UK) over the cquartz for superb results. Keep in mind the gloss or shine of the cquartz is not very good,that's why I removed it.

I applied cquartz uk very liberally on my wheels and did not wipe it off at all. Its still going strong 2 years later and its one of the best things I ever did. Then again I never used strong soap either to clean the wheels. Just the same car wash soap.

In the Ftype forum I posted a big tip on ceramic .Apply it to a rag and then apply to your door jambs, the groove in the hatchback and any other place you see where water pools. This stuff repels water making drying a breeze.

 

Rear, front below.
I actually managed to pick up the jacking points and my stands have a lip with flat bit which nicely sits on the metal lip so won't slip off.
The jacking rails are wide enough to have the trolley jack to one side so seems the best place and not far from the points on the diagram. I pushed on the car before taking off the wheels and all seems solid.
I have two trolley jacks but they are the smaller 2 tonne ones which helped get the jacks close.
Front

 

Cheers mate,
Just dint want the car to fall on me while getting those calipers and rotors.