Further to my distributor issues other month, was giving the unit a clean to see if I missed anything, just wanted to add that right on the bottom of the bowl of the unit there are some additional printed numbers, in case they tell anything useful, likely not. Unit is a 22D Lucas.

54 4117 49

22D 6

marked under the lower plate beneath magnets and springs.

still same issue, voltage in but none out.

 

also, any suggestions for fixing the plate contact wire?
have done various fixes before on this but any best suggested method or part for the wire?
picture on web the connector is a small lug ring with a very flat tyre brazened to the plate.

 

The earth pigtail is a mongrel.

I have used a suitable length of Stainless wire, quite thin, and used the condenser mounting screw, and then to the body of the distributor, ensuring it has enough slack to allow the vac unit to rotate the plate, and also not short the contact points.

I had some of that wire in a box of wire, as I throw NOTHING away, and it might have come from an old Toaster, or Bar heater, simply dont remember.

 

this page - http://www.74tr6.com/distributor.htm
contain useful pictures and comment that "the number 41558 reflects the advance curve that was built" so based on that my unit has "41367 A" stamped on it under a layer of dirt. also below that "08 73" .. feel like the greasy version of Indiana Jones
the plate wire is indeed a monster, sure it has broken its solder before too.

 

Here are the pics Aden, I couldn't send them in the PM.



Good known parts
Ballast resistor
LV19V points(new)
BD250 rotor(new)
LC163 condensor(new)...or 103,can't tell. But it's th right part for the dizzy.
C80R coil
GT40R coil(newish)
GT40RT coil
And a set of good known working spark plugs( but they are Champion)

Plus all the dizzy and all old parts in known working order.

 

Continuing the distributor conversation, just more so I know if I am doing this right or wrong, when I turn the shaft at the base should the plate be nudged at each turn by the weights/spring causing a slight (very slight) lift in the plate (not yet screwed down)?
Is this an aspect of the function or have I assembled wrong?

many thanks to o1xjr for the collect of parts, also. very helpful.


so turn the shaft at base

beneath plate, weights/springs

plate on top is given tiny lift as spring/weight contact it at the completion of each full turn of shaft

 

Hi Aden,

There was a little bit of play in the plates of my one which didn't present any problems.

As for the earth wire, yeah, annoying PITA to replace. I carefully prized open the locking tap, soldered a replacement insulated wire to the plate and folded down the locking tap over it.

The wire needs to be insulated and fairly short (5 1/2 - 6 cm's).

Also be aware of what the other end is being fixed to.

The first time I put mine back together, I managed to ground to the wrong bit and had a similar problem to you. It was a couple of years ago so unfortunately can't remember the specifics, but it was one of those 'oh that was a bit silly' moments when I worked it out.

Cheers and good luck.

Nigel

 

No problem Aden, parts I will never use and taking up valuable storage space in my limited workshop facilities.

 

My concern with the cause of the lifting is that it might create wear on the parts but then I am not sure that the lifting isn't also important to the function of the part either, if you follow what I mean.

 

Hi Aden,

When I had mine out, and indeed, I have a mangy spare which I have just had another look at, I noted that the two plates pivot around the central hole for the dissy shaft.

I recall uncoupling the two plates fairly easily.

I believe that there is play primarily because the two plates are separate.

Our putting pressure on one end lifts the other.

In situ , there isn't pressure on an end to cause this lifting as one plate is rocking back and forth along the pivot plane.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Nigel

 

I think I mean to say the 'lift' is because caused by the the spring/weight units turning with the shaft, a small 'lift' up upon full rotation, the two plates that are locked together are not lifting apart as such, but the two linked plates are being 'lift' as a whole when the spring underneath completes its rotation.

 

Something is amiss.

The lower spinning bits have NO contact with that plate at all.

The only contact is the lobes of the centre shaft opening the contact points, as that shaft rotates, thats it.

 

to be sure I'm clear, have drawn on this diagram-

 

Placed both 22d's side by side they do seem configured different, the newer one has a large spring which i think is what is making contact with the upper plates. the earlier one has smaller springs and doesnt appear to contact plate. but then earlier one doesnt seem to have been working if all this testing and trying indicates that.


original at left newer one at right

newer one

 

the distance from the base of the distributor cup to the top of the top counter weight is 18.5mm on my original one and yet 23mm on the newer one. despite the spring lift issue on the newer one, I wonder if I have reassembled the original unit incorrectly at some stage.

 

OK, think it was as simple as the weights had lifted out if their holes and now both sit in a 18mm from base.
Weights in possition

 

SHOULD THERE BE CONTINUOUS CONTINUITY between the lower and upper contact plates that link together? if so, what is the point of the braided/ponytail earth wire? I assume this is just to ensure contiguous earth.

 

First time in ages I have a constant/any flash on the timing light on plug 1#
cleaned and serviced both 22d distributors side by side today and compared every part and position, installed my original one, no flash then the one from Oz and now have a spark reaching 1# plug, so can stop blaming my timing light for being cheap.
Strange to compare the two side by side as neither show wear or variation, they are for the best part identical. ONLY different I could see by eye was that the contact sets that came with the replacement dizzy are observably LARGER than those on the original unit. They do not fit on the original as far as I can see.

 

If the newer one you are referring to is my old one, it is exactly as it was when taken out of the car. It was never totally disassembled, just parts taken off as you received it.

 

Yes, I think that in its travels the weights slipped out of place and the upper plate got wedged on them so it sat up too far hence the odd measures I was taking. all cleaned and set back in place now as explained above, getting action on the timing light finally.

the contact sets I have been buying locally seem smaller than the three that came with your distributor and I wonder if this is why I was getting no pulse on my one, the contact was making no connection. its only a matter of 2 or 3mm smaller but this could be it. will test again tomorrow when have some fresh petrol.