XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Now what?! TPS? Stuck pedal? Vid inside

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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 06:38 PM
  #41  
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Well I set the throttles and put in the new coolant sensor. Started it up and it idled right about 1500... I could hear the air being sucked in mad at the aav in the air box. I plugged it with my thumb and the rpms dropped. I ripped out the aav and it's stuck open? Aka heat is not closing it. I've got it soaking in PB blaster but I don't think that things going anywhere. Well I guess it's good I finally know for sure that it's stuck but also sucks because trying to find one and it being inexpensive is going to be hard.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 07:01 PM
  #42  
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Grant has a write-up for repairing AAVs, I think.

If nothing else maybe you can force the piston down (or is it up? I forget) to get something close a a proper idle speed.

Y'know, some guys ditch the AAV entirely. And half of 'em or more that are out there are not working and haven't been for years....and the owners probably don't even know. It's only when they're stuck in a high high position that it's a real problem, IMO.

The only purpose of the AAV is to give a higher idle speed when cold. You can do that with your foot :-)

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 07:40 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Doug
Grant has a write-up for repairing AAVs, I think.

If nothing else maybe you can force the piston down (or is it up? I forget) to get something close a a proper idle speed.

Y'know, some guys ditch the AAV entirely. And half of 'em or more that are out there are not working and haven't been for years....and the owners probably don't even know. It's only when they're stuck in a high high position that it's a real problem, IMO.

The only purpose of the AAV is to give a higher idle speed when cold. You can do that with your foot :-)

Cheers
DD
yeah the piston or whatever it is is stuck down at the bottom. It won't budge up to the closed position at all. I only saw one piece on eBay and it was like $225. Ugh
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 08:16 PM
  #44  
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Here you go.

AAV rebuild procedure.pdf
 
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Old Sep 10, 2017 | 08:52 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Grant Francis
Here you go.

Attachment 202665
Thanks! I had remembered seeing that at some point today and tried whacking the side to get the top to come out... that didn't work so I'm going to have to cut it(if the pb doesn't free it).


Also, where did this normally T too? It goes to the distributor and what else? Whoever had it before me crammed something in it to block it.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2017 | 01:30 AM
  #46  
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One arm of the T goes to the dizzy top to vent it. The other arm is blocked up because it goes nowhere and the OEM part is now NLA.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2017 | 10:18 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by greg in france
one arm of the t goes to the dizzy top to vent it. The other arm is blocked up because it goes nowhere and the oem part is now nla.
👍🏼
 
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Old Sep 11, 2017 | 11:32 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
One arm of the T goes to the dizzy top to vent it. The other arm is blocked up because it goes nowhere and the OEM part is now NLA.
Do I understand correctly that you're saying this Tee is not OEM. That the OEM part was not a Tee but only went to the dizzy vent? Or are you saying that the AAV tap is a Tee from Jaguar and the other part that the Tee fed is NLA?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2017 | 12:38 PM
  #49  
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"Do I understand correctly that you're saying this Tee is not OEM. That the OEM part was not a Tee but only went to the dizzy vent?" Yes

The rubber pipe with the rubber spigot (the one in the pic) that accepts the T (in your pc) is NLA. The original plastic piece (not a T but a 90 degree piece) that went into the rubber spigot is NLA. The important thing is that the dizzy vent is connected to the rubber spigot/rubber pipe so the dizzy gets vented. In this diagram, numbers 4 and 5 are NLA

I made a 4 for a mate as shown this photo using a special piece for tapping off rubber coolant pipes:
 
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