Is there a step by step on this procedure in the comments. I could not find one.

Thanks,

Tom

 

Tom, you can download the Workshop Manual from this site. Search for JTIS or Workshop manual.

 

The workshop manual procedure looks pretty straight forward.......except for removing fuel rail. Is there a special tool to remove spring lock couplings on fuel rail?

Thanks,
Tom

 

Visit your local parts store and pick up something like this;

 

Wow. That looks simple......

Thank you,

Tom

 

It is not all that big although important task to do correctly. Take your time, walk away when you are having an issue. Come back later and things often work out a lot easier than you thought they would. Plastic connectors were sometimes a pain to get undone, some were already broken at the clip on the connector. Some can be had from Ford, those work great, & are the best solution, others can be a bit of an issue, but someone will have done it, just ask.

 

Thanks Wingrider. I'll report back when finished.

Tom

 

Is there anything else I should replace while i am in there? other than the upper and lower gaskets.

Thanks

TOM

 

There's a coolant hose in the valley, that's a must-do if you're going through the trouble of taking the intake off. MAP sensor and knock sensors are under there, but if no issues that's not value for money.

You don't have to remove the injector rail to change the intake. I had a thread w photos on the naturally aspirated V8 valley coolant hose here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...on-s-c-149873/

 

I respectfully disagree with not changing the knock sensors. Unless you're getting specific MAP sensor codes, then a good cleaning should suffice, but you should definitely replace the knocks while you're in there. I was amazed by how much better the car ran after replacement.

 

If the manifold is off, those eight pesky little rubber gaskets, inside the manifold, would be a good idea to replace.

 

Right--I didn't mean if you had codes, but if you have no pinging or knocking, and no reason to suspect them--it's up to you if you want to replace them. If they're any bit suspect of course now is the time to do those.

Is there a source for these intermediate gaskets now, or does Jag sell them?

Which reminds me--if you're ordering the intake manifold-to-head gaskets from Jag, be aware they are only selling you one, not a set.

 

Actually, I wasn't getting any codes or anything, but I figured I might as well change them out while I'm in there and it indeed made a huge difference. It really felt like a lot of power lost from age had been restored.

 

is this the proper hose from egr. Rockauto URO AJ89554?i

 

What do the gaskets look like and where can i get them?

Thanks,
Tom

 

Coventry West; Is where i got mine, $134.92 for the two metal, and eight rubber, or silicon gaskets, delivered to my door. Salesman there knew exactly what i was talking about. The dealer has a new manifold available, but knows nothing about any internal gaskets.Thought since Ford has the same gaskets inside their Thunder bird, as well as the Lincoln L S, they would have them, but no such luck.Keep your eyes open, ask questions, pay attention, take your time, and you can almost afford to drive an unbelievable automobile, you will enjoy every time you drive it

 

are these the gaskets you are referring too? I got them on ebay from a co. in Austin Tx. $86

 

Those are the ones.

 

You need AJ811763 for the natrually aspirated V8. The one above appears to be a S/C hose. Similar but different shape. I would stick with OEM on this part, you don't want to be pulling the manifold a 2nd time for the same item. I have not heard the best reviews of URO parts.

 

Thanks. I agree on the hose. I forgot to mention in earlier posts that when i first start car the brakes are really stiff, as if they are not getting any Boost.
Is this all inner related?

Thanks,

Tom