The passenger side headrest motor runs but headrest does not move. Is this an easy fix for me to do? Anyone know how to get to the motor within the seat?

 

Depends on what broke and if the plastic, where the plastic broke? You can easily remove the back panel and all will be exposed. You can run the headrest button to see what and where its broken.
Once you get that off and still need assistance, if you can provide pics, please post so we can see what you see. This can be a somewhat simple fix or one that may require ingenuity (mine ingenuity).
Here's a thread for your review to see if this is the issue.... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...est-faq-69635/

 

It's most probably been tugged out of the captive cups. To re-seat it you're best removing the seat back to access it. There are plenty of 'how to' threads, but essentially you pull the sides away from their clips and swing the seat back away so you can access. It's held at the base with two Pozi screws that don't need to be removed.

Lower the mechanism then push and guide the headrest 'feet' back into their 'shoes', they will click into place in the frame.

 

Found the broken part, how bad is this to fix?

 

OMG, the worst of the worst, now you have to take your Jag out and shoot it. That's like a broken leg to a Jag. No, no...j/k, j/k
Ok, back to reality...that is what broke on mine. I wish I were home (I should be there tomorrow evening), I'd take a pic for you and I will when I get there. But in the meantime the ingenuity part comes in. Think of it as a broken leg and putting a splint on it. But in this case it'll be a permanent splint that will have to be secure because of the upward and downward pressure and your limited on how high the splint can be for the rise of the head rest.
Until I get back with the pic, this will give you something to mull over, unless someone else chimes in with a brilliant idea (other than replacement which I think is $700?). They don't sell the plastic by itself and the yards I checked were not the same model.

 

I too was thinking the splint route, Anxious to hear your solution. Keep in mind this is the passenger side, and headrests don't get much use anyway. If I can't fix it no big deal but I like the challenge.

 

JB Weld is your friend here.

 

I myself tried that KC, but it broke again after a couple of moves. It needs to have the "splint" done in conjunction with that.

 

I have not seen this on my car; but, if the lower piece broke from the upper, I think I would drill a small holes in each piece and "sew" wire longitudinally across both pieces (maybe twice or more, much like sewing a button), then wrap both the upper and lower with more wire for strength, and then soak the splinted joint in JB Weld.

 

You read my mind. I have braided fishing line 90lb test (looks like thread) which is very thin and strong. I was planning on drilling, sewing and gluing and then a little praying.

 

Yours broke higher than mine AJ, so use due diligence to determine your work needed for movement of the head rest.
The nylon thread isn't a bad idea, issue is you need support or it will flex and fail depending on how it broke. If it broke flush, it may work, any angle and it will almost assuredly fail. I believe I used a coat hanger (its been a couple years) and you can see my JB weld attempt as KC suggested. I had also tried a specific plastic adhesive that failed. I tried both with the splint insert into the rail for the head rest track to ride completely to position. You may take note of recessing your repair piece to clear the track.
I wound up determining support was not only needed at the fracture, but as a rigid replacement support in the whole section. I highly suggest prebending the wire to fit and size and fishing it in place. Do this before trying to bend it in the plastic to avoid breaking the plastic. Its actually shaped like a pair of tongs which bend under at the bottom and when zipped together, is like a clamp. When you drill, use the smallest bit necessary to leave as much meat as possible for support. Overall I hope this helps you with your repair and it looks cleaner than mine since you shouldn't have to deal with the failed procedures. Just keep in mind, no one is going to see it, it just needs to be functional.

 

This stuff is very strong:http://https://www.permatex.com/prod...-welder-epoxy/
I would use two thin flat straps approximately 3/8" wide and just over an inch long with 1/8" holes drilled down about 1/4" from each end. Plastic weld the joint, then place a strap splint over each side of the joint when the epoxy is still soft.
Then drill through the holes in the splint, through the plastic and draw everything tight with two long reach pop rivets. Should be stronger than new.

 

Its not a bad idea BJ, I was going to use light duty "split press pins" (or insert sleeves) but my repair was too low. It may work for AJ's scenario but the splint plastic has to be dense so as not to crack and break. I would be concerned the rivets would break the plastic.

 

Thin metal splints, doesn't take much thickness, maybe 20 gauge (0.925 mm). If you drill the holes through the plastic part slowly it shouldn't crack it.
The plastic weld epoxy is very strong stuff. If you can get the thin metal strips on before it sets it will also adhere to them. I'd certainly do all this while the part was on my bench. With the rivets on each side of the fracture, it should be very strong. This is for a break in the stem. A break down close to the saddle is going to be harder.

 

You mention working on parts on your bench. Will I have to take off the leather to get this contraption. is there a way to get the plastic gear that goes up into the motor to come out? I can see taking the nylon mechanism off the headrest posts by pulling straight down, but I need the broken part extracted somehow. I know the suggestions are coming . . . . . . . .

This site is an incredible resource.

My jag wouldn't start today, sits idle a lot. Trickle charging as I write and I got it to start. I need to figure out where the battery drain is originating. Viewed some other threads on this separate subject. Fun times.

 

I am having a little trouble understanding the splint concept. The gear is square shaped and goes into a squared sleeve. Any build up on the sides, front or back will inhibit the gear from going inside the sleeve, correct. What am I missing? My break is higher up, and needs to travel inside.

Also, what do you think the significance of the circled red tab is? This must have a purpose?

 

Notice that our gears are on the side, that is why I stated about recessing the splint into the groove to allow full movement.

 

Doing the job in situ will require some additional creativity.
Is there any chance you could pin the broken joint, with say a 15mm long piece of thin stainless rod, maybe cut from a paper clip? Can you get to it to drill some small holes in the ends of the butt joint to insert the pins? Combined with the epoxy it should be strong.

 

I believe I have come up with a unique mechanical solution as a fix. My solution is glueless . . . and the big reveal will be in a few days when I will have more time to work on it. I will include photos of course. Stay tuned all.

Thanks for everyone's input - stole ideas from here and there.

 

I had some square steel tubing, just the right size to do the trick. 12 gauge copper wire was bent and threaded thru the holes. I need the tubing to stand slightly taller than the bottom broken segment so that it provided lateral support in all directions to the broken top gear piece. The top piece broke off a the lowest gear tooth so I needed to make sure I didn't obstruct anything as it traveled upward. Had to make groove front and back in upper segment to accommodate copper by removing the horizontal separator (see photo) No glue, works like a charm, so far . . . . .