Just for other options, they've started making variations on the claybars. I came across the video for this one a while back so I went and found it again. A little more upfront, but ease of use and longevity are pluses.

https://www.chemicalguys.com/Surface...p/cly_303b.htm

 

I read some of the posts in this thread and decided to give clay bar a try. Unfortunately I finished kind of late in the day so the pictures don't really do her justice.

 

Yes and it can make your car as smooth as glass if you have good paint and do it right.

 

Can it also be used on the windshield to remove sap?

 

It can't remove big lumps but can remove little droplets.

 

Snapped a couple of pictures with a bit more sunlight.

To clay bar and polish the car took me about 5 hours so either I did something wrong or I am just getting old!

 

Really shows the shine in this pic Harvest......................that is a beautiful car, I love the X308 in white.




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I have no idea what a "clay bar" is, i've never seen one at Pep Boys or O'Reillys, but a few months ago I took my VDP to a Detailer who sprayed some fluid on the bonnet and then took a credit card and , with the edge of the card, lightly scraped the paint and it "sounded" like it was rough. He recommended it should be "clay barred", $250 later with a few bells and whistles added in, it came out looking pretty darn good. Lightly running my hand over the roof and bonnet, it felt really smooth. So after still not knowing exactly what "clay bar" is, I'd give it 2 thumbs up.
Clive

 

CliveB, go to your local Walmart (or pretty much any other automotive store) and for $16.00 buy this kit. It will last you many years, and you can clay-bar your car with little effort in about 30 minutes for pennies.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-...y-Kit/16386193




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Ouch, I would never take my car again to someone willing to scrape plastic along the surface - fluid or no. Guaranteed to introduce fine scratches that way. Yes, he might only have done it for a short section but still. The way I've seen professionals (think Ammo NYC level) is with a baggie on your finger. And for $250, that should be plenty more than just clay-bar additions. That better be at the least a quick polish on top of everything, and good wax and sealant. At least in most areas.

The reason I mention it, is I had an incident where I had paint splattered on my passenger side, and left it freckled with tiny white paint dots. I thought the exact same thing: I can just nick each one off, what harm could it do? Needless to say I had to do a thorough polishing the next day to remove all the tiny scratches left behind.

 

I use a clay bar at least once a year. I've tried Meguiars and Griot's Garage. They both work just fine. I prefer the Griot's.

 

Use lighter fluid or isopropyl alcohol to remove tree sap, apply on a rag and keep applying...it needs to dissolve it off, not just wipe it off. Both are basic derivative of alcohol and easily dissolves it for removal and leaves no residue.

I saw where someone said it was a lot of work. Far from it, you may be doing it wrong if so or hadn't done it in awhile? You do not press using the bar, its a little bit of spray from a water bottle and very light movements with immediate wipe down with a terry cloth towel. I literally can do my Vanden Plas in about 20-30 minutes. Don't let the bar get too dirty, I knead mine constantly because the dirtier you let it get before kneading, the longer it takes to dissolve the contaminants into it.
I also saw where someone said the wax went on better. Absolutely correct, and you use less of it because your putting the wax onto the clear coat, not on top of a film of dirt or soap residue and working it in. It takes the wax less time to haze up also.
There is nothing like the deepness you get out of clay barring. I use it 2-3 times a year, we have a lot of construction going on in Florida. To tell if you need it, use the back of your hand on the surface and if you feel and/or hear friction, it needs it.

 

I have never used a clay bar in my life, but seeing the pics, and reading these posts, it is off to the shop to buy some .... as if I was not busy enough ....

 

Highhorse's description is 100%, it is not hard work, you spray the area and "wipe" the claybar gently over the surface of the car. You can tell if you are not using enough liquid as the claybar will "stall", it should glide smoothly and lightly over the surface, and you will hear and feel it picking up the contaminates from the paint. Once that selected area is done wipe dry with a clean Terry cloth. Thirty minutes max for the whole car. Then wax with Carnauba paste using plenty of fresh Terry cloths. The waxing takes longer than the claybarring, but is much easier than usual because the surface is so smooth now. I split it up into areas, the hood, a fender, the roof, the trunk, a door, etc. Use one Terry cloth to wax on, another fresh one to wax off, and another fresh one to buff each area.
I use Maguiar's Gold Class Plus Carnauba paste, $10 bucks from Walmart.




Then post pics here!



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+1 CK...
Another note, if you've not done yours before, then you'll probably need to do it a couple times to get through the glazed on contaminants. Do small areas the first go around, then in the future your area to cover will be larger because you'll have less residue to cut through.
You'll definitely feel the difference on your first attempt. Just be sure to get the "wax on, ...wax off" mentality out of your head. Use lots of moisture to allow the bar to glide and simple consistent left to right light motions and check the bar constantly to determine kneading. I find my roof to be the major area to have to do twice. To feel satisfaction, just do half the hood and lift it to see/admire the difference.

To test, its preferred to use the back of your hand where you have less callousness and residues (oils, sweat,) from touching things (the claybar in particular) with the palm of your hand. You'll see if you try both sides.

 

It took a lot of time and effort to clay bar my XJR. I didn't use a lot of force except in some spots but even though the kit came with two clay bars it really wasn't enough. They were filthy through and through when I was done. I kneaded them and stretched them and kept looking for clean spots but by the end of the job they were both ready to be thrown away. Is that normal or did my car REALLY need it?

By the way, I did wash the car very thoroughly before I started...

 

Yeah, your car really needed it, I'm still using the one bar from my Jax Wax kit from 2 yrs ago.

 

 

it seems that the clay bar is overcome by these products

 

https://www.lacuradellauto.it/clay-l...icrofiber.html