Thanks. I must be in an excellent mood today because all of this seems like fun. Learning a lot. So long as the car doesn't leave you stranded (or clean out your bank account), it's all good.

 

For P0445, I would suspect the purge valve.

 

I started smelling fuel today. It seems to have arrived along with my P0171 and P0174 codes. are the two things related? I have a 2002 xkr. Im about to search for those codes and see what the possible fixes are. The fuel smell bothers me more than the check engine light so I figured Id tackle that first. Also, there is a line that runs just inside the passenger side rear wheel that looks as if if may have been damaged from a flat at one time. Does that go to the purge valve/or canister in the rear? Its a hard line.

 

yesterday I changed my fuel filter because I read that low fuel pressure could cause the two above mentioned codes along with the cannister that wont purge. I paid 10.99 for my filter. the fuel that came out was black and generally nasty and unacceptable. I bought the iridium plugs from the dealer but the check engine light went out right after I changed the filter while on my way to pick up the plugs. I didnt have any air intake leaks. Thanks to all the great people who provide input to this forum

 

Good dealio, easy fix.

 

Hi gents.
I have recently begun to smell gas in cabin with heater on as well as in the engine bay. After tracing the odor I found the issue to be a junction of some sort near the fuel pressure relieve valve. I am attaching a picture for better understanding and hope to get some feedback on whether I am facing a simple seal failure or worse.
Thank you in advance for any insight...helpful or not

Best,
Danny.

 

It is a pressure regulator, are you sure it is coming from it? You have a fuel rail that goes down both sides of the engine.

Have you looked at the EVAP system on the car? It has been the most common problem with the odor of fuel.

Link to TSB http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/XK8/303-63.pdf

 

Hi GUS. Thanks so much for the prompt response and identification of the part in question.
I am absolutely sure that it's the pressure regulator as you can see for yourself from another picture taken while the car was running which enables the leak due to pressurizing of the system. Sadly, I am unable to find replacement seal only, and the whole new part (featuring seals ) goes for around $200. I will try to take it apart this weekend and substitute the failed seal ring with generic option should I find one . You have not happened to take this part apart before by any chance, have you ?
Thanks once again!

 

Test the valve first. Check the pressure with the engine ru nnung should be around 34+/- a few then remove the vacuum hose and see if the pressure goes up to around 40+/- a few. In going this test you will know if it is working properly.

 

If you go to a hydraulic shop they may have what you are looking for but be sure you tell them that you are using it in the fuel system. The reason for the test is that if the regulator is working properly if not then you are forced into getting a new one. No I have not taken one apart.

 

I chased it for 6 months. i hope what i suggest is not a wild goose chase but...
in the trunk remove the back carpet. You will see a metal sheet the length of the trunk that covers the gas tank behind the seats. 4 bolts or so removes it. Then you will see some houses that go to the gas tank fill etc. I had a small hose that vents fumes to the fill disconnected. 45 min job.

 

Gas smell in cabin. The dreaded full pump has been replaced.....I know. Super human powers. It is so strong it makes me feel ill. I can even drop the top and you can STILL smell it. It smells worse when the air is on recycle. Where do I start?

 

Did the problem start right after the fuel pump was replaced?

 

Danny, I had this problem a few months ago. You should first try fitting some new O-rings. If that doesn't fix it, the cheapest fuel injection pressure regulator can be had at rockauto.com for $150 and it includes the O-rings.

In my case, the new O-rings I bought at auto zone didn't solve my problem. Yes, I got the leak to stop, but the regulator was bust. So I had to buy a new one.

Tell me something, how many cranks does your car take on a cold start? If it usually takes a disconcerting 5 - 10 cranks the regulator, given the leak, is probably dying.

 

Bumping this tread with a question.

Have accumulated all of the parts for the canister breather vent filter relocation to the outside of the passenger compartment which includes the bracket, new metal tube from the Canister Close Valve, Body Plugs.

Note that if you are looking for the bracket to relocate the breather vent outside, it is standard on the XJ of the time, thus a breaker might be able to find it for you. NLA from Jaguar. Carries the same part number as the relocation kit part for our cars.

Will be testing every hose connection and the proper function of the Canister Close Valve. I have a source for one if mine is in any way compromised.

Here is my analysis of my particular problem. I drive in a very hot climate some times of the year commensurate with a major change in altitude during the route where this problem occurs. It is obvious that vapor pressure increases. My thinking is that the vapor recovery system is overwhelmed as it is very altitude specific. Even in cooler weather on the same route, some fuel smell is noticed outside of the vehicle although not within. Other vehicles on the same route do similar, so it is obvious that they are venting themselves due to the design limitations of these systems in general. I think that I have two things going on. Our cars' system is probably closer to marginal. If the car sits in the garage for a long while in hot weather, there is a faint smell in the boot but nowhere else. Please note that every connection and seal has been checked, and this only occurs over long time periods which would correspond with the canisters being at maximum vapor hold.

I think that I know where some of this originates, over a few years of repair. My canisters were flooded and ruined when we did not know that what I think is called the Rochester Valve failed, and some person thought that topping off the tank to the brim was a great idea for Winter storage. It had all of the symptoms, including the fuel bubbling up the filler neck at cap removal. Replaced the canisters firstly which ended the fuel smell, however the stupidity already mentioned and a nice person overfilling the tank a few times... It is my opinion that the replacement canisters were ruined again. After hunting all over the earth, found a replacement tank flange with a functioning Rochester Valve. NOTE for your sanity that I do not think that this valve, whatever it is truly called, works all that well if one repeatedly assaults the system with overfills. Thusly, run the fill slowly, and stop after it clicks off, or else a little at a time one might be polluting the canisters. This I proved as on a very long road trip I was venting fumes which a lot of people noticed and found that the vapor connection to the first canister had been blown off by the overfill by the helpful gas station attendant. Smoke tests have revealed no other leaks.

Here is my question given the above. There is a weight method of testing the canisters for contamination. Does anyone know the number?

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

After I eventually do this repair, will report the results. The goal is to have a proper capacity of the vapor recovery system and move the system vent for when it is used in more extreme cases.

Previously, I have checked all other connections for both leak and blockage and replaced a malfunctioning purge valve with a new updated unit. Would also surmise that if there is any issue with either the CCV or its vent not opening sufficiently, the system will not be able to completely purge also contributing to the problem. When it finally sends over concentrated fumes, I think that this is the reason why I get an occasional idle stumble without misfire or other data indicator as to why. A few have even suggested that the vent filter itself can become restricted in some cars which would limit proper purge, however my original is inside of the tower and not available for inspection.

Merely taking this to the next stage of problem solving and working systematically to eliminate the obvious in the progression.

Thanks for the interest and any assistance.

 

I had a fairly strong exterior gas smell coming from underneath the bed of my 1999 Ram back in late April / early May. Crawling under the bed and looking upwards immediately revealed a marble-sized hole in the vent hose running from the EVAP canister on top of the gas tank to the fuel filler pipe assembly on the drivers side of the bed wall. An aggressive squirrel had climbed up in there and done the dirty deed. Hose-barbing a new 4-inch section of fuel hose where the damage was fixed the issue. Make sure no feisty squirrel decided to feast on any of your hoses....

 

Thanks, nothing is showing damage, and it passed a smoke test as well as self-diagnostics pressure test all of the time. However, if the pressure is TOO HIGH, it can exceed the rating of the o-ring connections while not throwing a code. One of my tests will be if the canisters are clogged which might give a false pass to the system integrity.