Spent the last year working on another car and letting some things accumulate on my 04 XKR that need to be dealt with.
Got tired of cleaning this up every few months:


Gave my oil cooler lines a good look. No bulging or leaks at the connections or fittings save one. The lines enter the engine case at the front of the engine right center just above the oil pan edge. O rings keep them from leaking. Mine were shot.

They are clamped in place by a X plate and a single bolt.
I lifted the car and removed the under tray. Removing the tray gives you just enough room to do this without removing anything else. You can see both oil lines and the X brace here with the bolt already removed (10mm).

The X brace


Then wiggled the lines out of the block. They came out easier than I thought they would.
Did not drain the oil as I had just changed it about 1000 miles ago. Only lost maybe third of a quart.
Have a pan ready.


The trick here is to cross left (drivers side) line under the right (pax side) line as seen below. This gives you access to the tip of the line enough to pick the O ring off and replace it.


Then push that one up and cross the pax side line underneath and now you can get to that O ring and change it


Here is a shot with the pax side line pushed back into its opening, and the drivers side cavity still open. They took a bit of wiggling to get them seated. Note how clean the opening is. I was very careful not to push any grit in ahead of the pipes.

Everything back in place. I waited til afterward to spray the area with brake cleaner so as not to wash oil and dirt into the nice clean oil cavities.



Ran the engine for 10 minutes. So far no leaks.

Overall pretty easy job. Never done it before and took me about 90 minutes working slow. O rings were about $20 shipped. The ultimate solution is to replace all four of the oil cooler hoses but this will do until that day comes.

 

Well done, and great tutorial. It should come in handy if/when I am faced with this job. What is the part number of the two O-rings and where did you source them from?

 

KSH119530 on eBay $13 each. Price is stupid for just one O ring but I didn’t feel like trying to find one on my own just to save $20. It was nice to have the right ones on hand and do it all in one go.

 

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...assembly/30100


for what it’s worth, The genuine Jaguar part is about $11.00 from Barratt.



O-ring

O Ring

KSH119530

Genuine
Retail US$11.76
US$11.17
Jaguar In Stock

 

Shipping is the deal breaker for me on lots of small parts. Just recently bought a half dozen Trex clips for $34 from another sponsor. Shipping was $20 for something that came in a snack size baggie inside an envelope. The eBay O rings were OEM too and $13 but shipping was included. I always use sponsors for large orders or expensive parts but these were a better deal elsewhere.

 

Shipping can be pricey when just ordering small parts. That’s why whenever ordering parts I give the car a good examination and order any parts that I can foresee that are likely to be needed in the immediate future together with what’s on today’s to-do list. It helps to have a spare parts section of the garage so there’s no waiting when the inevitable small job(s) crop up.

The forum is an invaluable crystal ball to guide ones purchases for that “trouble ‘round the bend”.

Z

 

My 02 XKR has giving me early signs of oil leaks, burning oil smell and today cloud of smoke from hood while stop at stop lights.
any recommendation of sourcing these 4 oil lines?

 

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...Parts/Families


First of all, don’t drive the car another inch before finding out exactly what is leaking. You risk ruining the engine.

Z

 

Thanks Zray, took car to mechanics to check out provenance of oil leaks.
Checked cooler lines, pump... It was coming from valves cover, got a kit and have both replaced and cleaned the mess.
Car has 57,xxx miles so replaced spark plugs too..
Everything else checked out good. car runs great.

 

great !!

for future reference, it’s been accepted that the oil cooler lines have a 10 year reliability life span. So keep an occasional eye on them for swelling around the metal crimps. The swelling can occur without any initial leaking, then they will burst and it’s a geyser of oil.

Z

nota bene: the best way to keep your car in road worthy shape is to drive it every day. In general, and specifically these cars do not fare well during periods of idleness just sitting unused. The fuel pumps especially are prone to locking up if not used for a while.

I don’t know how long “a while” is so taking no chances and driving my ‘02 at every opportunity even when I’ve got no particular place to go

 

Your comment" for future reference, it’s been accepted that the oil cooler lines have a 10 year reliability life span."
07/20 Got car in July 2020 with 47,000 miles. Been sitting in someone garage for 2 years...
Had to spend a little $ to get it ready as daily car. ( control air bushings, thermostat, spider hose, coolant flush/refill.
10/21 New tires.
02/22 @57,100miles: Spark plugs, Valves gasket kit
Are you saying that I should be warry of these oil cooler lines for its age rather than mileage ???

 

in a word, yes. Recall my comment about these cars will deteriorate just sitting ?

read this topic in its entirety, a good overview of others have experienced.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...moment-248348/

then if desiring more input on the life span of the hoses do a forum search on that and also start another thread about just that. Should be interesting reading

Z

 

Interesting thread. I just replaced three of the four engine oil cooler lines on my heap. After discovering a persistent small leak from the vicinity of the output and return ports in the block I was hoping that, like funracer, a couple of new O rings would solve the problem. No such luck. On close examination I found the feed and return ports were dry but oil was leaking from the crimp ferrules on the flex portion of the two lines closest to the block, the cooler feed side was particularly bad. In such a low pressure application (<100psi) I was surprised to see such a failure, particularly as the four flex portion crimp ferrules on the oil cooler side were all pristine. A couple of thoughts...the entire cooler side lines are clipped/clamped rigidly in place over their entire length and the flex portions experience essentially zero movement in operation. On the engine side, the hard portions of the lines, on both ends, are also secured but, due to engine movement, the flex portions are constantly 'working' very slightly in operation. I wonder if even this small movement, on such a short run of flex hose, is enough to degrade them at the engine side crimp over time? I cut open one of the failing lines and was interested to see the pipe dimensions at the crimp (pics below). Also interesting is how the hard portions of all the cooler side lines are aluminium tube (18 mm nominal ID) that has been expanded to 19 mm ID at the crimp, but the hard portions of the engine side lines are only aluminium on one side. The ends that go into the block fittings are 19 mm ID steel (Bundy?) tube. Do the crimps perform differently on steel vs aluminium tube?

A further discovery was signs of serious abrasion on the hard portion of the cooler side feed line. Evidently it had been chafing against the driver side front fender liner, probably for its entire 56 K mile lifetime. At the worst spot the wall of the tube could actually be deflected sightly with firm thumbnail pressure!

My first inclination was to ditch the entire 4 piece Heath Robinson (Rube Goldberg?) oil cooler plumbing arrangement and re-engineer it. By getting someone to TIG some 1/2" NPT fittings onto the existing engine side steel stub fittings I thought I could use 10 AN fittings to make a very simple and reasonably inexpensive set-up. After doing more measuring and research I realised that modifying the existing stub fittings wouldn't work due to the limited space. Two new custom built fittings would be needed. Plan B...take the failing lines to a hydraulic repair shop. I tried three shops in San Antonio and couldn't get anyone to take the job. Seems getting the right size ferrules and swage tools to make secure crimps was an issue. Plan C....I reluctantly dipped into the rainy day fund and ordered new OEM lines. Crazy expensive, but thanks to Dan and Gary at Jagbits for a their quick response. Onward and upward.

Ports in and out of block are dry but seeping oil visible between hose and ferrule at the crimp.

Another view of the dry ports with clamp plate removed.

Oil was seeping from both crimps but feed side was worse than return.

Difference between crimp to aluminium pipe and crimp to steel pipe (circled)

Opening up the worst failing crimp.

Steel stub pipe at engine, all other hard portions are aluminium. Not much in the way of retaining barbs?

Cooler side line, no sign of seepage.

Another view of the cooler side line. Pristine.

Chafe damage on cooler side hard line from fender liner, estimate approx 50% of pipe wall thickness rubbed away.

This is the flex portion of the chafed cooler side line. Without chafe damage this line would not have been changed.

The fender liner chafe must be a known problem. The replacement cooler side line came with this substantial foam rubber protective sleeve.

Is this the best design Ford/Jag could come up with for the new millenium?

So much easier for a 75 yr old to do a job like this with QuickJack! Best Grand I ever spent.

 

Good luck with the new parts. I’ve had two new Jaguar branded hoses from SNG Baratt leak from the crimp.


Z

 

Ouch! That's scary. Hope I have better luck. I haven't run the car yet as I've been down with the' rona for a couple of weeks, but after your comment I'll be closely watching the crimps! The parts I got from JagBits were all branded as genuine Jaguar-Land Rover (UK manufacture). All the package labels were marked 2018 but each of the three lines had individual 2019 mfg date tags(?) and they all fitted perfectly, but who knows how they were sourced. I can't imagine there are too many places that could make such complex parts...small batch, CNC tube bending and tight tolerance fab... but who knows? If all the parts suppliers are getting them from the same place I might also be in trouble? Fingers crossed!



21st Nov 2019 tag

 

For future reference, there is a good likelihood that the O-rings used on these vehicles that were made when Ford owned Jaguar are US Standard AS568 series. The size -013 (~7/16 ID x 1/16 XS) is used for the transmission oil cooler lines where they attach to the radiator, and might also be used for other connections such as these oil lines. The material is Buna-N (Nitrile). HNBR would also work as it is even more oil resistant than Nitrile. They cost about 20 cents each and should be available locally in most places. Get yourself a good quality assortment and you will not need to pay the long price for the brand name label.