2004 XJR 92,000 mi.

About 40K miles ago, coolant light went on & wifey, while 8 hrs. out of town, followed our insurance companies directions to the dealership. Jag dealer broke one of the 4 bolts & suggested that we put a little coolant in before we started her each day & bring her back. Well, since we only needed to add about 1/4 cup per week, we decided to just leave it alone & continue to add coolant. Life was hectic at the time & we were away a lot.

Now that I have pulled the Supercharger off, I decided to take a look. Yep, sure enough, the bottom left bolt can't be seen. I have the other 3 bolts out. The water pump housing moves slightly.

Question: Since the part of the bolt passing through the water pump housing is smooth, do you think I'm safe to tap lightly to start her coming out. Does the pump just pull straight out?

Also, even though I have all the hoses disconnected and the the radiator drain is open, there is still water in the water pump? I suspect there may be a block drain somewhere? Any reason to drain the block?

Thanks & best,

Steve S.

 

Two. One each bank of the vee, outer side, low.

We have recycling facilities here for coolants & jugs, diluted included. Use of the block drains just makes collection messier.

I'm good with draining via a detached lower rad hose only, first flush with an additive, second with plain water, full heater system circulation included on both.

There's hardly even the least trace of glycol by that second flush, so no big deal on the block drains getting any more of the old coolant out than the double-flushing does and it was all collected more easily.

If your broken bolt has enough 'shank' left to get a grip on, there is a lower-cost version of the legendary "Knipex" Swedish wrenches that can grip it tightly enough to just unscrew it:

https://www.zoro.com/knipex-25-in-l-...30/i/G0171057/

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-57446.html

And/or it is good to have a set of "stud extractor" sockets somewhere in your half-acre of tooling:

 

Hi Steve,
yes the water pump comes straight out, but if it is the original that came with the car, it may a bit of a struggle because of the gaskets they used at the time. It consists of an o-ring and a paper gasket, and I remember that I could only get the pump out by destroying both o-ring and gasket.

Here's a picture from the manual:



The design of the gasket and the pump was changed later on, the new ones only have one metal gasket and no o-ring anymore, and I would definitely suggest to replace the water pump with a new one, and make sure to really remove all of the old gaskets, which is a bit fiddly (I needed a sharp blade and a screwdriver to scrape off everything).

There will still be some water in the pump, but not much, as you can never get all of it out. For the job you are doing, you have already drained the system, so you are good to go.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

In the first picture is the broken #8 bolt. As you see, it is in, I started to say block, but I think it is something attached to the block.

It is just a gnat’s hiney below the mounting surface.

Please share your experience in successfully removing such a bolt. Because the snout is removed, I think I have enough room to remove using an angled drill. If I can’t, I suspect that I can always replace the thing-a-majig to which it is attached.

My ideas:

1. Using a punch ½ the diameter of the bolt shaft, whack it with a ball peen (See, I’ve learned what that it is - talk about impressing the ladies!).
   
2. Start using the boring part of the extraction tool counterclockwise. If the whack broke the corrosion free, with a little luck, the shaft will start to turn out. If this works, pop a cork & have a party.
   
3. If the boring end doesn’t start the shaft to turn, then switch to the extractor end and hope it works.
   
4. If still no luck, explore using a larger diameter drill bit.
   

Does anyone have a procedure they can share?

 

The bolt that's broken off is in the front of the cylinder head, and is an M6 X 50mm. If you can centre the drill, and use a 5mm drill bit, you may be able get a larger extractor in to remove it. Spray some penetrating oil on it for a day before going any further.

Apparently the Technician at the dealership trying to remove the water pump most likely used an impact or other air powered tool.

 

I wonder if there is a punch-like device that just fits the hole with something like a nail in the middle?

 

@04Xjrsteve Steve, drilling hole in center of that bolt will be a challenge, not for the faintharted. I would recommend to make a sort of drill bushing to pilot the drill bit, make sure bushing is centrered over brocken bolt. I do not know how to center it. At this point I would consider removing radiator, but then again, I am not professional car mechanic.
Just in case, as a way out, if the inner threads will become damaged beyond chasing internal threads with a tap, one can repair them with helicoils.

 

@04Xjrsteve Also:
https://www.mcmaster.com/3497A11/
One can probably find similar device elswere for much less

 

Here are the two Extractor sets I swear by (pun intended). And, as Big Koshka mentioned, accurate pilot hole centered on broken bit is the key thing. I always use a good grade center punch to make indent for drill bit to center on.

Irwin Tools IRWIN Screw Extractor/Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) [Amazon]

https://www.rennsteig.com/en/product...l/4719043.html

 

CT, et al, needless to say, my likelihood of success is infinitely more likely with your input!. After Big Koshka's, I ordered a spring loaded punch.

I have never seen bolts powdery as the ones securing the water pump. As per NB, I have been watering the broken with PT Blaster regularly. I will be curious to see how the penetrant penetrates which should be obvious. Hope I'm not being presumptuous.

My theory is that, after some serious tapping and penetrant applications, she should be fairly loose. Since I have a lh bit and extractor that is for a smaller bolt, I will try it first. I have a tool for keeping things straight that I've used on my boats for 50 years; hope it will fit here. Anyhow, I figure that if I keep things as true as possible, I can always go bigger.

Have a great week!

PS: CT, may be in the Holy City in June. Will pm you; would like to buy you a drink & see that ride.

 

I would try and avoid using an extractor if you can, the main reason being if you snap it you now have a hardened steel rod to drill out. It would be eaier to get another engine LOL. My suggestion would be to get a nut that has an inner diameter a little smaller than the broken bolt then place the nut over the bolt and weld it to the broken bolt. The thermal shock from the welding should make it easy to unscrew with a socket placed on the nut.

 

You can also CAREFULLY use a small chisel to see if the remains of the bolt will start to turn.

 

NB, great minds run in... I've been thinking of trying an ice pick. If the knocks & penetrant are working. A little counter on the perimeter...

 

Great idea, Joe! What machine should I buy?

 

I'll add the following. Put some heat on there before extracting. I had a broken (snapped) bolt. Luckily I had some meat on the bolt. I had to use a dremmel to make a cut and luckily the heat produced loosened the bolt up.

Good luck

 

With things as they are, this doesn't seem to be doable. Now I see why the mechanic was putting me off.

Is it possible to remove the water pump housing & move it to the work bench? It appears not because it seems to be part of the engine block.

It might be doable with the pictured fly wheel AND ITS HOUSING removed. What is involved with that? It appears to be a few bolts, but I don't know if the wheel with its housing will come off easily or not. Anyone have experience with this?

The spring loaded punch might be good with wood or sheet metal, but not this steel. Since my angle drill didn't fit, I tried using that flexble cable attachment, but at the angles, enough pressure can't be applied and without a propoer center punch...

What about just installing the water pump without the 5th bolt?

If it is not too difficult to remove the wheel with its housing, I think that makes the most sense. Then, fashion some kind of guide & use as large a bit as possible.

How much trouble is it to remove the radiator? I'm not sure that I will need to, but just in case, it would be nice to know.

 

Using Joe Dredd's solution...it really might be best to use a flux-core MIG welder to tack-weld a threaded rod, nut, or another smaller bolt to the existing broken bolt. I have very successfully used the "weld method" using a 10.6 hardness or better bolt nose-in to broken bolts on a 20year old JD Gator. and the heat will only improve chances of it coming out clean.

If you are not welder type, find someone with mobile welder rig to come out and do it for you. The fee to weld it will be a small amount compared to the havoc you could create using extractors, chisels, etc.

 

Fully agree here. Heat is your friend. You'll find what is left of that bolt will come out rather easily.

Also, to answer your question on the radiator. It's a bear to remove. I'd try and avoid doing that.

 

When I first heard Joe D's welding solution, I, too, thought it sounded great.
I notice that the MIG welders are very reasonable & one of them had 5000 reviews with almost all 5 stars. Unless you think it improbable that I could successfully do this, I'll have a go at it. Of course, I have a lot of study 1st.

 

Can an Easy-Flux be used instead of a MIG?


The scenario similar to mine starts at about minute 7. He even doesn't get it right the first time. He addresses my major concern about welding the bolt to the head due to inexperience, but he explains that the weld won't stick to the aluminum. Also, note that he just builds up the slag & uses vice grips directly on the slag. I think this is worth a try. Please let me know if my thinking is in error. Any and all help much appreciated.

Titanium Easy-Flux 125 Amp: https://www.harborfreight.com/easy-f...der-57861.html

Thanks and best,

Steve S.