A few days ago I turn on the car and the engine makes a hellish noise and the car threw all. So I turned off immediately. I restart after some time and works regularly. Before this it was fine.

1) After about a week, the yellow engine light comes on and the glow plug flashes and the fuel consumption increases
2) The car starts badly with cold motor (the candlesticks work they have been replaced). I can't go to go beyond 1100 rpm, a lot of white smoke comes out of the muffler.
3) After about ten minutes, when the engine is hot, I can accelerate the engine turns up to 3/4000 RPM and the car looks almost normal that raises a lot and smoke stinks much less but stinks.

I tried the remedies of remedies:

1) "Bardhal" product for cleaning injectors placed in the fuel tank and showed the smoke but did not solve the problem
2) checked that the turbo lever was not blocked, it moves,
3) Heating plug: replace all and now work but the problem was not that and the yellow light flashes equally

The codes that I can see from the LCD panel are:
- R 0506
- Nr 0506
- EE 01
- DT 008F
- CF1 0C
- CF2 EB
- CF3 02
- CF4 05
- CF5 3F
- DTC D900
- DTC 9318
- DTC E510
- DTC E511
- DTC 9205
- DTC 9601
- DTC 9600
- DTC 9359
- DTC 9202
- DTC A141

The first mechanic tried to connect OBD, sees some generic errors cannot see the engine errors and believes that the injectors could be (but it is not sure)

The second mechanic, however, says that on the basis of what I told him about the strong noises coming from the engine that I had previously heard, on this type of Ford engines, it went out of -phase and the curtain valves may have ruined to the engine cylinders.

What do you recommend?

 

Franc, I would investigate the fuel injectors. I would bet that you have 1 that is atleast partially stuck open. I know when you have an injector stick open, it will create lots of smoke and smells.

ON a side note, getting the codes from the instrument cluster are not of much use as these are normally stored since the beginning of the car's life and who knows when the code actually came in. Pulling codes from the OBD port is key. If you can get the codes from there and post them here, we can possibly help narrow things down with a bit more confidence.

 

The ObdII appliance should arrive shortly and I will write to you the errors he sees

 

Or, search "Mr Muscle " fix in this forum. Might just do the trick.

 

I just installed the Obdii ELM 327 Bluetooth adapter. I tried with different applications and connects to the phone but cannot connect to the control unit (Elm is ok, ECM Disconnected). To tell the truth also the mechanic, with a more sudden scanner he had not been able to connect to the engine control unit ... what can I do?

 

Franc, I would first check the fuse for the OBD port. NOt sure what it is for your car, but it should be listed in your owners manual. If you don't have the manual, let me know and I will look at my references at home to tell you where this fuse is. If the fuse is good, then it is possible that your problem is a bad ECM and it is causing a mis-fueling of the engine, resulting in the white smoke.

 

I already check the OBDII fuse n. 25 and 32, They work. Two things I want to add, the first is that I have been detached for some time the navigator and the CD charger in the back of the trunk, the second is that when I heard strong noises when I turned on the car, I had loaded the trunk with about 200 kg and not I would like that they have damaged the electrical cables pass under the mat.

 

I ordered the 21 key to remove the injectors and remove the valve lid, and while I wait, I tested the rail pressure valve:

1) On the disassembled rail valve, using the tester on all three PINs I receive infinite resistance (1) which means open or interrupted circuit. I then tried to connect a 9 -volts battery but I did not hear any clicks or noise, I tried with 12 volts and equally I did not hear any noise (the valve should go to 5 volts)

2) On the jack mounted on the valve and with the engine ignition key in position II, inserting the needles of the tester I saw 5.2 V on the two external wires and 0.02 V on the central pin (positive on one time at a time and negative a battery mass)

Does it seem normal to you or is the valve damaged?

 

Based on your voltage measurements of the fuel rail pressure sensor, that would tell me that the sesnor is failed internally and telling the car that hte fuel rail is too high of pressure and the car is trying to lower the pressure, resulting in what you are seeing.

 

Does anyone have the measure of the correct tensions with the mounted pieces and the internal resistance of the disassembled valve as I did in the photo?