Just wondering if there are any drawings with hose sizes attached......thinking about replacing all hoses under the bonnet, that i can easily get to. Cleaning up the engine bay project. Tks....any suggestions.

 

I went snooping and found yours is a V12, might pay to add that to your sig to make things easier for us oldies.

No drawing that I know of. The parts catalogues are usually OK, sort of.

The easy hoses you talk about would be no advantage, as someone else would have done the EASY ones also by now. Its the ones in the depths of hell you need to get friendly with.

The 3 heater at the rear, FUN, not.
The bypass hose on the top of the water pump, hahaha, a/c compressor needs lifting to do that sucker, and the 2 at the ends of that bypass pipe will test your senes of humour seriously.
That actual bottom radiator hose is also fun.
Then there is the myriad of small hoses that bleed this and bleed that, and they will be in a sad state for sure.
The mud build up in the metal header tank on the LH side of the engine bay will need flushing, as will the mud in the atmospheric tank in the hidden panel behind the LHF wheel.

If any of those "hard to get at" hoses decide to go AWOL, that engine will be toast in less than a heartbeat.

 

There are kits of hoses, about 13 in total of various sizes. You may find many of the pipe ends under the hoses show, some, or lots of rust. Good to check operation of heater valve, and also replace thermostats, and check engine driven fan, and radiator caps.
I just completed replacement on all mine, also changed most of the clamps to spring, bought 3 bags of various sizes from grainger. No leaks at all since. These keep tension on over various Temps.

 

No diagram will offer you much more than the car itself will. It all comes down to getting a box full of hoses and matching the new one with the old ones on the car. There aren't any that really look alike, so it isn't that bad. The hard part is doing the actual replacing in some areas.

If you have the space and a replacement hose, most of the time it is much easier to get a razor blade and simply cut the hose parallel to the fitting, then peel/unwrapp it from the fitting. This is much easier that trying to pull or twist on an old rotten hose.

Don't forget the top hat seals, they leak too!

 

You can get hose kit on ebay I think 12 hoses.

 

here are some sets on EBay ASI PROCOOL Jaguar XJS V12 silicone radiator heater Hose kit RED | eBay

and these are vacuum lines http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...72.m2749.l2658

 

I did read somewhere that silicone hoses should be avoided because when they fail they go completely rather than starting to dribble or whatever.

 

Can anyone describe how to change the hoses on the ends of the bypass hose? Can I do just one? Should I do all three? The driver's side is bad on mine. It doesn't look all that bad to change. ??? Ha ha. I can get a socket on the front clamp, may have to take the upper radiator hose off to get to the back clamp. Is there enough room to wiggle on a new hose?

 

Assuming you are talking about the cross pipe on the V12, it is an absolute sod. The first problem is access if the fan and rad are there, but it can be done, just. All three have to be done together and almost simultaneously. A helper is a big advantage, too. Soak the things in very hot water for a good 15 minutes before fitting, having removed the pipe first so the hot new ones can go straight on. remove the top hoses to the rad, as you mention. This is all about access.

Grease the exit tubes of the thermostats a bit, fix the new hoses onto the crosspipe and the water pump outlet tube from the bottom of the crosspipe. Then sort of push the water pump tube down onto the pump exit and get the end hoses as close as possible to the thermostat exit tubes, and try to force the tubes to go over the exits by pushing/deforming them so they at last pop over. Preload the hose clips onto the crosspipe before you start, and then you can slide them into place.

Alternatively, if this does not work, fix the hoses to the thermostat exits/water pump and try to get them over the crosspipe. This is sometimes easier, as you can use a short screwdriver to run the hose round the crosspipe where it deforms and tries to double over. You may even find it is easier to do one hose on one (eg thermostat) and another on the other (eg crosspipe).
Greg

 

i recently had to do this as i was refurbishing the engine coolant rails

the best way i found to get the crossover hoses on was to fully push the short hoses onto the crossover pipe so the ends were flush , then offering up the crossover pipe the hoses can be ' wiggled ' onto the stubs of the castings , as mentioned above, to the right location , make sure the hose clips are already in place so they can be easily slipped over the hoses and tightened

BB

 

I did it the way BB suggested the first time.

Next time round my sense of humour reserves were low, as was the JD, so I simply cut the bend off the LH side, leaving a stub of course, fitted the RH and the pump hoses, soooooo simple now, then a Honda Civic top radiator hose did the job of the LH side as if made for Jaguar and NOT Honda. Took 30 minutes including cutting, finding a hose in the stock at work, and filling/bleeding the system. A/c comp stayed in place.

 

Brilliant, just brilliant, Grant.
Greg

 

Thanks all! Grant, can you pop over to Pennsylvania for a couple minutes? Just kidding. I'll let you know how it goes,

 

What year is the car? We offer a complete cotton reinforced hose kit for around $60

 

2 hours later. Well, I got the two end hoses off, the driver's side was tough, the other one, easy. I cut most of the first one off with an exacto blade. Then I loosened the clamps on the center hose. Yes, you have to replace all 3, the water pipe is so close to the thermostat housing that there is no room to slip a hose on.

 

I am assuming that the a/c compressor is out of the way. If not, then you will be pushing that brown stuff up hill ALL day.

No need to remove it, simply unbolt it, take the belt off, lift it by hand, using a good dose of common sense so the hoses dont do crazy things, and wedge it in the UP position with a block or 2 of wood.

Now you can wiggle the water pump top hose off with the cross pipe intact.

I refit the water pump hose to the pump, NEW clamps, and then use "rubber grease" on the ends for the small hoses, and slide them onto the pipe as fat as they will go. Grease up the large spout and insert it in the water pump hose, at the same time JUGGLING the ends to somewhere near where they should be, and when that water pump hose "pops" over the pipe end, the small enda will line up. Work those greased hoses off the pipe and into position, NEW clamps again, and tighten them all, then recheck them again.

Refit the a/c comp and belt.

Back in the day that task required MANY JD snorts before and during, until I worked out the Honda method, and the job was then done sober.

Another hose that will suffice instead of the Honda, would be a top hose from an ORIGINAL Morris Mini (1964 ish), but stateside that is probably harder to find than a good mechanic.

 

Grant, yeah, that was my next question. I can't get the water pipe to move up, off the center hose. You already answered my question, do I need to take the compressor belt off? Yes, I do, but I also need to move the compressor? There is a knuckle sticking out of the engine, almost directly on top of the center hose which seems to prevent me from lifting the water pipe. I'm so close...

 

Uh oh, reaching an impasse here. The simplest solution seems to be to just cut the a/c belt, the a/c doesn't work anyway, and, never will, but, I hate to do that. I can't get to the two 12 or 13mm bolts on the back of the compressor to move it, really? two bolts in the valley, on the back of the compressor, impossible to get at. Another try would be loosening the compressor belt, but, to do that, I need to loosen the adjustment pulley, a 12 or 13mm bolt that is difficult to get at, maybe if I remove the passenger air box? Yikes, I'm disassembling the entire car. Right now, both end hoses are off, the center hose is loose, but still clinging to the Y pipe, and holding it in, I could cut the center hose, if that would accomplish anything. Please help!

 

I haven't replaced hoses on my V12 yet, but as others on here have suggested there are a lot of hoses and some are very difficult to access, makes me think the extra expense of Kevlar reinforced might be worthwhile.

 

Cutting that water pump inlet hose will get it all off.

Now ya gotta get it back on, and cutting it will not work, it will leak, haha.

Remove the cruise bellows, if its still there, then use whatever it takes to get those rear bolts out, or even unbolt that bracket at the V mounting screws.

The adjusting nuts on the threaded rods are 14mm.

If the a/c is a remove option, do it now, drink some more, and get it out of the way. With that compressor totally out of there that task is simple.