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My 05 X-Type right front c v shaft needs to be replaced. I bought a new one and read that i need to split the c v axle from the half shaft. this i understand, but I'm told I will need to use a special toll to do this. So has any one come up with other means of splitting the shafts with out the special slitter ? Any and all suggestions would be greatly helpful.
Rather than start another new right hand axle thread I thought I would wake this one back up again. I had a bit of success today in my ongoing efforts to rebuild my wife's X-type.
So, How long does it take to swap the right axle?
Kids: "Mr. Owl, how many licks does it take to reach the chewy center of a Tootsie Roll Pop?"
Mr. Owl: "Let's see; One (lick), Two (lick), Three (lick) ...CRUNCH!!! It takes three licks."
----------
Kids: "Larry, how many days does it take to reach the chewy center of the right hand axle on a Jaguar X-type?"
Larry: "Let's see; Day one (bash!), Day two (bash!), Day three (bash!) ... POP! It takes three days.
----------"
Seriously though folks, I beat on this thing for three days off and on before I got the outer axle off the intermediate shaft. The following here is a sort of "how to". Honestly, going into the third day, I gave up on civility and approached it as the axle was coming off or the car was going to the dismantler. (which would be a shame as the car itself is in great shape.) I'm not responsible if you BTF out of yours and you end up with scrap. It could happen. You've got to ask yourself: "Do I feel lucky?"
Also I did this with engine out. I am not sure how well this would work in situ. I just depends on how much the axle and intermediate shaft like each other.
I went to the official Jaguar tool store, Harbor Freight Tools and bought their Item number 93980 Puller/Bearing Separator, a clam shell type device which makes a wedge to supply increasing separation pressure as you pull the halves together by tightening up on bolts and nuts. On the way home with your new tool, go by a hardware store and purchase two 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts, 5 inches long and 6 to 8 hardened washers (or 12mm grade 10.8, 130mm long). Once you get home, open the box containing the tool, take out the supplied 12mm bolts, and throw them the heck in thrash! There, I saved you one day already!
I was able to remove the rubber seal intact with a pair of needle nose pliers. This is good, as the dealer said he wanted about $40USD for one if he could get it. I slid the seal up toward the transfer case to get it out of the way.
You'll want to put the flat side of the separator toward the CV joint, and the beveled side toward the transfer case. Otherwise you run out of clamping travel. Tighten the bolts and nuts beyond all reason. Stupid tight. Don't tell your friends how tight you tightened the nuts. They'll have you commited. Use a block of wood or something to work against one side of the separator and beat the unholy #$+%! out of the other side of the tool. Then retighten and flail away some more. Do this for about two days with occasional breaks to cuss the car, the tool, me; work it out, brother, work it out!! Rotate the tool and have it out with the other side, too; balance the violence out some. About the time you give up, you'll make one more massive unholier than any other unholy bash on one side of the tool, things will seem to have moved a little, and the separator tool will spin. And you'll say: "OH NO! Did I break it??" But no, you are free at last.... or you are about call the scrapper.
Now here is another thing to worry about: putting the new axle in. Mine wouldn't go. After several attempts, I pulled spring clip off. Even though I bought the axle rebuilt, clean, new looking, there as a small piece of the original spring clip stuck in the groove, just under the new spring clip. I dug that out, put the new clip back on, and the axle snapped right in, no problem. Just goes to show, it's always something... I slid the seal back in place and pushed it in where it goes. First with fingers and then with a screwdriver blade.
Looking good now. Tomorrow I will mate the new engine to the tranny.
By the way the left axle was no big deal at all. Took about a half hour, and acted like about any other axle on any other car.
Last edited by AlfaVeloce; Dec 19, 2012 at 11:56 PM.
You can drive a wedge between the inner CV and the shaft in the transfer case.
Just DON'T PULL THE INNER SHAFT OUT TOO FAR if it comes loose.
Start with a small screw driver and gradually insert larger wedges until the axle separates.
The 'through shaft' in the transfer case has a clip on the end that will tear the seal inside the case. There is a distance that the shaft can be pulled out before the clip damages the seal.
Tearing that seal is my concern. And finding a half shaft spliter is near impossible, other than the one jaguar has listed. the CV is going out the back door and I need to change it out with the new one before I damage anything else.
Its spliting the shafts that Im looking to solve here with out the special tool.
Thanks Bob for your tip and any other tip that may come along.
The inner shaft will not move if you don't pull it from the transfer case. The outer CV axle is the component that needs to be replaced. The lower ball joint can be removed to allow the hub to swing out and release the splined shaft. You do NOT need the special tools every time you work on a car. Sometimes the special tools are worthless and use up more time than required.
lol. Seeing as this is my first jag, it throws a neebie some times. I have already had the lower ball joint popped and when I started to pull the CV shaft out , the inner half started coming out as well. It came out abought 3 inches when i realized something was not quite right. so I pushed it back in and went too the forum where I read up on it. So not having the special tool asked for any assistance that any one may know to remove it with out the speacial tool. I will attempt to do as you said some time this week after work. I will post as to the out come when I get it done. I have also ordered a new halfshaft seal from Jag, as I believe the old one will get destroyed useing the screwdrivers as wedges.
Rather than start another new right hand axle thread I thought I would wake this one back up again. I had a bit of success today in my ongoing efforts to rebuild my wife's X-type.
So, How long does it take to swap the right axle?
Kids: "Mr. Owl, how many licks does it take to reach the chewy center of a Tootsie Roll Pop?"
Mr. Owl: "Let's see; One (lick), Two (lick), Three (lick) ...CRUNCH!!! It takes three licks."
----------
Kids: "Larry, how many days does it take to reach the chewy center of the right hand axle on a Jaguar X-type?"
Larry: "Let's see; Day one (bash!), Day two (bash!), Day three (bash!) ... POP! It takes three days.
----------"
Seriously though folks, I beat on this thing for three days off and on before I got the outer axle off the intermediate shaft. The following here is a sort of "how to". Honestly, going into the third day, I gave up on civility and approached it as the axle was coming off or the car was going to the dismantler. (which would be a shame as the car itself is in great shape.) I'm not responsible if you BTF out of yours and you end up with scrap. It could happen. You've got to ask yourself: "Do I feel lucky?"
Also I did this with engine out. I am not sure how well this would work in situ. I just depends on how much the axle and intermediate shaft like each other.
I went to the official Jaguar tool store, Harbor Freight Tools and bought their Item number 93980 Puller/Bearing Separator, a clam shell type device which makes a wedge to supply increasing separation pressure as you pull the halves together by tightening up on bolts and nuts. On the way home with your new tool, go by a hardware store and purchase two 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts, 5 inches long and 6 to 8 hardened washers (or 12mm grade 10.8, 130mm long). Once you get home, open the box containing the tool, take out the supplied 12mm bolts, and throw them the heck in thrash! There, I saved you one day already!
I was able to remove the rubber seal intact with a pair of needle nose pliers. This is good, as the dealer said he wanted about $40USD for one if he could get it. I slid the seal up toward the transfer case to get it out of the way.
You'll want to put the flat side of the separator toward the CV joint, and the beveled side toward the transfer case. Otherwise you run out of clamping travel. Tighten the bolts and nuts beyond all reason. Stupid tight. Don't tell your friends how tight you tightened the nuts. They'll have you commited. Use a block of wood or something to work against one side of the separator and beat the unholy #$+%! out of the other side of the tool. Then retighten and flail away some more. Do this for about two days with occasional breaks to cuss the car, the tool, me; work it out, brother, work it out!! Rotate the tool and have it out with the other side, too; balance the violence out some. About the time you give up, you'll make one more massive unholier than any other unholy bash on one side of the tool, things will seem to have moved a little, and the separator tool will spin. And you'll say: "OH NO! Did I break it??" But no, you are free at last.... or you are about call the scrapper.
Now here is another thing to worry about: putting the new axle in. Mine wouldn't go. After several attempts, I pulled spring clip off. Even though I bought the axle rebuilt, clean, new looking, there as a small piece of the original spring clip stuck in the groove, just under the new spring clip. I dug that out, put the new clip back on, and the axle snapped right in, no problem. Just goes to show, it's always something... I slid the seal back in place and pushed it in where it goes. First with fingers and then with a screwdriver blade.
Looking good now. Tomorrow I will mate the new engine to the tranny.
By the way the left axle was no big deal at all. Took about a half hour, and acted like about any other axle on any other car.
Last edited by AlfaVeloce; Dec 19, 2012 at 11:56 PM.
Why can't I just remove the rubber boot from the inner joint and remove the half shaft (as long as there is no damage to the metal housing). And then remove the metal housing from the new half shaft, grease everything really well, put the new cv end into the old metal housing, and clamp the new boot on. Of course then finish the rest of the install on the outer end.
You will have to wait until after reassembly to find out whether transmission fluid leaks into transfer case. There are two seals on the shaft about a inch apart, if you are lucky at least one will be OK.
That is exactly what NOT TO DO. The retaining clip on the end of the shaft will usually damage/tear seals. The shaft should be installed through the transfer case WITHOUT the clip and THEN the clip installed. Then mount transfer case on the gearbox.
If you managed to not damage the seals on the way out, you might damage them on the way back in.
It was surprisingly easy to remove and install the shaft, there were no stops or hickups on the way at all. I would at least have expected it to go a bit heavier once it has passed the two seals. In any case, let's hope at least one seal is ok.
Wow I really wish I wouldve looked up this thread before pulling the whole thing out like ThomasX (and every other person who ever removed a simple cv halfshaft from a trans/dif/transaxle).
Any possible updates from anyone who's ever removed/installed the entire shaft assembly through the trans/t-case without damaging those golden seals of death?
Not much that I can say about the seal, because I have not had to replace this yet, but I did buy the special Jaguar tool- found someone selling it used for 20 bucks- and I wonder how it works, exactly
Aha, so it is possible to split the shaft between the inner joint and the plastic cover. That's normally the way to go the, replacing the shaft or a CV-joint.
right front C V axle replacement
