My first post. I have been reading other posts here for 3 days and really appreciate the help that the members give back and forth to each other. I have learned a lot but I do have a question: as I tear into this and remove the intake manifold to replace plug and coil for #2, what gaskets can I reuse and what gaskets should be replaced? I don’t want to have a do-over.
2005 X-type 3.0L
120,000 on car and 95,000 on this motor (wife drove into deep puddle during heavy thunderstorm last year and hydro-locked engine, insurance covered replacement from bone yard.)
Back story - Prior engine kept throwing codes and dealer replaced the injector rail twice. Each time it was about 30,000 miles before engine threw codes again. Don’t remember what exact codes were since it was covered under warranty but remember it seemed to be cylinder #3 each time. Dealer would replace plug and coil pack each time. Sometimes it would run fine for 5-10,000 miles before it would act up again, other times, it would throw codes before I got 2 blocks from the dealership.
That was the old engine. When the engine was replaced last year, I requested the repair shop keep the nearly new injector rail since I felt this was the cause of problems. Being the tight-wad I am, I have always filled-up with Regular grade fuel. My wife (who drives the car most of the time) uses Mid-grade. In retrospect, I believe that this is part of my problem and once the car is back in proper running order will try using the Premium grade.
Was feeling a stuttering in replacement engine so I put a bottle of Gumout injector cleaner in tank and topped off with fuel per instructions. Within 50 miles, CEL comes on. Codes are P1111, P0302 and P1314. Again from other posts, the cleaner apparently accelerated a problem that was going to happen anyway.
Have been reading some (many) other posts here and I feel confident that my problem is just a fouled plug (brand new ones were installed when engines were swapped) and a coil pack. No problem with engine RPM going over 3,000 so I don’t think clogged Cat causing back-pressure is problem at this point.
Will also replace the fuel filter since I’m not sure if it has ever been replaced. Bought car used. Will also check for vacuum leaks.
Other posts talk about replacing the O-gasket rings to prevent oil leaking into spark plug/coil area. I have been smelling oil burning and just thought it was a leaky valve cover dripping onto the exhaust manifolds. Need to check to see exactly where the oil is leaking from.
This will be my first attempt at working on this engine but I consider myself a little above average when it comes to working on mechanical stuff. My other ride is a 22 year old BMW that I have removed the head twice and replaced the timing belt 4 times now in addition to mufflers, brakes and chasing down the occasional Gremlin in the electrical system. It currently has 248,000 miles on it and will likely go that much more. If I can figure out how to work on this Jaguar, I’d be glad to keep it just as long as the BMW.
Any recommendations/comments?

 

Buckman, welcome to the forums and as you have found, there is tons of information here. So, sit back, enjoy some more posts and a few more cups of joe.

As for what you will need to do what you are looking at. This is a loaded questions as the o-rings are re-useable. So, technically, since you don't have any vacuum leaks it is hard to say to just replace them. At the same time, because you are already there, putting them in is almost a no brainer. If you are that far into the motor, I would say to also do the lower gaskets just to make sure. You will want the following kits:

Buy Felpro Intake Manifold Gasket Set MS 96485 at Advance Auto Parts
Buy Felpro Plenum Gasket Set MS 96494 at Advance Auto Parts

The top link is for the bottom gaskets that go between the intake and the heads ($21 at Advance Auto Parts). The bottom link is for the gaskets that go between the two halves of the intake ($15 at Advance Auto Parts).

As for your stumbling issue, run a few tanks of premium fuel and see what the car is like then. May want to even put in a bottle of injector cleaner in the first tank. I think you will find out that the car will be much happier and give you fewer issues.

If you need to replace the valve cover gaskets, check out:
Buy Felpro Valve Cover Gasket VS 50615 R at Advance Auto Parts

This is enough to do both valve covers and it will set you back about $90. Again, these seals should not need replacing even if you pull the cover off. But, since you are getting a little bit of leakage, probably a good idea to replace stuff. On the other hand, did you recently do an oil change to the car. I find that right after an oil change (for the next week or so), I will get an oil burning smell from the car. This is due to the oil filter dripping oil on to the exhaust manifold because it is right under the threads for the oil filter.

if you need more help, let me know. I wish you were a little closer to maryland. I would tell you to come over and we would get you taken care of in no time. it isn't that bad of a job. Just make sure to not drop anything down the holes when you have the bottom half of the intake off and when you are pulling the fuel injectors out (which you don't have to, you can remove the injectors and fuel rail with the lower half of the intake), as the injectors come out, the o-rings have a tendency to roll off of the injectors and love to drop into any hole they can find.

 

Thermo, again, some excellent recommendations. Once I am finished with the job, I will provide an update.

 

Well, I must say it has taken me a while to provide this update. I still have not replaced the coil or plug for the #2 hole. What I did was buy a code reader to reset the CEL to get a clean start and make sure of the codes the darn thing was kicking out. Since the last post, I have run a bottle of the SeaFoam injector cleaner through the engine and switched to using Premium grade gas. I cleared the codes last week and still no codes. Do you think the coil/plug are still good? I would think if they were bad, it would light the CEL. It seems to be running like a race horse at this point and if I don't have to pull the engine apart, well, lets just say I have other projects that need attention. Any thoughts?

 

Buckman, based on what you are describing, the coil/plug are sounding like they are in good shape and probably do not need to be replaced. The real test I would say to do is to find a country road or other similar place that you can do a long hard acceleration. If that doesn't toss a code, then you should be golden. Push the car pretty hard (shifting at over 5,000 RPM). Get it up to over 70 mph during this acceleration test. You might even be able to do this while getting on the highway if you have a spot that has a long entrance ramp. Depends on your area.

If you get the code again, then more work should be performed.

 

Update...have been watching the CEL. Yesterday, under light/moderate load, the light flashed but did not stay on. Engine stuttered 'n sputtered. RPM was less than 3k. Pulled a P1111/System pass code. Cleared code. This morning, same thing. Pulled Liight was not on but these codes were present: P1000, P0302, P1314. Cleared codes. When this happens, if I down shift the tranny and get the RPM up, she runs like a champ. Only seems to happen at lower (less than 3k) RPM. Would think that if it were a plug/COP problem, it would occur at all RPM ranges. Should I be looking at another area? Could be clogged injector where it is not getting enough fuel at lower RPM but there is enough at higher RPM to keep the system satisfied? Thanks in advance for your input.

 

Buckman, what i would say is to run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner thru your car. See what you have then. Make sure to use a different brand cleaner than the one your normal gas statiin uses. Each brand has thier own mix and using a different brand will clean out things slightly differently.

 

Thermo,

Well, have done several things as suggested and codes are still coming back. Have run several different types of cleaner in the tank but appears to not be that My Wife, who is the primary driver of the car, has made the observation that even though we can buy premium from any gas station, when we fill-up at a Phillips 66, we seem to have less of a problem with the codes.

Kind of funny (not) but this past weekend we took the car for a long road trip. Before leaving, I changed the oil/filter and fuel filter. Car ran fine on the way to our destination (except for the blown tire from 2 nails, can you say 'new set of rubber all around') and the new battery the next day. Filled up with premium for the trip home and by the end of the trip, it was throwing codes again.

Cleared codes and filled up at the place my wife says to, and she runs better. Still stumbles between 1500-2500 RPM but get it revved up and she takes off. Same codes as before, P1111, P0302 and P1314.

I'm thinking this engine is very picky in what it likes to drink. Anything less than perfect and she throws a hissy.

Was thinking that if the fuel filter were clogged, there wouldn't be enough pressure at the injector for proper delivery. Then when the battery died, I thought there might not have been enough voltage to give the proper amount of juice for the spark.

Seems like after the battery was replaced, the MPG picked up about 3 MPG than before. Kind of weird.

I'm about to the point where I want to pull the intake to replace the COP/plug and maybe even the injector. Could these things have been damaged by low fuel pressure from a clogged filter and low voltage from a dying battery?

I think the key is that it primarily throws the codes at 15-2500 RPM and under light to moderate load. Don't hear any engine pinging but it's almost like that's what the problem is. Is there a different circuit for lower RPM than for full throttle?

Had a mechanic tell me that the problem was carbon on the valves and the heads had to be pulled.

 

Buckman, before you start pulling the heads, the fuel injectors spray on to the valves. So, by running a few bottles of fuel injector cleaner through the engine, your valves are about as clean as they are going to get without scrubbing the things. Even then, I do not think you are going to get anything more.

As for accessing cylinder 2, you are lucky in the fact that you can probably get to it by simply removing the cover off of the engine. If you are standing in front of the car, it will be the COP that is between the oil fill cap and the radiator. It is the easiest one to get to. Look at the top of the COP and see if you notice any cracks in it (normally it will cause the code to come in more often when it rains too). Then remove the plug and make sure that the plug is in good condition. May want to take a wire brush to it to clean off any carbon that may be on it. If you notice that the plug looks worn, may be time to replace the other plugs.

As for the improved mileage, that can be 2 fold. Keep in mind that the car attempts to learn how you drive and find a happy trim setting for the fuel system to get you the best mileage. Since you and your wife both drive the car, the car is unable to do this well and therefore finds something less than adequate. If only one of you drives, then you will also see a slight improvement. Along these same lines, when you put in the new battery, the computer lost all this information and more than likely the drive back, the car saw 1 person most of the time and learned how that person drives and fine tuned the car to them. Granted, having a little bit more power to the plugs didn't hurt either.

 

Fault Code:- P0302 Indicates a Power-train fault


The fault is generally due to a problem in the Ignition or Misfire area


Fault Description: Misfire detected – cylinder 2

Action of ECM:- none


After clearing the DTC, complete the Misfire monitor drive cycle
Check for a reoccurrence of fault DTC.


After clearing the DTC, complete the Misfire monitor drive cycle
Check for a reoccurrence of fault DTC.

Possible Fault:- Refer to P0300 Possible Causes


Fault Code:- P0300 Indicates a Power-train fault


The fault is generally due to a problem in the Ignition or Misfire area


Fault Description: Random misfire detected

Action of ECM:- none


After clearing the DTC, complete the Misfire monitor drive cycle
Check for a reoccurrence of fault DTC.

Possible Fault:- Cylinder compression low Worn camshaft / broken valve spring(s) Fuel delivery pressure (low / high) Fuel injector(s) restricted / leaking Fuel injector(s) continuously open Fuel contamination Fuel injector circuit fault(s) (Injector DTCs also flagged) Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault (Cylinder misfire detected DTC also flagged) Ignition coil failure




Fault Code:- P1314 Indicates a Power-train fault


The fault is generally due to a problem in the Ignition or Misfire area


Fault Description: Misfire rate catalyst damage – bank 2 NOTE: This DTC will flag only when accompanied by an individual cylinder misfire DTC: P0300 – P0306

Action of ECM:- ECM Default: – Maximum engine speed reduced


After clearing the DTC, complete the Misfire monitor drive cycle
Check for a reoccurrence of fault DTC.

Possible Fault:- Cylinder compression low Worn camshaft / broken valve spring(s) Fuel delivery pressure (low / high) Fuel injector(s) restricted / leaking Fuel injector(s) continuously open Fuel contamination Fuel injector circuit fault(s) (Injector DTCs also flagged) Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault (Cylinder misfire detected DTC also flagged) Ignition coil failure

P1111 and P1000 are normal when resetting fault codes.

 

UPDATE

Had to make a sales call and needed to fill up at a out-of-area gas station. Within a few miles, she was skipping a beat now and again. In an act of desperation, I put in a bottle of octane booster. Seems like a light improvement. Or it could be wishful thinking.

Just finished swapping COP/plugs #2 / #4. Pic is of COP#2 and plugs are 2/4 L-R. Plugs look the same so both are either good or both are bad.

Did not notice any cracks/arcing. But this is not my strong suit.

Did notice after I changed oil the next day there was a small puddle of oil next to #2. I did miss the hole and dribbled some, but not the size of the puddle I saw.

Granny is out running around in car now so we will see when she get back.

 

Buckman, the plugs are the correct color, I just question the gap on the plugs. The one on the right appears to be much larger than the one on the left. It may be just the angle at which everything is at. Too large of a gap can lead to what you are seeing.

 

UPDATE

Well, it looks like that was the problem. CEL light flashed but did not stay on. Since I was on road, had AutoZone pull codes. There was a ghost code for #4 this time. Bought COP. Rplaced that and the 3 front plugs and air filter. GOSH, what a difference. Now I remember why we feel in love with the car. She's a screaming demon again. To everyone that replied, THANK-YOU!!!!

 

Well, that task has been completed. Want to thank all that replied. It was all good stuff to know and consider. Now, the next item on list is changing the fluid in the transaxle. Any opinions on the DIY method or just take it to a local shop (not the dealer) to have this done?