I got in my car today and I tried to start my car and it wouldn't crank, it just made clicking noises. Then it showed security failure on the display and the red security light was flashing.

I tried reprogramming the key fob and the buttons would work correctly but after I try to start the car the key fob programming is deleted and none of the buttons work again. This happens each time I try to start the car.

Anyone have any recommendations on a fix for this? My battery is brand new, and the grounding cable is secure at the frame. My mechanic said he can bypass the security but it will cost me, and before I shell out the cash for that and the 20 mile tow I'd like to see if there is a much simpler fix to this. Thanks.

 

Hi roblox84.
I have heard that disconnecting the battery and leaving it disconnected for a while usually rectifies these electronic type of situations.....worth a try. And, apparently, the battery cables on X Types deteriorate from the inside, so all may look well, clean and tight, but in reality the battery cables are shot.
Hope this helps.

Alan in sunny Malta.

 

roblox84, from the sounds of things, you have either a bad battery or a bad battery cable. The reason for the flashing security lights is that the voltage is dipping too low and this is causing the system to not get proper indications, making it think that there is some problem.

As for determining what is your problem, I would say to get the help of a second person and have them hold a multimeter across the battery terminals (have them only touch the battery post, do not touch the cable clamp). You should see 12.6 VDC. If you see something less, then the battery at a minimum needs a charging before going further. If the battery falls below 12.6 after a full charge (ie, is at 12.6 VDC 10 minutes after being taken off of the charger, but after 2 hours is down at say 12.4 VDC, bad battery)

Once the battery is at 12.6, connect the multimeter and attempt to start the car. Did the multimeter stay at 12.6 VDC, drop to say 12.0 VDC, or go to 11.0 VDC (or less)? Odds are, based on what you are saying, it will not stay at 12.6 VDC (this would indicate no signal is making it to the starter, but because you are getting clicking, I know it is). If the voltage is dropping below 11.0 VDC, this would be a sign of a bad battery and the battery needs to be replaced. This leaves the 12.0 VDC indication. Keep in mind that this is just a rough number, it may not go to this exact value. What you are going to want to do is try cranking the car for say 15 seconds and then cup your hand over each of the battery terminals. DO NOT TOUCH THEM!!!!!!! If you feel heat coming from one and not the other, the hot terminal is your bad battery cable. It is possible that the cable will be hot enough to burn you, hence why I say don't touch.

If you are still having issues, let us know and we can take things from there.

 

Just an addition, it happened to me and another member just a couple of weeks ago. When you turn ignition to "start" and get the click, do you also hear sort of a "sizzling" sound from dash area. Ours made both sounds when battery gave up the ghost. Mine tested correct, but after putting on the $15,000 test machine that takes 1 1/2 hours to charge, put a load on, etc. It showed a bad cell. Replaced & it fixed problem.

 

Mine doesn't give me any sizzling noise but I tried a brand new battery and it did the same. Would this issue also cause the keys to quit losing programming each time I try to start the car?

 

Well here's a suggestion in a forum =

jagryan85 said:13-12-13 22:32

You could try what I call a 'force wake-up call' It's not the best or ideal way of connecting up power to the car but it can stump and trick the car. In my old Audi, this was sometimes the only way to get the thing going!

First of all, put the ignition on. Make sure all electricals are turned off ie heaters/radio/screen heaters are all turned off.
Leave the ignition on then disconnect the negative cable followed by the positive cable. Wait 10 seconds then touch thecables together. You may hear or see a tiny spark but this is all the capacitorsdischarging in the circuits. Wait 10 minutes, make sure key is still in the 'on' position then reconnect the postive cable. Now i suggest you wear a glove for the next part as when you reconnect the negative cable the car will pull alot of current through to all the circuits as the key is on the 'on' position and you may get a spark from the terminal so be quick and accurate on putting the cable on thebattery post. Don't worry you won't get electrocuted!

Go and see if the security light is flashing or off. Off is good.

Ryan

 

Here's a post about the "stalk" available codes = if you don't know about this, hold in the button on turn signal stalk, turn key to position 2 & keep holding button until "test" screen shows. Then by depressing the stalk button you can cycle through car info.

Security Failed Message

 

So I tried a few of these suggestions with no luck and now in addition to security failed, I'm also getting a gearbox fault message right after. I cleaned up the ground connection on the frame and also even bypassed the stock cables by hooking up jumper cables directly to the starter and frame ground.

Edit... It seems as though the security failed and gearbox fault messages only come up when I bypass the starter to try and start the car. When I try to start the car normally I don't get any security code.

 

Had a similar issue some years back and also had the Gearbox light, Turned out to be a bad instrument cluster. Replaced the instrument cluster and car was back on the road.

 

Did you replace the instrument cluster yourself?

 

No, Had a technician fit it in and reprogram it for me.

 

Ok thanks. I figured there was more to it than just pulling the old one and popping in a new cluster.