I am having trouble finding "JB130" 22 Green connection plug. It says its adjacent to the driver side fuse box but I don't see a single connector with more than 18 pins.
I look at the 2004 Electrical Diagram and there isnt a 22 connection plug in that area.

Trying to follow this https://www.justanswer.com/jaguar/3f...3-0l-when.html

 

Well, I hooked it all back up and I am reading 60 Ohms everywhere I should be.

Now I am totally lost. Where do i go from here?

 

Hi Dolzonek,
I would think, that it's the corrosion that you have on your ABS module connector, is a good place to start with solving these problems.
Clean those, and then measure ohms again. Also, check continuity on ABS module pins 24 and 40.

JB130 is the connector above engine compartment fuse box. Note that CAN wires from ABS module are not on the detachable side on the harness connector that has the bolt on it.. They are wired directly on the wheel side of the connector, and go to TCM connector from there. That's why you have no change on ohms when disconnecting it.
Take a moment to download Electrical diagrams PDF, from the Stickies > How To -section.

Since you are getting DTC's U2516 and U2520 with U1900, that point to CAN network problems between components in the network, I'd look at that ABS module first. Only because it's the only one having visible problems / corrosion..
According to jagrepair.com (S-Type fault codes, could not find X-Type, but they are similar):
U2516 is 'CAN / TCM message missing' and 'Multiple CAN modules with CAN DTC's flagged' on Adaptive Speed control or Instrumentation systems
U2520 is 'CAN IC module missing'
Because you have SDD, there should be pinpoint test guidance, similar to JTIS, on how to diagnose those (I dont have SDD and I'm not familiar with it).
They can be found on electrical diagrams pdf, too.

 

Ok bear with me guys I am learning.

I gave wrong information. When I turn the car on I lose my 60 ohms. I unplugged everything and found when the TCM is unplugged I get 140-160 ohms.

JLR SDD says it can read the TCM fine. The dash does say GEARBOX Fault. I was able to reconfigure the TCM in SDD


I flashed and reset my error codes. Something interested popped up during reconfigure of the TCM.
This picture


Which is P1797 - Open circuit, ECM to TCM

So, I have a followed the wires from the TCM connector to the big *** rubber plug into the engine compartment. I can't get that rubber **** off. Does the TCM wire go directly to the JB130 Junction Box and then to the ECM? Because it goes right behind the engine and I can't get to that ****... What do I do

There is another bundle of wires that go directly to the ABS, and then connect back to the large bundle right before it enters the cabin of the car with all the other wires

The broken wire from the picture has voltage

I have unwrapped most of the wires, except the hard to reach areas. I dont see any problems. They got 20 year old tape goop on them...
https://denez.com/wp-content/uploads...001-2009-A.pdf

This is the Manual I am using

Also none of the links work anymore

 

Dolzonek, to prove the wiring in question good or bad, you need to do 2 resistance measurements with a multimeter. The first is going to be to unplug both ends of the cable (at the ECM and at the TCM), locate both wires in question. Now, you can either measure each wire independently or you can install a short jumper wire between the two wires at one end. Assuming you installed the jumper wire between the two wires at one end, you are going to simply do a resistance check between the two wires at the plug without the jumper. You should see something very low resistance (under 5 ohms). If you are seeing over 1,000 ohms, then this is definitely a broken wire (verify that your jumper is installed good). If the wire is bad, easiest thing to do is to simply run new wire in parallel with the old cable and then splice the wiring in at some point near the plug. Assuming that the resistance was good from one end of the wire to the other, the next check is to simply measure from the wire to chassis ground. If you get a low resistance, this is bad. Your signal is getting sent to ground, hence no communication. Again, splice in a new wire to replace what is bad. If you are getting over say 2,000 (2K) ohms, then you should be good. obviously, you want up in the megaohms (millions of ohms) on this check, but the computers will handle things if it is only in the K's.

 

Well, this is where I get lost. I can't see where the wires go directly into the TCM connector and I don't understand this picture. I had to cut the plastic off the ECM connector, so I can see those

Do you have a picture of the pin layout>?
To me it looks like the can wires are Green 52 Yellow 53, Green 3 Yellow 27

 

This is the TCM plug wires. left line goes towards the fuse box the right line goes towards the engine

This is where the CAN comes out from the cabin. It goes directly to the ABS Module and splits into 1 wire

This is the only CAN line to the ECM

they split into 1 wire here at the ABS Module

 

I installed new CAN lines from TCM to right before ABS splice. and then from ABS splice to junction BOX 130. Same problem

I looked further into the TCM i see this slight corrosion. Could this be whats causing my CAN low PIN 13 to read 0.0 V and 1.5V with ignition on?

 

Alright, I will take a stab at it here, though I am not an electrical diagnostic wizard or anything. So, to start, I noticed that next to the DTCs in SDD, you have the broken chain link icon instead of the solid chain link icon. Someone who may know better, please correct me if I am wrong, but I looked this up just yesterday for a problem on my son't X-Type, In Jaguar SDD, the broken chain link icon next to a DTC means “historic” or “previous” fault — basically a code that was stored because the fault happened at some point in the past, but it’s not currently active. If that is the case, you may be chasing a ghost and this could have come from something being unplugged, or loose, then replugged. You said that you are getting 60 Ohms resistance on the CAN, so that would mean the physical layer is OK. To me, this would mean that this validates there are nor broken wires or corrosion causing the issues, right? If there were either of these, your resistance would be way off. It is interesting that the immobilizer was engaged and that popping it back on didn't solve your problem. Are you able to clear those codes? Maybe I missed it and you said you did that, not sure.

If you measure ~60 Ω across CAN-H and CAN-L (with the car powered off), that only tells you:
1. Both termination resistors are present and connected to the bus.
2. The twisted pair wiring is continuous from one end of the bus to the other.

It does not guarantee:
1. That the signal quality is good under power (a short to power/ground, noise, or poor shielding could still mess it up).
2. That all modules are talking properly (a module could still have a failed transceiver or firmware issue).
3. That the timing/bit rate matches across all devices.

I just can't help but feeling like the problem isn't as complicated as wiring here now that you said you are getting 60 Ohms. Maybe take a step back and ignore the historic codes for the moment and work on what else may cause your initial problem. Matter of fact, I'd have to look again, but I think there is a pinpoint test in the manual you are using the specifically guides you through troubleshooting that issue.

 

OK, didn't find a pinpoint test, but I think it is the symptom chart at the bottom of page 1069 that I am thinking of. Mentions nothing really about CAN. So, this, combined with the historic fault indicator would tell me specifically that I may be on a chase after a red herring and should take a step back. Sort of like when you go to the doctor with a cough. He doesn't immediately say, oh you have tuberculosis. While that is a possibility, I guess, it is the rarer circumstance, so he rules other, more common things out first. I'd start with these things it specifically says first.

 

when I turn the ignition on i get OPEN LINE. When I remove the TCM i get 110 - 160 ohms

Can I bypass junction box jb130 and just go straight to my CAN lines from the ECM Connector?

I also learned how to read the diagram of the TCM connector better and I found the CAN lines. 12 and 33 work fine, they go to the IC fuse box. 13 and 34 i changed at the end of the connector and they still same problem, lose ohms when ignition on

 

This is not how my car is wired. My CAN lines start the IC go to, J Gate, TCM, JB130 JB, ECM. the ABS and Climate Control module spliced.

 

The guy in the video said the same thing about the original diagram he had. Is this the same situation? Towards the end, he draws on a board how it is actually setup.

 

There atleast 2 CAN line in the big bundle of wires behind the IC that I don't know what they go to. They even have some splices. Very hard to reach and some wires are holding other wires in the way

Anyway I started testing the IC and im reading 28 ohms on the can line pins 17 and 18. I measured the jgate unplugged and im reading 0,00 on pins 9 and 10. SO maybe now its the wiring behind here.

 

The fig.20.1 on the Jaguar X-Type 2002 Electrical guide has the correct diagram of CAN network wiring for your car.
Number of components on the network depends on the setup of the car,

If that broken chain -icon on the SDD means that DTC in flagged but not pending, I agree with farm-jag.
Pinpoint tests for CAN network can be found here, starting on page 307 or 373 depending of your VIN: http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...Electrical.pdf