Does the '03 S-type have similar rust problems as the '03 X-type Jags ?

 

Yuo should ask this question at S Type Owners . I could move your post into a new thread but it's better if you search S Type Forums

 

I don't think so, I've never heard of seen any S types with this problem. I posted pics of mine prior to the repair and after the repair. BJM did you get my response to the last post? See my profile for the photo album.

 

As I wrote I have owned many, many cars over the past 50 years and none of them every had rust on them, except one a 72 VW ragtop I bought for restoration, and it needed two rear fenders. Other then that the cars I drove were always a few years old. The oldest driver I bought was a 10 year old Porsche Carrera, no rust. I bought my X last year a 2003. No rust at all. I posted last year I took it to a friend who owns a body shop and I have known for years and he went over the car, as far as using and endoscope to look inside the fenders at the drain hole areas. no rust. He said there is a coating in the areas he saw with the endoscope, whether it is rust preventer or not he was not sure. Also, I can see a car manufacturing without some kind of rust protection in this era. I still feel taking proper take of a car, wash, polish, and power spray rust prone area goes a long way in keep a car rust free. Also touching up scratches, etc. I also installed a counteract rust preventer. It sends a negative EMF through the cars body which in theory should stop rust, as cars as most other mechanical's are positive charged. As I also wrote it works 24/7 and does have an auto shut off feature if the battery goes below 12V. As I wrote I had a 79 Benz SLC with a counteract and never had a rust problem all the years I owned this car. I live in the snow and salt belt by the way. I personally would not spent more money on rust repairs or any repair then the cars is worth, no matter how much you like it. Makes no sense as there will never be a rate of return and I have been told, and don't know if this statement is true or not. If a really rusted car is not repaired correctly the rust will just come back. So IMO that would mean a complete tear down of the car. These are not collectors cars and probably will never be. So get a new one. U will way ahead of the financial curve.

Back in the old days, Vermonter's use to spray the bottom and rocker panels of their cars and trucks with motor oil to stop rust in the horrid winters they get up there. I understand the State cracked down on this in the 50's, but it is a idea and very old school, Yes!

 

Hi LAD,

Yes, I did receive your last post. Thanks. Still learning my way around the forum so it took a little time. Posted a reply as well. Your info has been a great help to me as I try to get to grips with an understanding of my rust problem.

Thanks

Bryan (BJM)

 

Yes, this site is not very user friendly and very confusing. There's a serious delay in getting daily updates, and when you do reply, unless you click on the quote, you can end up on any page within the thread. I find myself numberous time wasting time to find the comment within the thread after I've been routed from my alert. In addition, If I have a message in my profile box, I respond to it (like i did for you BJM, and unless you go into my mailbox to view the answer, you don't know I've responded. I would've though if I was replying to you, it'd route it to YOUR mailbox to check the response. This as well as the response sits in MY mailbox for all to see as opposed to just the person to whom sent the question. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, so if any of you veterans can help, chime in.

 

Hmm - odd LAD. I find this site to be easy to use and a pretty standard format that is used for all kinds of forums.

If you send a PM to someone, then all they have to look at is the upper right hand corner of the screen, right below where it says "Welcome" with your user name next to it. It says Private Messages and then has Unread and Read.

If you are having other problems, I highly suggest you contact the Admin Jim or one of the Moderators - they can help and are very quick to react and help improve your experience on the forum.

 

Generally this site is very, very easy to use, the only thing is getting an answer back usually takes 24 hours after posting. But our members are all over the world, so I really don't have a problem with this. I rate this site AAAAA+

Also, I am not a computer person, I do a few sites, email and google, other than that, what is HTTP mean? Get my drift?

 

I know this may tire some people but I wanted to share what I saw recently.
While shopping around I happened to look at several 03 X-Types. All of them(3 samples) had rust/bubbling around the base of A-pillar area. Some worse than others.

The 03's are out of corrosion warranty but seriously this is a wide spread issue. Has anyone reported to government agency such as the NHTSA?

 

Hi Tony;
Yes, it is reported on NHTSA but nothing was ever done nor addressed. I didn't persue it because Jaguar had settled by that time. It's a serious issue and there should've been a recall. But for me, that's water under the bridge. $6800 later, they paid since I wouldn't give up. And I caught it in the beginning, can't even imagine what those '03's look like now unattended. Good Luck !!!
p.s. check out my pics on my profile page.

 

So has anyone established after what production date the rust issue should have been resolved? I can't deal with rust on my car, it drives me crazy.

 

So today I pulled off the wheel well covers to check and see if this is happening to my car. And what I saw scared the living lord out of me. All the rust around the drain, and parts where it's rusted through. I didn't even look at the sills or the a frame, I know they're rusted through though because my front jacking point is all rusted out and bent where someone has tried to jack it up… ugg.

Okay, so I was able to find the sills on ebay,jaguar x type sill repair panels and kit 1.2mm steel, holes as per the originals | eBay, so I'll get those and change those out. Now, what about the frame where it's all rusted through, does anyone know where I can get the lower sections of that??

Thanks for all your help guys,

Jim

 

Hi Jim,

Sorry for your trouble. Glad that replacement sill kits are available even if they have to be ordered from England. The eBay listing says "MOT" which is the UK agency that inspects vehicles for safety. Clearly, they see this as an issue since I've heard that X-Types there are routinely rejected for this rust.

I'm not aware of replacement panels for the lower A-frame. I suppose you could cut unrusted sections from a later model assuming the shape is the same. But if you're comfortable replacing sills then fabricating the base of the frame shouldn't be hard for you.

My sills weren't rusted through and I think I was able to stop the rust by applying POR-15 and Waxoyl through access holes that I drilled under the polished kick plates. My jacking points have remained solid. The base of the A-frame was a different story. I cut out the rusted part, made up patch panels, welded, skim-coated with filler, primed and painted using a factory-match spray paint I found on eBay (spraycansunlimited.net). I posted photos earlier in this thread to show what I did back in March 2010 and it seems to have remained solid since - at least as far as I can see.

Others have written that the rust is caused by faulty sunroof drain hoses, but I disagree. The sills are constructed from two layers, an inner (can't see it) and an outer (which is what you see when the plastic rocker panels are removed). The rust starts inside the inner sill and spreads to the outer. I think that rust proofing failed to cover the inner sill and inner A-Frame completely and since the car sits lower in the front, water collects in that area. The rust is always heaviest at the front and lessens as you move rearward and seems to indicate that water sloshes around the lowest seam in the panels.

Good luck with your repair.

Steve

 

By A-frame I mean the A-pillar, the vertical section that runs beneath the windshield to the botton of the car and is what the door hinges are attached to...

 

Thanks Steve,
I was rejected by the State of Utah because they told me that if I was to get into a head on accident, or side accident that everyone in the car would die… ugh. So, my car isn't registered. But, that's okay because the transmission just went out too, I guess I get to do two jobs, yeah!!! Go James!! I love this car and I'll never, ever, ever get rid of it, but it's really starting to **** me off!

 

Ok - I'm concerned - I just got my '03 X type 2.5 this past summer - found the jack point weak - went further to find rust - how did you guys repair the problem with the rust behind the plastic panel? Is it worth fixing or am I doomed? If you fixed it yourself - how? If you paid to get it done... how much?

 

Hi Meouch,


Sorry to hear it. I DIY-repaired mine in 2010. The rust had only perforated the inner and outer stamped metal sills at the base of the A-pillar just behind the front fender and above the plastic rocker cover. I won't go into detail again here but look earlier in this thread for several of my posts and photos. My non-structural repair seems to have held up but I was lucky to have caught the issue when I did and I used a combination of rust converting paints and products (POR-50, Duro Extend, Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, WaxOyl) to hopefully stop it from migrating rearward. The rust occurs primarily at the front since it sits lower than the rear.


The problem is not from sunroof or windshield drains (the windshield drains through a hose that exits inside the front fender splash shield). Instead it's caused by the internal stamping not being adequately treated. If the car was dipped during manufacturing somehow the solution never reached the inner cavity. The rust starts there and eventually perforates the inner and then, outer sills. Since it's covered by the plastic rocker panel you wouldn't notice it until it became serious.


From time to time I've seen eBay UK ads for replacement outer sills (the stamped metal you see when you pull off the plastic cover). A regular production body shop probably wouldn't be interested in this work but a restoration shop with experience in chassis rebuilding would. Check around your area. I wouldn't be able to guess at the cost.


Good luck,


Steve