Question about the fuel pump (2.1 v6 petrol). Just bought this 2006 sedanwith running problems. Was idling ok but no power and plenty of vacuum leaks. Pulled intake and lower manifolds, replaced all seals, cleaned and tested injectors, cleaned and tested map & maf sensors, refitted everything but still have bad hesitation and can’t get over 2000rpm. Checked fuel pressure at the schroeder valve - only 28psi! Pulled fuel pump (what a pita!) and replaced with aftermarket pump (not entire assembly), bled system - no change!? I Read that the 2.1 uses a different fuel delivery system to the 2.5 & 3L? Is the fuel pressure regulator in the pump assembly serviceable? Any suggestions?

 

The fuel pump system in the 2.1 V6 petrol is a simple switched pump with no electronic pressure/flow control unlike its 2.5 and 3.0 engine counterparts.
It simply has a factory set pressure regulator built within the pump assembly to provide a constant pressure.
As to what that is, I have never measured it on mine but "Peter of Australia" might have done that on his. He might be able to chime in on that question.

If you are being limited to 2000 RPM, then there must be a more likely reason for that, as the 2.1 doesn't have a fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail either, so the ECM would have little idea that what fuel pressure is there.
Your engine is probably running in limp home mode, so you probably have a check engine light and a code or three to share with us if you plug a code reader in.

 

Thanks for the info Mark, Only getting p1000 code and no CEL but cant rev without 'tickling' the throttle, can coax it up to about 3500rpm for a second or two but can't maintain that. Still idles ok, just chuffing a little at the intake. I've done a little research in the workshop manual and confirmed that the 2.1 should be a constant 4.5Bar. Mine is 1.7Bar, had the pump out and double checked everything. Checked the voltage at the connection and get only 11.2vdc (battery is 12.5 with engine off).
Double checked the camshaft sensors and crank sensor, tested the VVT actuators and no faults. Mystery to me, I even disconnected the fuel pump plug and ran an independent 12v source whilst running, no change to fuel pressure, still on 1.7bar. Not even sure if fuel pressure would be causing this issue, anyone care to share some knowledge? I'm a little lost

 

I'll see if I can put a pressure gauge on my 2.1 tomorrow to see what it is telling me.
I only have a tyre gauge that hopefully will give me an indication.....we'll see.

If yours turns out to be low, then it can only be the integrated regulator, or a clogged fuel filter (just forward of the right rear wheel arch).

 

OK, put a basic pressure gauge on and got a measurement of around 48 PSI on mine.
That is about 3.3 BAR.
So your pump assembly seems to have a low pressure output.

 

Don't forget to check the fuel filter.

 

Cheers Mark, i'll try and find a better pump. Thnx

 

Hey Mark,
I think I found the issue with this low fuel pressure problem. It would appear that the previous owner decided to fit a 'close enough' fuel pump assembly (GOSS GE241), It's identical but, doesn't have a pressure regulator built in like the Jag 2.1 version.
Effectively it's running without any regulator and just cycling fuel via the 'tee' fitting next to the fuel filter! Tested by squeezing the return line at the tank and sure enough pressure jumped up to 50psi and, finally have an engine that runs properly. Sort of.
Such a simple thing, took a while to notice the difference in the pumps.

 

So, fuel problem solved!
Now to resolve a noise problem. Firstly, Loud 'chuffing' from intake filter at idle, disconnecting ICV resolves noise but drops to low idle speed. not stalling, but close. Secondly and more concerning, a loud 'rattle/knocking' coming from top of engine on acceleration. Noise is resolved by disconnecting CVT connection on #1 (RH) valve cover!!
Any thoughts??
BTW. No engine codes or CEL showing (Except when ICV or #1 CVT unplugged)
I have recorded all this but am having trouble attaching video, think file is too large (291Mb)

 

Do you have a lot of "blow by" coming from the PCV tube back into the intake manifold?
Could that be the chuffing sound you are hearing coming back through the throttle body?
The 2.1 does have the idle speed control valve that you are disconnecting, I wonder if that is rapidly oscillating/pulsing somehow.

No idea on the VVT noise but do a search as the 2.5 and 3.0 engines use the same setup as the 2.1 I believe.
Likely that you either you have an oil pressure issue, tensioner issue or a VVT valve assembly on the blink.

 

Thanks Mark, yeah, the idle control valve does seem to be the issue although it bench tests ok (and doesn't throw any codes while running - only the chuffing sound) it definitely drops idle speed about 300rpm when unplugged. I can live with it disconnected in a pinch.
I will search the 2.5 & 3.0 versions, I was just keeping the info search on the 2.1lt. Not much info about the vvt system so far but will keep searching. I am driving with both disconnected and it seems fine, need more info about the vvt or cvt or whatever jag/ford call it. I believe the heads (and possibly the cvt system are not ford) are not the same as the ford duratec version?
Need to do more research I guess.

 

The Duratec engines were chosen and then substantially re-engineered by Jaguar for all three size variants to increase torque and deliver it sooner than their Ford counterparts, yet alone that the 2.5 and 3.0 versions were AWD, a feature not shared by the cars bearing the Blue Oval.
That is why Jaguar owners vehemently oppose the common misconception that an X-Type is simply a Mondeo in disguise. I believe less than 20% of Mondeo parts actually found their way into the X-Types.
So heads, intake manifolds, valve gear are specifically for Jaguar I believe. That is before you get to the totally redesigned suspension etc.

I assume you have cleaned the throttle body and throttle plate to eliminate false constrictions due to build ups?
You've cleaned your MAF and MAP sensors too I expect to ensure no contaminants are skewing your sensor feed backs to the ECM.
Vacuum leaks are a frustration with these engines, with numerous vacuum lines that have o-ring seals into vacuum receptors in the manifold, brittle plastic lines and T connectors to the brake booster and the vacuum pump. The 2.1 did have a vacuum pump to ensure the brake servo had sufficient vacuum available (later a TSB was released permitting this to be disconnected in the event of a pump failure).
Then you get to the worn upper and lower intake manifold o-rings which can allow annoying leaks that screw around with your ECM fuel management, along with the IMT valve O rings.

I recall reading a recent thread or comment on an existing thread of a member that was chasing a VVT mechanism issue in his 2.5 or 3.0. That post was probably within the last 4-6 weeks but I just can't recall the details of the top of my head but it could be worth having a search for that thread.

 

Thanks Mark, sure has been an informative few days researching the vvt system, it's practically same as the mazda6 and some other vehicles. It appears the vvt solenoid valve is usually the culprit but not in my case. The vvt unit on front of the intake cams rotate the cams 30degrees advanced when oil pressure is applied via solenoid valve (around 5000rpm). When pressure is removed the cams will return to 0degrees. A sticky or faulty vvt unit seems to be the noise. Would be nice if it could be removed/replaced without having to pull engine or open front timing cover.
Yes all the items you listed are ticked off my work list. Not much, short of timing gear & lower engine remain unchecked.
I am from the BMW e36/46/39 world, this platform is all new to me. Having fun learning it though.
Cheers - Dave