2002 Upper Rad Hose Replacement
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From: Philadelphia, PA USA
2002 Upper Rad Hose Replacement
A few connections around the thermostat housing in my wife's car have been seeping for a bit and the overflow tank just recently started to leak. The overflow tank is a 5 min job but I decided to get the upper hose assembly swapped out at the same time. I came across a couple issues with the hose assembly install and just wanted to give people a heads up for doing this in the future.
The upper hose assembly (C2S43430) comes 2 upper hoses, an upper tube, thermostat housing with seal to the engine and thermostat. In my case the seal to the engine, thermostat to housing seal and thermostat to oil cooler hose connections were seeping. Jag only sells the thermostat to oil cooler hose/hard line/hose assembly (C2S30225) for ~$150 and URO sells just the rubber hoses + clamps for ~$50. I don't really trust URO and didn't want to spend $150 for 6" of hose and an aluminum tube that doesn't need replacing. When the upper hose assembly arrived I measured the thermostat flange, looked up hoses with the same ID (1.42ish") on Gates' website and found a simple EPDM hose I could cut to fit, P/N 22024. It's $12, 2 feet long and works perfectly.
The process is pretty simple to replace the upper hose assembly with a couple of exceptions. Drain the radiator, remove the airbox, battery, battery box and hood bracket that holds the air box snorkels. That gives you a clear shot at everything. Removing the driver's side upper hose section from the assembly first will help when snaking it out. The same is true going in.
The first problem I ran into was the 2 thermostat housing studs from the engine point the housing right into the driver's side fan. I couldn't remove the housing without taking out the top stud. After that, it slides out easy. The other issue I ran into was the bracket that sandwiches the thermostat housing to the engine interfered with raised sections on the new housing. I removed some material from the bracket with a mini belt sander to clearance it. I honestly removed a little more than I needed but it works. I'm not sure if this is an '02 MY thing or what. I've read a post or two where others ran into similar but there were no pictures.
Here's the modified bracket, modded bracket on the old housing, and modded bracket on the new housing:
On re-assembly, I connected everything but the hose to the upper radiator. I clocked it up so I could fill from there first while pumping all accessible hoses. Once everything was buttoned up I pumped the hoses with the car running, added fluid as required, made sure to run the engine until the thermostat opened up and checked for heat. I know there's a procedure to bleed the system properly but this method has worked for me in the past.
Before/after:
The upper hose assembly (C2S43430) comes 2 upper hoses, an upper tube, thermostat housing with seal to the engine and thermostat. In my case the seal to the engine, thermostat to housing seal and thermostat to oil cooler hose connections were seeping. Jag only sells the thermostat to oil cooler hose/hard line/hose assembly (C2S30225) for ~$150 and URO sells just the rubber hoses + clamps for ~$50. I don't really trust URO and didn't want to spend $150 for 6" of hose and an aluminum tube that doesn't need replacing. When the upper hose assembly arrived I measured the thermostat flange, looked up hoses with the same ID (1.42ish") on Gates' website and found a simple EPDM hose I could cut to fit, P/N 22024. It's $12, 2 feet long and works perfectly.
The process is pretty simple to replace the upper hose assembly with a couple of exceptions. Drain the radiator, remove the airbox, battery, battery box and hood bracket that holds the air box snorkels. That gives you a clear shot at everything. Removing the driver's side upper hose section from the assembly first will help when snaking it out. The same is true going in.
The first problem I ran into was the 2 thermostat housing studs from the engine point the housing right into the driver's side fan. I couldn't remove the housing without taking out the top stud. After that, it slides out easy. The other issue I ran into was the bracket that sandwiches the thermostat housing to the engine interfered with raised sections on the new housing. I removed some material from the bracket with a mini belt sander to clearance it. I honestly removed a little more than I needed but it works. I'm not sure if this is an '02 MY thing or what. I've read a post or two where others ran into similar but there were no pictures.
Here's the modified bracket, modded bracket on the old housing, and modded bracket on the new housing:
On re-assembly, I connected everything but the hose to the upper radiator. I clocked it up so I could fill from there first while pumping all accessible hoses. Once everything was buttoned up I pumped the hoses with the car running, added fluid as required, made sure to run the engine until the thermostat opened up and checked for heat. I know there's a procedure to bleed the system properly but this method has worked for me in the past.
Before/after:
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