So my car drives perfectly fine. There's no issues with anything to my knowledge besides the fact that my low oil pressure light comes on when idling. When I accelerate, the light goes away and still drives smooth as usual. Can someone tell me why that light is coming on? Is it something that's going to cost me a small fortune?

 

4Tay, first off, what oil are you running (ie, 5W20, 0W60, dyno oil, full synthetic)? If you are runnning 5W-30 dyno, semi-synthetic, or full synthetic oil, then you should not be having the low oil light.

Based on the age of the car and what i know from other members, you are looking at most likely a bad bearing on the bottom end of the motor that is allowing too much flow. This would then potentially short the other parts of the engine of oil.

I hate to be the bringer of bad news, but it is that or your oil pump is starting to go. But, you would be one of the first to have an oil pump go.

 

I'm running the SAE 5W-30 and based off of what you're saying, how much would repairs cost?

 

Probably wishful thinking on my part, but for minimal effort and a $10-15 part you could replace the oil pressure sensor to confirm the real problem is low oil pressure, and not a failing oil pressure sensor.

The workshop manual specifies maximum oil pressures of 1.2 Bar / 17 psi at idle and 2.0 Bar / 29 psi at 2000 rpm. I was looking for the minimum oil pressure and find it odd this is not specified as well.

 

Experience has taught me an uncomfortable truth if your problem is not the pressure sensor. RARELY (I'll repeat, RARELY) is truly low oil pressure ever been the pump, it's the engine. I know no one ever wants to hear that, it's just the fact.

 

I've also heard that Mobil 1, 5W-40 TDT Turbo Diesel Truck, which is a very robust oil, with a high TBN. (total base number) (means it combats acids very well) This oil is excellent for extended drain intervals on automotive engines due to the high TBN, can help with worn engines that have low pressure at idle. I've personally never had to nor have used it (knock wood).

 

 

Hello forum, This thread doesn't sound good. My oil light (just beneath the temperature gauge) just started flashing. Checked the oil and car runs fine. Is this the end? Thanks gents!

 

Jaq4, change the oil pressure switch to make sure it is not that. IT is possible. But, if you still get the light after that, then I would be attempting to put a gauge on the system and verify the pressure. If you are down in the single digits, not looking good. Check to make sure you are running the correct grade oil.

 

I'd be leaning sensor personally, seems super common on the S-Type (and X-Type if the FB groups are anything to go by). Mine has had it on for at least the past 30k miles. AFAIK to replace the sensor on a 2.5 or 3.0 AWD X-Type, you have to remove the AC lines and compressor to get to it and it's really not a fun job, which is why I haven't replaced mine yet.

 

Try a higher viscosity oil.

 

Sone, a high viscosity oil in the X-TYpe is not a good idea. WIth the variable valve timing and whatnot, Jaguar uses a system that has some pretty small parts and the higher viscosity oil and lead to issues. Besides, if it is truely a mechanical issue, this is just masking the issue and bides you a little more time.

 

Thank you Thermo and BuckSpring.

Question 1: Assuming that this issue MIGHT also be common and therefore either a switch, sensor, or real engine issue, would having the pressure checked 1 way to isolate the matter? Or not.

I'd rather not pour any more dollars into it than necessary, for now.

Question 2: I imagine a pressure check is a sub-hour job?

Thank you again gentlemen for sharing your experience.

Chris

 

Jag4, yes, a pressure check should be a fairly quick job. I would think that it should be as easy as pulling the oil pressure sender, add in a fitting to get a second opening, attach a pressure gauge to the new opening and then screw the sensor into the adapter. Granted, if you have gone this far, might as well have a sender ready to put in.

 

That's kind of the problem, at least from the research I did when I was going to do mine. The sensor on the X-Type (from what I've been able to find) is impossible to remove without removing the AC lines and compressor. So you can't do a pressure test or replace the sensor without doing that, so it's a PITA

 

https://www.justanswer.com/jaguar/59...03-x-type.html

 

Thank you, Dell. I went to justanswers.com and it seems I am forced to pay a consultation fee. I'm fine with that but does that sound right? (I'm in IT and see a lot of online scams so would like some feedback if possible.)

 

Following up...

Pulled some codes: P0300-5 and P1313. Could all these be pointing to a bad catalyst or worse?

Light was fickering yesterday but is no longer on at all.

Thank you for experience.

Chris

 

Those are misfire codes (specifically random misfire, and bank 1 catalyst damaging misfire if I'm not mistaken), is the car noticeably misfiring or does it seem to run okay? If it runs okay, try revving it with the engine cold and seeing if it stumbles/misfires.

 

Hi BuckleSpring - In the morning, when cold for a minute runs a little rough, but if I give it gas it's fine, runs fine without issue for the rest of the day, restarts without roughness. The battery was run down last week and needed a jump - so I chocked up the initial roughness to that. Battery seems fine now after driving it on a couple 25-mile runs. Roughness when starting is still there but no after a minute or less.