Ran the codes on a Snap On Scanner. Shows the right rear passenger sensor and front drivers side sensor were bad. Replaced both with new Bosch sensors, still shows the rear passenger side sensor is bad after the codes were cleared. The front sensor is working fine. You can see the rt rear is flat a flat line on the scanner while the other three are active on the graph. I'm thinking the ABS module may be bad? I guess it could be the harness that runs through the chassis to the rear seat? I sometimes get a brake light and the car also will go into limp mode for a brief time. Cleaned the contacts no corrosion and pins look fine. The engine issue seems to be lean on bank 1 and lean on bank 2. Big Fun!

If I need a new module are they available?

 

This is a link to a current thread, where someone seems to have a similar problem - I replied to that thread and I would reply the same to your thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-codes-276333/

 

I saw that and thank you for the link Peter.

It may be a wiring issue, it's down to that or a ABS module. There is no corrosion in any of the connectors and I used dialectic grease as well. I guess I should find a wiring diagram from the ABS module to the passenger rear ABS speed sensor.If it's a bad wire it's between the rear seat and module. I also found out dealers are starting to turn away from cars that are 15 years and older here in the states, even independent shops.

 

Are you sure you found all connectors along the way to the back sensor?
In my case - as I wrote in my thread - the issue was one of the many pins of the huge blue ABS connector. There was no corrosion to be seen. For reasons unknown one pin decided to give only intermittent contact.

I think it is rather difficult to remove the ABS module.
Should it really be the ABS module (and should you be able to remove it ) have a look at the solder-points of the ABS module, especially the power supply solder points. While I have not heard this about the X-Type ABS module, I think it is quite often that the power supply solder points of the PCB of the ABS module of the X308 (XJ8) have cracks and cause intermittent contacts.

 

Peter,
I only know there is no corrosion in the main ABS connector and the connector under the rear seat that goes to the speed sensor. I don't know if there is a connector in between. I have replaced the rear sensor with a new Bosch unit but as we know that didn't work. The issue must be between the sensor and the ABS module or the module itself. I am wondering if that also somehow ties into the engine light?

A while back I thought I saw a repair manual for the X-Type posted here. I will try and find it.

 

There are various repair manuals for the X-Type - different variations for the model-year and then there is the difference, if you are looking for the workshop manual or the electrical manual.

I found the following circuit diagram in the electrical manuals for X-Type from 2003:


What I can see here:
I followed the right front speed sensor wiring on the car to find my issue, and I see here confirmed that that front sensor has one connector directly on the sensor, and then there is the big ABS connector (shown here on the left) and then you can see on the diagram that there is one more connector somewhere in-between: And since I traced the wiring back then, I know that this connector would be the one hidden underneath the wheel arch liner.

While I have not traced the wring of the rear speed sensors yet, looking at the diagram tells me: Apart from the big ABS connector there should also be a connector directly on the rear sensors. But on top of that there should be TWO! more connectors! Yes, I know there is one under the rear seat, which you found. But I do not know, where the other one is, but apparently there is another connector for each rear sensor somewhere - and finding them would be probably the next thing you should focus on to determine, if the bad connector is there.

Other than that I have given the pin-info in my link, which pin of the ABS connector goes to which sensor. Have you already done the obvious of using a multimeter to check for continuity between each of the relevant 8 ABS connector pins and their other ends on the speed sensors?

And I'd like to reiterate: While it is not impossible that the ABS module is buggered, it is the least likely scenario...

 

I threw a code to my left rear wheel. Was not sure if it was the sensor or the ABS module. What i did was make a small jumper harness and plugged the left rear sensor into the right rear harness, and vice versa. Car threw an immediate code on the other side proving the problem was the wheel sensor.

Also check for crap on your exciter ring, and a bad wheel bearing, which i am sure someone else mentioned.

ron

 

The workshop manual test procedure for left rear speed sensor is in the picture below along with the ABS connector pin out. The procedure is basically to unplug the ABS connector and the wheel speed sensor 2 pin connector in the rear wheel well. You then measure resistance from ABS pins 13 and 14 to the connector at the rear wheel. You must have 5 ohms or less for each path. That includes all intermediate connections (there is one in this circuit at the bottom of the A pillar by your left foot when you are driving, assuming US spec left hand drive). Then check resistance of pins at sensor to ground, should by near infinite unless there is a short.

The reluctor rings on these cars break but that doesn't sound like your problem since you say you get a flat line signal and not a choppy signal I would expect from a cracked reluctor ring.

 

...or is it possibly just dirt? So in line with the post above, that ring seems to be called reluctor ring...: Is it possibly that your falt line is caused by dirt in that ring, which causes the sensor not to pick up the signal? And is the sensor mounted correctly (in the correct distance)?

 

Cleared the codes with the scanner started the car and drove it again. This time the passenger rear ABS sensor was reading fine (fixed) but when I turned the wheel the drivers front showed bad and the ABS light came back on, two seconds later so did the engine light. Now the left rear sensor is also reading bad. This is the only ABS wheel sensor that hasn't been replaced I ordered a new Bosch drivers rear side sensor and I am taking Peters advice and replacing the wire from the left front sensor to the clip behind the wheel lining. I will replace those two parts and then I will either attack the pin outs as DH53 has suggested or take it to a shop. Thank you guys for your input.

 

Could be, the cars under carriage is very clean, no rust or dirt but who knows. I'll try and check that as well.

 

> ...and I am taking Peters advice and replacing the wire from the left front sensor to the clip behind the wheel lining.

This might not be necessary. I replaced my wire in the quest to find the problem and thought back then that was the issue, but in my case the issue was that pin of the big blue ABS connector. Nothing looked wrong on that pin, but after a lot of measuring I figured that for some reason - in my case - that pin caused some kind of intermittent contact, which cause the problem... But then again, maybe it is the connector behind the wheel arch liner in your case. It requires a lot of time and patience to find those ABS errors, as they are different from case to case....

 

I had already ordered the wire after I typed my comments and Peter responded. I went ahead and replaced the wire to no avail. I will say there was a lot of fine sand in the clip though which was supersizing. I dropped the car off at a race shop that works on Jaguars and British vehicles. He said "wow" when I showed him the path taken trying to fix the issue. We will see what happens. I'm guessing it's a wire as you guys suggested or the ABS module which I am starting to lean towards.

I appreciate the feedback from and ideas from Ron, DH53 and Peter. I'll let you know what they find. Hopefully they can figure it out.

 

Update:

After replacing three ABS sensors and having the ABS light appear I knew there was another issue.The ABS module.The module is no longer available, when it was it cost ($5100.00) so I sent it to Upfix for a rebuild. They confirmed the module was malfunctioning and rebuilt it and sent it back. No more ABS light. Next the smoke test revealed a valve cover leak so the upper and lower intake had to come off. When the manifolds came off there was oil in two spark plug holes, 1/4 full of oil. While the intake was off I went ahead and had the coils and plugs replaced along with resealing the valve covers. I used Bosch coils and the best plugs I could find. The car runs like new, can hardly tell the engine is running, so smooth. Next, I could hear the transmission now making a whine it didn't have earlier. Found the ATF was a little low, car had been sitting as I waited for parts maybe settled, no leaks.Topped off with Amsoil ATF transmission quiet again. Next, I replaced my brake pads with ceramic Akibono's I had purchased last year as they were about due for a change. After the ABS swap and new pads the brake pressure felt off, too hard. Checked for booster leaks none I could find and I had just replaced the brake booster line. I had a new brake booster I had ordered last year sitting on my shelf so the brake booster was replaced. I had noticed a very slight "hissing" even when the brakes were operating fine previous, but I knew something was up. I was correct, bad booster. Car runs great, no lights on the dash, no codes. I also replaced the fuel filter as it was due.
Nice to have the Jag back, missed driving it!

Upfix:
https://www.upfix.com/product/jaguar...epair-service/
$319.00 plus I opted for express service, an extra $50.00.

 

I also replaced the brake booster hose, just because. I wrap the check valve in high temp cloth it saves the valve from disintegrating due to heat.