im pretty sure the abs module is bad... im getting all kinds of weird symptoms which point to this.
if i get a used module am i able to drive around with the abs module removed?.
i have read that i can but i just wantto check.

 

iownme, maybe I am missing something here. If you are talking about simply removing only the electronics side of things, then yes, you can remove it and be fine. Just keep in mind that your vehicle will now not have ABS and in adverse situations, you will need to pump the brakes like you used to do in older cars. If you are talking about breaking into the brake lines, then I would say that this would be a bad idea for the main reason that you need something that can withstand a very high pressure (800 psi, if not higher). This isn't normally something that you find at a local hardware store without some looking and knowing specific ratings and whatnot. So, unless you are familiar with compression fittings, this would be one of those things that you will either need to drive the car as is or get your hands on one that you can borrow for a day.

 

thankyou Thermo
yes, i meant i wanted to remove just the abs module to get it rebuilt,
but today... after further investigation i now think the passenger side rear reluctor ring is the culprit.
it is "intact" but when the wheel is spun i can see the ring is distorted.. it is not sitting straight and appears to move side to side.
i tried to pry the 2 bent areas back into line but it is firmly rusted in place.
its been throwing different codes for days now, going into limp mode, shutting down the speedo and mileometer.
the first thing i did was replace the wheel sensor as i was getting a c1165 code.
i noticed that the trans and brake light would illuminate if coming to an abrupt stop.. followed by limp mode.
turning off ignition and restarting the engine fixes it for a while but it keeps happening more now.
yesterday it shut the engine down coming off an interstate exit.
so its time to get it fixed or say goodbye.
im over 200000 miles and id like to keep her going , still runs strong and fast!
im considering buying a new half shaft from ebay..$65.
does this all sound like it could be caused by the reluctor ring?.. that right rear code keeps coming back.
i read that the speedo not working when it happens is a sure sign the abs module is bad... hence my 2nd diagnosis of bad module.
also, i have to drive to NYC tomorow... if the module IS bad, would removing it for this journey stop the limp mode and dash lights coming on?.
if its the reluctor ring... would disconnecting the right rear sensor stop limp mode etc etc

 

i took a video and upoaded it to youtube.
link is in next reply
note that there are some "polished" areas. it is rubbing on something.
i thought the noise i was hearing while driving was the squeal of brake pad rattle shims.
took the brake apart, new pads, found a binding bottom slide pin.
wire wheeled it... new caliper grease... new pad... still squealed, thats when i decided to look at the reluctor ring.
it looks wet as i shot pb blaster in there

 

i couldn't find a video online showing this. So grampa had to learn to "upload"... haha
enjoy!

 

iownme, unfortunately, regardless of what you do with unplugging sensors on the rear end, you are going to have the restricted performance issue. The computer doesn't care why the sensor is not giving a signal, it just cares if one is there or not. Since it sounds like you have 2 bad sensors (the one in the video and one other one), atleast one of these will need to be fixed to get things to a more stable condition.

For the speedo to stop working, you have 3 possibilities: 1) 2 bad wheel speed sensors, 2) bad ABS module, or 3) bad instrument cluster. Because you are getting restricted performance, this kinda eliminates the instrument cluster.

Having the engine shut down on you is what is making things a bit interesting for me. Looking, this would really only leave 2 possibilities to relate the two together, a bad ignition switch or a bad inertia switch. But, if either of those were bad, you should be seeing a lot of other stuff cut off at the same time. If you were having a bad CAN bus issue, you should be seeing a lot of other things acting up and getting a lot of error codes. So, I am not suspecting a CAN bus issue.

Something else I have noticed in your postings is that you list both C1165 and C1175 codes. Are you getting both of these or did you simply correct an error from an earlier posting. If you are getting both of these, that would explain all the ABS/tranny/restricted performance issues. Still doesn't explain the engine cutting off though.

 

i did edit the 1175 to 1165 (i got confused.. lol)
BUT.. i have seen an 1175 stored at least once in the last week of regular code checking..
shortly i will recheck what codes came up from yesterdays 300 mile trip.
abs/dsc and mil were all on for the whole trip. except for a short period when the mil went off on its own.
brake and trans lights w/limp mode happened only twice i think.. first when i did an abrupt slow down from 70mph and next when i did a fast acceleration going downhill to pass a slower vehicle.
i did have that r/rear sensor unplugged the whole day.
also... for at least 6 months the abs has kicked in when not necessary when coming to a slow stop at low speed..maybe connected?
the abs and dsc lights have been intermittent for about same time frame.
cruise has worked almost most of the time.. but a few times hasn't... currently it has not been working at all since these new symptoms came along.
does this all point you in a direction?

 

Cruise will not work if it sees even one of the wheel speed sensors not working. So, that is simply a symptom of another problem (the rear wheel speed sensor). Same thing with the ABS seeming to kick in early, if the ABS module is seeing the one wheel spinning slower, it will bump up the pressure on the other wheels as the one it thinks is spinning too slow will be eased up. So, again, not something that I would be worrying about.

The brake light is what has me pondering if you don't have an instrument cluster issue. The brake light should only come on when the e-brake is applied. This whole circuit is composed of but a few components: e-brake switch, instrument cluster, and interconnecting wiring. If you unplug the e-brake switch and the brake light still comes on, then that is almost for sure the instrument cluster. I am not sure what you mean by trans light (ECU?). The check engine light will come on because you have the C1175 code (again, a symptom, not the problem). Kinda like the DSC light will be on because of the C1175 code.

So, from what I can tell, you either have a problem with the ABS module or the rear wheel speed sensor. You could probably try running jumper wires from the white/purple to white/green wires and a second jumper wire from the green/blue to the black/green wire. Keep the good speed sensor plugged in (feed the wires into the back of the plug) and unplug the bad wheel speed sensor (run the wires into the back of that plug). Make sure the wires are tied up good and go for say a 5 mile run. If your problem returns, then odds are you have bad wiring. If the problem goes away, then that confirms it is the cv shaft (you have already replaced the speed sensor, correct?).

Make sure that when you put the wires into the back of the plug, you use some tape to make sure the wires stay in there good. I would put a few wraps of electrical tape on the plug and over the wires to make sure they stay in good.

 

when i say trans light i mean the red cog with an exclamation mark inside.
is it not odd that cruise was working fine with the abs and dsc lights illuminated?... cruise only stopped working after the CEL illuminated 6 months later.
the "transmission" and brake lights illuminate and goes into limp mode when i do an abtupt stop or abrupt slow down.
yes, the right hand sensor is brand new.
a couple of times just the "trans" light has come on, when this happens it goes into limp but the speedo/milo still work...when the trans AND the brake light illuminate together then the speedo and milo stops working (pic attached)
when it goes into limp, if i shut ignition off and immediately restart then it stays in limp mode with trans and brake light illuminated, but if i shut off ignition and wait about 5 seconds it restarts normally with lights extinguished.
i cleared the codes before the journey and i just checked them.
i have
P1637
C1137
C1165
i just looked thru my notes and on 2 occasions in last 2 weeks i have also had C1175...once an actual code and once as a pending code.
so ii'm really confused.. lol
i can get an abs module local for $40 but its on a 2003. is it likely to work should i need one?

 

i now realise that the right rear outer cv joint is bad.
that is what is making all the noise.
i think rhis also might be causing the abs issues.
how difficult is replacing that joint, or is it easier to replace the entire half shaft?

 

The trick is finding just the reluctance ring. For the cost, save yourself a lot of time trying to find only the ring and replace the whole half shaft. The entire shaft is like $80 as I recall. NOt that bad. Replacing it is pretty straight forward. A lot of members here have replaced them.

 

thanks Thermo. im going to try replacing both rear half shafts as driver side is on its way out too i think.
then we can revisit the abs issue. tho i hope that will fix it

 

any update on this?

 

Iownme left this forum because of the mod Don B. You won't get an update.