I've only had one fan working for a while now. Read, read, and read some more and finally ordered a new controller.
Put it in yesterday and today the car overheated. It seems the new controller only spins the fans at very slow speed.
Tried the AC on coldest setting and no change. Tested both fans before plugging in new controller and they work full speed.
Getting ready to put old controller back in since it never overheated with it, but it's not correct either.
In addition to only spinning one fan it didn't seem to have any speed management, only full speed.
It also seems to stay on longer than I would expect after turning the car off. It does come on with AC.
The old controller has #'s 940.0040.03 & 301000299109 partial sticker, that one may be missing digits off the beginning.
New controller is beck/arnley part # BEC203-0291. The controller itself looks identical to the old but has #'s 3604-353 & 231127 on it.
This is on an 07 3.0
Edit... both controllers have the 4pin input, remember reading that cheap ones only have 3pins
Thoughts?

 

My understanding is that only the Gates controllers will work

 

You have to make sure the 4 pin receptor has metal contacts ineach female receptor. The cheap Asian ones do indeed have a 4 pin receptor, but lack the contact points in on female receptor as well as internally in the unit body they lack the appropriate wiring and relays.
The easiest for sure way to get the correct controller is buy a Gates FCM 134.

 

So I put the old controller back in and it did the same thing as the new controller, both fans slow speed 🙃
I unplugged the fan that wasn't working before and the other fan will run full speed with AC (and assume with temp) like before.
Being curious I reconnected the disconnected plug and unplugged the other plugged in fan. This fan also operates full speed with AC.
I'm assuming that the one wasn't properly connected before, either accidentally or purposely since it's been that way since I bought it.
So now I am back to square one, can't get both fans to run...
Anyone think it's possible both fans combined pull too much current causing this issue?
I'd hate to eat the cost of this beck/arnley controller then pay twice that for a gates and still be back to square one!

 

Just checked and I can confirm that the beck controller does have 4 metal pins and there are different resistance values between combinations of pins so they are all connected to something atleast.

 

Just to update, put new fans in and all is well. Maybe the Gates controller is capable of putting out more amps than the others and why it's recommended? But if you are having issues it's simple enough to test current draw. I had one fan that was pulling just over 10amps @ startup and neither old or new controller liked it. Removed the motor and tested windings (no shorts) cleaned everything up (brushes looked real good) and oiled bearings but it would still barely pop a 10a fuse starting. It's half the price to replace the fans than a gates controller...

 

So does that confirm that the Beck Arnley controller works?

 

So far, but need to put some miles on yet. I'm assuming the original controller is working as well but will need to swap at some point to see.

 

I presume since you haven't posted it is still working? Could you describe which wire goes to which pin on the beck controler please. I have a set of connectors to convert the old style controler to the new style but can't find any description of which wire goes where.

 

I'm still running the controller but wouldn't recommend it. The controller gets very hot in high ambient temps and cuts out. I may try moving it away from the already hot location it sits but currently I am only able to use it because high ambient temperatures are gone. I expect to drink the Kool aide and buy the Gates controller before next summer. I'll take a pic of the plug today or tomorrow when I have time...

 

It sounds like you've been through quite a bit trying to sort out your fan situation! If the new controller is only spinning the fans at a very slow speed and your car is overheating, it could be that the new controller is faulty or not properly calibrated for your setup, even if it looks identical to the old one.

Since you tested both fans before installing the new controller and they worked at full speed, it doesn’t seem like the fans themselves are the issue. The fact that the old controller ran just one fan at full speed and stayed on longer than expected might indicate a problem with the old controller's speed management as well.

Before putting the old controller back in, it might be worth checking a few things:

1. Wiring and Connections: Double-check that all the wiring and connections are secure and clean. Sometimes, a loose connection or corrosion can cause issues with fan speed control.
   
2. Temperature Sensor: Make sure the temperature sensor is working correctly. If the controller isn’t getting the right readings, it might not activate the fans at the right speed or time.
   
3. Controller Compatibility: Even though the new controller looks identical and has the 4-pin input, the internals might differ slightly. There could be a compatibility issue with the Beck/Arnley part in your specific setup.
   

If everything checks out and the new controller still doesn’t perform properly, going back to the old controller could be a temporary fix, but keep in mind it may still lead to uneven cooling and potential wear on the single fan running at full speed. You might want to look for a higher-quality replacement controller that matches the exact specifications of your original part.

Also, be cautious with cheaper controllers, as you've mentioned about the 3-pin vs. 4-pin difference. The right one should be 4-pin like your setup to ensure proper operation.

Hope this helps you figure it out!

Ryan
https://gpstrackershop.com

 

I didn't forget you but when I went to get a pic I noticed the connector was aftermarket with all black wires. Mine is an 07 so not sure why the original was cut off. Anyway, finally got time to pull back some loom and tape for wire color. The green/white wire goes to part of the connector with the release tab and the blue/white wire to the opposite end. The + & - supply wires were further down loom then I could see...

 

Blue/white wire is the PWM control signal that denotes the fan speed and whether just one or both fans are required to operate. (140Hz positive signal, ranging from 7% to 95% duty cycle to moderate fans).
White/Green wire is a EMS relay switched supply - only a 5A fuse, so just a control/logic supply to the controller.
Brown/Green wire is the main 12v supply to the fan controller which is via a 40A fuse.

 

Thanks folks. I finally got the car to the local Jag GURU and they are working it out.

 

They tell me that the gates module will not work as it makes the fans run all the time. I am at a loss as to where to turn.

 

The Gates module by all accounts is a suitable direct replacement, but if you have reservations then you might want to hunt around some wreckers yards to see if you can pick up a working second hand module from a donor car.

 

There are tons of suppliers that use a gates part # as a reference but not a gates part.
I don't recall hearing anyone with an actual gates controller from a reliable source with a problem.

Having said that I don't think I have ever overheated with what I believe is a cheap controller.
It only has one speed, but comes on&off as needed.YMMV

 

The local guru is susposed to be the be all end all Jag shop in Tucson. Color me not impressed at this point. I will probably pick up the car tomorrow and have a little more discussion on what they did and didn't do.

I have read that if the pulse width modulated signal is not between 93 and 7% the fans will run constantly at full tilt. Can anyone confirm that? That would seem a prudent fail safe mode.

Does anyone know if the FCM drives the fans with a straight DC voltage or a PWM signal?

Living in Tucson AZ where the ambient of 115F or more ambient is not unheard of I don't need a temperature solution. I guess as an extreme measure you could insulate the module a bit and put a peltier junction on it to keep it cool under extreme conditions.

As I understand the purpose of speed control etc is to gain a little fuel efficiency. I don't think that is worth the effort or complexity. What can you tell me about the module you are using which only runs the fans on high? I think I could easily live with that.

 

The controller that runs on high was in the car when I bought it. The part #'s are in the 1st post. I'm assuming it's one of the cheap ebay/amazon controllers because of how others described their operation. It only runs both fans one speed but it has never overheated the car. Unfortunately the Beck Arny controller overheats and shuts itself down along with the fans and the car will overheat. I really need more time with both controllers in summer heat, unfortunately thats 7months away for me...

 

Thanks. I was able to confirm that the fans run on sraight DC so no problem driving them if you can't get the contol module working.
I have an early style contorler on the way and will see if that works. If that works I will probably try another Gates and see what happens. I really want to go to the new style module and not stay on the treadmill of replacing early styles as they fail. There is another option of trying to repair the old module. I have seen instructions and may try that. The guys tried two controllers and could not get the fans to turn off while trying to drive it with a PWM generator. Who knows if that created a problem or what. It makes no sense that a Gates module will not work. Time will tell. Stay tuned.