hey guys,

Here is the story,

I'm driving 70 mph on the freeway in the rain to take my MCAT test. Suddenly out of nowhere my rear wheels are locked (i found out after, obviously) and it felt like somebody is applying brake while car is at 70mph. I immediately put it in neutral (manual transmission) and thought this might be a tire so i tried to pull over and next thing i know it spin out of control and almost killed me.

When tow truck was pulling my car on its back, front wheels were moving while rear wheels were stuck and dragging.

There are no lights or warning signs, two years ago i did replace rear differential oil. And recently there was differential fluid (this is between two real wheel tires, right?) leaking for a while but since I was studying for test of life I decided to take it looked over afterwards.

Sorry for the long story, but thought it was important. What is the problem here fellas?

Thanks in advance

 

wow...glad u made it back here

 

Near miss. Good to hear you weren't injured.

Graham

 

Wow, scary stuff!

Do we know what the issue was??

 

Three questions before going on: first, if the rear wheels are jacked up and the car is in neutral, does turning one wheel forwards, rotate the other the wheel backwards, smoothly/quietly? Second, what oil did you put in the diff and third, bearing in mind you know it's been leaking, how much is there in there now? (As there's no drain plug, the only way to establish how much is in there is to note how much it takes to top it up to the fill/level plug and subtract that figure from 1.2 litres/1.3 quarts (The total capacity)

 

1> we didn't try that. But when he was pulling the car on truck , there was a brief moment where front wheels spin freely forward while rear wheels were still locked
2> I put royal purple ( i don't remeber exact #, but it was recommended on here)
2> I have no idea, it was leaking very bad, my parking lot is full of oil spots. When i changed it i put 1.2 L in there.

 

No idea, shops will open on tuesday.

I think I forgot to mention, engine works fine, I try to rove it (is that how you say it) It did, and when tried to move it felt like front wheels were trying hard while rear wheels were just didn't do anything thus car didn't move.

 

thanks guys !!!
It was bad day for everyone, after the tow truck hooked my car up and we were leaving one of his tires got ****ed up,

sparing details, there were other same weird **** was going on after that too

 

Maikal, I don't want to sound like a bad record, but if I had to take a guess, it sounds like your rear differential is toast. That or a bearing seized at a wheel. That is if you can put the rear of the car up on jack stands (both wheels off of the ground), block the front wheels, then attempt to turn one of the rear wheels. Watch the other wheel as you do this. If the wheel will not move, then odds are you trashed the differential. If 1 wheel will wobble some, but the other is locked up tight, then odds are it is a fried wheel bearing on the side that will not move at all. Granted, if you are thinking that it is a fried differential, I would recommend disconnecting one end of the rear drive shaft and repeating the wheel turn test. If the wheels turn now, your problem is in the transfer case, not the rear end. But, based on the fact that you are talking about a rear differential leak, it is more than likely there, not a transfer case.

 

I don't have all the resource here, I'll have my mechanic do this.
I'll update her later.

Btw how much money this will cost me? I know we haven't figured out the problem but still (if me ordering parts save me money and such)

 

That was an unpleasant experience,good thing you made it there without any drama

 

maikal, if it is a wheel bearing, you are probably looking at about $100 for a bearing and then another 2-3 hours of labor. So, out the door for under $500. If it is a rear differential, you can probably get a used differential for around $500 and then another 3 hours or so to replace the differential. So, out the door for under $1000. If you are looking at a transfer case, most people have been spending about $1500 for a used case and about $3000 for a new case installed. Now, these are only estimates based on what I think an average shop would charge. What your actual shop will charge is hard to say as many factors come in to this.

 

Thanks

I started to give it try today to see if rear wheel are still locked up. I drove like five feet before rear wheels locked and car halted crazily.

Just updating..

 

Maikal, based on that, you are looking at a gear issue. So, transfer case or rear differential. Based on the leak, I would be looking at the rear differential.

 

I would point towards your transfer case. If you lift the back wheels off the ground and they both spin, then your transfer case is the issue.

 

I called Jaguar headquarters to ask similar questions, and I received this letter below. I don't know if I should sign this, or not any suggestion. (he also wants my car inspected by dealership too)



I certify that I am registered owner/long term lessee of the vehicle referenced above. I am requesting that Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC ("JLRNA") read out certain electronic information that may be stored in the restraint control or power train module of the above referenced vehicle. I understand that these modules are capable of recording detailed data which may include information regarding the use of the restraint systems (including use of seat belts by the driver and passengers), information about the performance of various systems and modules in the vehicle, and the information related to engine, throttle, steering, brake or other system status (data recorded varies by vehicle model). This data could potentially include information regarding how driver operates the vehicle. I understand that this information may be stored during regular operation or in a crash or near crash event.

I understand that due to technical problems, physical damage or other reasons, some or all of the data may not be recorded or retrievable. I understand that there is a possibility that the restraint control/power train module may be damaged in the process of fulfilling this request and I relieve JLRNA from any responsibility for any such damage. I acknowledge that JLRNA has no responsibility for loss or damage during shipping and handling of the restraint control/power train module.

I understand that in addition to myself and JLRNA having access to the information, JLRNA may provide access to the module or the information contained in the module to suppliers, dealers, or agents/service providers in connection with the readout and analysis of the data. I understand that JLRNA may also be required to provide the information to others who demonstrate sufficient legal authority to receive it.

I acknowledge that I have read and understand the terms set forth above and agree to them, and that I enter this agreement freely with full authority and right to do so.

 

Geesh ~ those two sentences buried in there: " I understand that there is a possibility that the restraint control/power train module may be damaged in the process of fulfilling this request and I relieve JLRNA from any responsibility for any such damage. I acknowledge that JLRNA has no responsibility for loss or damage during shipping and handling of the restraint control/power train module." are enough to make anyone wary.

That's like going to a mechanic and having him tell you "Sure! I'll open the hood and start reefing around, and it is quite likely I'll break something because s*%t happens; but if anything breaks it ain't my fault and you'll have to pay me to fix anything I bust!"

Too bad you're working on becoming a Doctor: a Law Degree would be helpful here. (By the way, how did you do on the test?)

I'd call them back and discuss the situation a bit more. That kind of disclaimer is just too broad. "I acknowledge that JLRNA has no responsibility for loss or damage during shipping..." would be about as far as I would go with their deniability, because simple shipping insurance can cover that. But to include "handling" is beyond the pale: some tech drops it on the floor and goes "Oops. Oh, no worry - not our problem I broke it".

On the plus side of the equation, it does sound like they want to help you!

Please keep the forum posted on the matter. You can even use your participation in this forum as a bit of leverage. Feel free to mention someone (me) said "How they resolve your situation will weigh heavily on my decision to purchase a new Jag or Land Rover."

Best of luck!

 

I would be dollars to donuts that your read diff was leaking and then it siezed. They need oil to run! When they blow up, the pieces jam themselves together and can lock the wheels. Obviously I am new to jag, but I have seen it happen in land rovers.

No need to check the data recorder or anything like that IMHO.

 

Ok, so what I am taking away from all of this is that the rear differential should be checked on a routine basis? Thanks for all of the great comments and helpful tips and conversation.

 

Folks Facts are in:

According to jaguar dealership, some amateur (probably me, two years ago I changed rear differential fluid) had work on it recently and some bolts were left loose (which is bullshit cause the oil leakage started recently plus I followed the guidelines which I got it from here and you only open it top knob to suck the old oil out and put new one in using some kind of pump. Leakage may be due to gasket breakage or whatever according to my local guy) and quoted me about $3400

I called my local guy, his guy at Star motors quote me $450 for 65000 miles for the part + $ 500 labors and gear fluid and stuff

So any other recommendations? and is this worth going to lawyers office?

Thank you all as always